Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #1  

reasley

Silver Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
109
Note that this procedure was done on a 2000 4300 Compact Utility Tractor, but should be generalizable to many other contemporary John Deere models.

Tools needed: Hydraulic press; 10 mm socket for hub bolts, seal installer, depth gauge, brass brush to remove old sealing material from mating surfaces, Allen wrench/socket for axle drain plug, flat-faced chisel, hammer; razor knife, large external snap ring pliers, torque wrench.

Parts needed: Seals, John Deere Sealant (TY6304; this is Permatex 515), axle fluid, solvent, wheel bearing grease.


Instructions:


1. Pressure wash wheels and hubs thoroughly.


2. Lift tractor wheels off ground, place jack stands under axle.


3. Remove wheels.


4. Run razor knife along groove where flanges meet to break paint/sealer bond.


5. Remove 10 mm hub bolts.


6. Carefully break loose hub assembly by alternately tapping recesses at 3 & 9 o'clock positions.


7. When the assembly has protruded approximately 1/4", you should be able to wiggle by hand and remove -- careful -- it is heavy, probably 30 pounds?


8. Put hub assembly gear-side-up in hydraulic press, with hub free to be expelled.


9. Remove snap ring.


10. Carefully press hub shaft, first through inner bearing, then gear. When gear is free, everything should drop out at that point.


11. Remove inner bearing, gear, and large spacer. Pick up hub assembly and place on workbench, flange side down. Set hub/shaft assembly aside.


12. Carefully tap out outer bearing from assembly (note that it will probably drop out after initial movement).


13. Remove old seal.


14. With brass wire brush, remove old sealer/rust/etc. from both mating flanges (on hub assembly and on axle assembly on tractor).


15. Separate new two-piece seal and set aside inner part.


16. With solvent, prepare outer edge of outer seal and receiving surface on hub assembly for sealer.


17. wipe a thin coat of sealer on outer hub seal outer surface.


18. Using JD seal installer, install outer seal to a depth of 0.060" (see picture on "Installation Instructions" that come with seal.


19. (Optional; I did this) Using wheel bearing grease, form a 1/4" of grease around outer seal at inner edge. Also, coat inner surface of seal with grease.


20. Clean hub/shaft and lay on workbench, shaft side up.


21. Carefully lay hub housing on top of hub, with shaft coming through opening. Center housing on top of hub.


22. (Optional: I did this) Using wheel bearing grease, liberally coat "inside" of outer seal from inside of housing. [In other words, housing is laying on hub, and the shaft is protruding through the housing.] Also, coat "mating surface of "inner seal" with wheel bearing grease.


23. Press inner seal on to shaft mating surface until "seated" with outer seal.


24. Lubricate both mating surfaces (shaft and bearing) and then install outer bearing.


25. Center and place spacer on top of outer bearing. Lubricate mating surface of spacer.


26. Lubricate mating surface of gear. Carefully place gear on shaft, ensuring that its outer bearing surface mates with spacer. Press just enough to start gear's descent onto shaft, but enough that a portion of shaft is protruding for inner bearing.


27. Lubricate mating surface of inner bearing. Carefully press on inner bearing until just enough clearance is provided for snap ring to seat. [Note that this will be an iterative process -- you should press and check several times to make certain that you don't "overshoot" the snap ring clearance.]


28. Install snap ring.


29. Form bead of sealer at the inner part of the "L" on the flange. Let sit for 1-2 minutes.


30. Install hub assembly on axle assembly. [ The assembly may simply slide on automatically, but more likely, you will have to push, or lightly tap, around its circumference until it begins to seat. When it is seated enough for the bolts to be started, "draw it in" until it meets the other mating surface.


31. Torque these bolts to 22 - 27 foot pounds, beginning at bottom-most bolt and then alternating around that bolt until you end at the top.


32. Install wheel.


33. Refill axle with oil (4.1 quarts capacity). I intentionally under-fill, then drive to get it "settled," then re-check and top off.


Richard Easley

Waco, Texas
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #2  
Nice write-up Richard as usual:thumbsup:
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #3  
Yeah, great write up. Only pictures would make it better for the less imaginative like me :)

Could the pressing part be done with a monster vise? does it take a great deal of pressure to remove and seat the seals?

Is there a way to save a post? So when I get around to doing mine I don't have to ask again.

JB.
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #4  
Subscribe to the post. I hope I don't need it in the future but you never know. My 4310 is an 04 with 540 hours on it. I check the front axle all the time after all the threads about leaks. So far no problems
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #5  
I guess I'm subscribed by replying? Then I just search my own posts?

JB
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #6  
I guess I'm subscribed by replying? Then I just search my own posts?

JB

Yes. You can also make a folder and add it into that. I have one for my projects and one for favorite threads. basically you check the box next to the post (all in your control panel) and add them to whatever folder you want.
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #7  
Thanks, after 6 years I still don't know my way around the control panel :eek:

The odd thing is mine stopped leaking, not a drop ?

JB.
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Yeah, great write up. Only pictures would make it better for the less imaginative like me :)

Could the pressing part be done with a monster vise? does it take a great deal of pressure to remove and seat the seals?

Is there a way to save a post? So when I get around to doing mine I don't have to ask again.

JB.

Good morning, JB --

The press is not needed for the seals -- those are easy; the press is needed to remove/replace the inner (next to the tractor) bearing and the gear. No way one could do it with any size vice *without* the risk of "canting" the bearing while installing, removing. If you ever have to do it, spend the $100 on the Harbor Freight press on sale, and you will find that you will use it for many other tasks, too . . .

Richard Easley
Waco, Texas
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #9  
Nice write up! I am sure I will have to come back to this one day.
 
   / Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals #10  
Yeah I'm still just watching mine. The right side was getting a little wet, but now is dry.

JB
 
 
Top