Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. #1
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    109

    Default Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

    Note that this procedure was done on a 2000 4300 Compact Utility Tractor, but should be generalizable to many other contemporary John Deere models.

    Tools needed: Hydraulic press; 10 mm socket for hub bolts, seal installer, depth gauge, brass brush to remove old sealing material from mating surfaces, Allen wrench/socket for axle drain plug, flat-faced chisel, hammer; razor knife, large external snap ring pliers, torque wrench.

    Parts needed: Seals, John Deere Sealant (TY6304; this is Permatex 515), axle fluid, solvent, wheel bearing grease.


    Instructions:


    1. Pressure wash wheels and hubs thoroughly.


    2. Lift tractor wheels off ground, place jack stands under axle.


    3. Remove wheels.


    4. Run razor knife along groove where flanges meet to break paint/sealer bond.


    5. Remove 10 mm hub bolts.


    6. Carefully break loose hub assembly by alternately tapping recesses at 3 & 9 o'clock positions.


    7. When the assembly has protruded approximately 1/4", you should be able to wiggle by hand and remove -- careful -- it is heavy, probably 30 pounds?


    8. Put hub assembly gear-side-up in hydraulic press, with hub free to be expelled.


    9. Remove snap ring.


    10. Carefully press hub shaft, first through inner bearing, then gear. When gear is free, everything should drop out at that point.


    11. Remove inner bearing, gear, and large spacer. Pick up hub assembly and place on workbench, flange side down. Set hub/shaft assembly aside.


    12. Carefully tap out outer bearing from assembly (note that it will probably drop out after initial movement).


    13. Remove old seal.


    14. With brass wire brush, remove old sealer/rust/etc. from both mating flanges (on hub assembly and on axle assembly on tractor).


    15. Separate new two-piece seal and set aside inner part.


    16. With solvent, prepare outer edge of outer seal and receiving surface on hub assembly for sealer.


    17. wipe a thin coat of sealer on outer hub seal outer surface.


    18. Using JD seal installer, install outer seal to a depth of 0.060" (see picture on "Installation Instructions" that come with seal.


    19. (Optional; I did this) Using wheel bearing grease, form a 1/4" of grease around outer seal at inner edge. Also, coat inner surface of seal with grease.


    20. Clean hub/shaft and lay on workbench, shaft side up.


    21. Carefully lay hub housing on top of hub, with shaft coming through opening. Center housing on top of hub.


    22. (Optional: I did this) Using wheel bearing grease, liberally coat "inside" of outer seal from inside of housing. [In other words, housing is laying on hub, and the shaft is protruding through the housing.] Also, coat "mating surface of "inner seal" with wheel bearing grease.


    23. Press inner seal on to shaft mating surface until "seated" with outer seal.


    24. Lubricate both mating surfaces (shaft and bearing) and then install outer bearing.


    25. Center and place spacer on top of outer bearing. Lubricate mating surface of spacer.


    26. Lubricate mating surface of gear. Carefully place gear on shaft, ensuring that its outer bearing surface mates with spacer. Press just enough to start gear's descent onto shaft, but enough that a portion of shaft is protruding for inner bearing.


    27. Lubricate mating surface of inner bearing. Carefully press on inner bearing until just enough clearance is provided for snap ring to seat. [Note that this will be an iterative process -- you should press and check several times to make certain that you don't "overshoot" the snap ring clearance.]


    28. Install snap ring.


    29. Form bead of sealer at the inner part of the "L" on the flange. Let sit for 1-2 minutes.


    30. Install hub assembly on axle assembly. [ The assembly may simply slide on automatically, but more likely, you will have to push, or lightly tap, around its circumference until it begins to seat. When it is seated enough for the bolts to be started, "draw it in" until it meets the other mating surface.


    31. Torque these bolts to 22 - 27 foot pounds, beginning at bottom-most bolt and then alternating around that bolt until you end at the top.


    32. Install wheel.


    33. Refill axle with oil (4.1 quarts capacity). I intentionally under-fill, then drive to get it "settled," then re-check and top off.


    Richard Easley

    Waco, Texas

  2. #2
    Advertiser kennyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    11,871
    Location
    Westminster, MD
    Tractor
    John Deere 4110, 455

    Default Re: Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

    Nice write-up Richard as usual
    KennyD
    www.boltonhooks.com



    Bolt On Grab Hooks, Weld On Grab Hooks, Specialty Chain Accessories, Specialty Hydraulic Components.

    Simple JDParts Tutorial HERE

    Visit our YouTube Channel

  3. #3
    Super Member JB4310's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    5,645
    Location
    Central CT
    Tractor
    J.D. 4310 E-hydro

    Default Re: Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

    Yeah, great write up. Only pictures would make it better for the less imaginative like me

    Could the pressing part be done with a monster vise? does it take a great deal of pressure to remove and seat the seals?

    Is there a way to save a post? So when I get around to doing mine I don't have to ask again.

    JB.
    JD 4310; E hydro, 300CX, 48 BH, 60" box, 72" rake, 72" rear blade, cast pallet forks, 48", 61"HD & 73" high volume bucket.
    FORD 1700; 2 WD, 2600 hrs.
    JD 320; Hydra lift, 48" deck and 48" snow blade.
    2007 Dodge Ram 3500, Cummins 6.7L, Aisin 6 speed, 9ft utility body.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member YesDeere's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,135
    Location
    Merland
    Tractor
    04/4310

    Default

    Subscribe to the post. I hope I don't need it in the future but you never know. My 4310 is an 04 with 540 hours on it. I check the front axle all the time after all the threads about leaks. So far no problems

  5. #5
    Super Member JB4310's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    5,645
    Location
    Central CT
    Tractor
    J.D. 4310 E-hydro

    Default Re: Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

    I guess I'm subscribed by replying? Then I just search my own posts?

    JB
    JD 4310; E hydro, 300CX, 48 BH, 60" box, 72" rake, 72" rear blade, cast pallet forks, 48", 61"HD & 73" high volume bucket.
    FORD 1700; 2 WD, 2600 hrs.
    JD 320; Hydra lift, 48" deck and 48" snow blade.
    2007 Dodge Ram 3500, Cummins 6.7L, Aisin 6 speed, 9ft utility body.

  6. #6
    Advertiser kennyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    11,871
    Location
    Westminster, MD
    Tractor
    John Deere 4110, 455

    Default Re: Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

    Quote Originally Posted by JB4310 View Post
    I guess I'm subscribed by replying? Then I just search my own posts?

    JB
    Yes. You can also make a folder and add it into that. I have one for my projects and one for favorite threads. basically you check the box next to the post (all in your control panel) and add them to whatever folder you want.
    KennyD
    www.boltonhooks.com



    Bolt On Grab Hooks, Weld On Grab Hooks, Specialty Chain Accessories, Specialty Hydraulic Components.

    Simple JDParts Tutorial HERE

    Visit our YouTube Channel

  7. #7
    Super Member JB4310's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    5,645
    Location
    Central CT
    Tractor
    J.D. 4310 E-hydro

    Default Re: Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

    Thanks, after 6 years I still don't know my way around the control panel

    The odd thing is mine stopped leaking, not a drop ?

    JB.
    JD 4310; E hydro, 300CX, 48 BH, 60" box, 72" rake, 72" rear blade, cast pallet forks, 48", 61"HD & 73" high volume bucket.
    FORD 1700; 2 WD, 2600 hrs.
    JD 320; Hydra lift, 48" deck and 48" snow blade.
    2007 Dodge Ram 3500, Cummins 6.7L, Aisin 6 speed, 9ft utility body.

  8. #8
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    109

    Default Re: Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

    Quote Originally Posted by JB4310 View Post
    Yeah, great write up. Only pictures would make it better for the less imaginative like me

    Could the pressing part be done with a monster vise? does it take a great deal of pressure to remove and seat the seals?

    Is there a way to save a post? So when I get around to doing mine I don't have to ask again.

    JB.
    Good morning, JB --

    The press is not needed for the seals -- those are easy; the press is needed to remove/replace the inner (next to the tractor) bearing and the gear. No way one could do it with any size vice *without* the risk of "canting" the bearing while installing, removing. If you ever have to do it, spend the $100 on the Harbor Freight press on sale, and you will find that you will use it for many other tasks, too . . .

    Richard Easley
    Waco, Texas

  9. #9
    Gold Member JordanFTW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    305
    Location
    Southern Maryland
    Tractor
    Deer 4300, LT180, LT160, Bobcat 763

    Default Re: Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

    Nice write up! I am sure I will have to come back to this one day.

  10. #10
    Super Member JB4310's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    5,645
    Location
    Central CT
    Tractor
    J.D. 4310 E-hydro

    Default Re: Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

    Yeah I'm still just watching mine. The right side was getting a little wet, but now is dry.

    JB
    JD 4310; E hydro, 300CX, 48 BH, 60" box, 72" rake, 72" rear blade, cast pallet forks, 48", 61"HD & 73" high volume bucket.
    FORD 1700; 2 WD, 2600 hrs.
    JD 320; Hydra lift, 48" deck and 48" snow blade.
    2007 Dodge Ram 3500, Cummins 6.7L, Aisin 6 speed, 9ft utility body.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. John Deere - 2,800 Tractors Recalled
    By dullpain in forum John Deere Owning/Operating
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-31-2006, 01:18 AM
  2. John Deere - 2,800 Tractors Recalled
    By dullpain in forum John Deere Owning/Operating
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-30-2006, 06:51 AM
  3. John Deere 4010 54" front blade
    By KAPowell in forum Attachments
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-09-2004, 02:40 AM
  4. John Deere 4400 problems
    By Anonymous Poster in forum John Deere Owning/Operating
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-15-2002, 10:07 PM
  5. New Xtra Armor Kit From John Deere for 4000 Series
    By Muhammad in forum John Deere Owning/Operating
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 07-09-2001, 10:12 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.