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  1. #1
    Bronze Member
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    Jul 2006
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    72
    Tractor
    John Deere 2520

    Default 2520 & 72" MMM - Mower Blade Change

    Hi Guys & Happy Fathers Day!

    I've read some posts about people inquiring how much of a hassle it is to remove a 72" mmm on a 2520/2720. I had to do a mower blade change today and wanted to share. Unless you have a jack, you will want to keep the loader on. To get the deck out, the front tires need to be lifted off of the ground. You do not need the bucket on as the loader itself is capable of making the front wheels airborne. I had the bucket on today as I was moving mulch and left it on to wash it too.

    The Removal Process:
    #1. With the 3pt hitch raised, shut off the tractor. Get off and pull the pins on the rear wheels on the mower deck and turn them 90 degrees so the deck can roll out from under the tractor to the right if you were sitting on the seat. Put the pins back in when they are in this position. Pull the pins and take the springs off of the front wheels on the mower deck. Like the rear wheels, turn the front wheels 90 degrees as well and put the pins back in.
    #2. Lower the 3pt hitch all the way and pull the two pins attaching the mower deck to the 3pt hich arms.
    #3. Remove the mmm driveshaft.
    #4. Under the front of the tractor remove the front mower deck attaching part.
    #5. Start the tractor and raise the front wheels with the loader. Once the front end is in the air, turn the steering wheel so that the front tires turn left.
    #6. Shut off the tractor and slide the deck out to the right hand side if sitting on the seat. Be careful not to get too much momentum as the deck weights approx. 448lbs.

    This whole process takes about 5 minutes and requires no tools.
    Once the deck is out, (this is the nice part, but heaving lifting part) lift the mower deck up and once you get it to a point, it will balance itself so that you can scrape/clean the underside of the deck and remove the blades (see photo). If it is windy out, I recomend that you raise the bucket over the deck and run a safety chain from the bucket to the mower deck so that the wind will not blow it over. To remove the blades, you do need a tools. I use a torque wrench with socket and a block of hardwood to remove my blades. Once the blades are off, I sharpen them right in the bucket while clamping them in at a comfortable height (see photo).

    While the deck is off, this is a great time to grease the 2520. There are 2 fittings under the right floor board, 3 under the left, 1 under the front of the tractor and 1 on each front wheel.
    8 grease fittings total on the 2520 tractor I've found.
    The 72" mower deck has 11 grease fittings.

    When reinstalling the sharpened mower blades, torque them on to 94 ft.-lbs.
    Once the greasing, sharpening & washing is done put the deck on in the reverse order.
    The 2520 in the photo's will be 5 years old this August & hit 360.0 hours today.
    The 2520 is the smallest Deere that you can fit the 72"mmm to. This is a beast of a deck. For those of you concerned that the 2520 may not have the HP to turn this sucker, you need not be. This tractor can turn mower this till the cows come home and the 2520 is not underpowered. I've cut grass, woods & marsh grass with this. I've done things with this mower that should only be done with a brush hog (but I don't have one). I've never noticed any scalping issues and this gives a fantastic cut when running the 2520 at 2600 rpm (rated speed)
    I couldn't image life without it as I cut about 5 acres with it each week.
    I couldn't image life with a smaller deck either!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -photo-1-jpg   -photo-2-jpg   -photo-3-jpg   -photo-4-jpg   -photo-5-jpg  

    John Deere 2520 w/R3's
    200CX FEL - 61" bucket & 48" Frontier AL1240F Forks, 72" MMM, Hyd. Dump MCS, Bearcat 73554 PTO Chipper/Shredder, 54" Quick Hitch Front Mt. Snow Blower

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Runner's Avatar
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    May 2007
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    1,682
    Location
    Missouri
    Tractor
    John Deere 2520, 1989 John Deere 185, 1960 Panzer T70B

    Default Re: 2520 & 72" MMM - Mower Blade Change

    Excellent write-up, thanks for posting.

    I guess if you don't have the loader on, you can just jack up the front end? That's what I usually do with my lawn tractor to facilitate removal/installation of the mower deck.
    Runner

  3. #3
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    72
    Tractor
    John Deere 2520

    Default

    Hi Runner.
    Yes, without the loader on you'd need a jack. The top post of the front left mower deck pivot wheel hits a shaft underneath the tractor.
    Like he said on the movie Airplane...it needs more clearance Clarence!

    The only real pain in the patute is reaching under the tractor to re-attach the mower deck shaft. It's always the last step and I never look forward to it. I don't know why Deere won't make the 72D autoconnect deck for the 2000 series? Think about it...this series is in my mind is a series of lawnmowers that can do tractor work too. The 3000 series is a tractor that can cut the grass too. For me I need to cut 5 cleared acres with some trees and of course fall cleanup with the leaves. When I purchased my 2520 I also priced a 3520. For $7000 more for 3520/300cx, I just didn't see the 3520 doing my priority work any faster and it's way larger.
    This is why I got the 2520, and it's one heck of a little machine.
    John Deere 2520 w/R3's
    200CX FEL - 61" bucket & 48" Frontier AL1240F Forks, 72" MMM, Hyd. Dump MCS, Bearcat 73554 PTO Chipper/Shredder, 54" Quick Hitch Front Mt. Snow Blower

  4. #4
    Gold Member PCABE5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    290
    Location
    NW Wisconsin
    Tractor
    JD 2520

    Default Re: 2520 & 72" MMM - Mower Blade Change

    I raise my deck, run it up on car ramps, set the park brake and zip the blades off with the air wrench.
    2012 JD 2720 | 72" MMM | Curtis Hard Cab | 200CX FEL 73" bucket | JD 72" Rr Blade | Michigan Suspension Seat | SpeeCo Q-Hitch | JD Ballast-Box | 5ft King Kutter Brush Cutter |

  5. #5
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    68

    Default Re: 2520 & 72" MMM - Mower Blade Change

    Quote Originally Posted by Runner View Post
    Excellent write-up, thanks for posting.

    I guess if you don't have the loader on, you can just jack up the front end? That's what I usually do with my lawn tractor to facilitate removal/installation of the mower deck.
    You can also just remove the front left wheel (of the mower deck) and roll it out on the three remaining as per the insruction manual.

    Dan

  6. #6
    Gold Member PCABE5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    290
    Location
    NW Wisconsin
    Tractor
    JD 2520

    Default

    How easy is your left front wheel to remove? Mine has to have the pins hit out and the wheel will slide with a 3lb sledge. Not easy to remove. So I removed it once and never again. Either the loader or a jack is a must.
    2012 JD 2720 | 72" MMM | Curtis Hard Cab | 200CX FEL 73" bucket | JD 72" Rr Blade | Michigan Suspension Seat | SpeeCo Q-Hitch | JD Ballast-Box | 5ft King Kutter Brush Cutter |

  7. #7
    Elite Member zzvyb6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    2,673
    Location
    michigan
    Tractor
    jd 1070

    Default Re: 2520 & 72" MMM - Mower Blade Change

    To change the motor oil, you remove the engine, put it on a stand. drop the oil pan and pour it slowly thru a metric funnel into a twist on glass bird feeder. Then you use a tablespoon to hand dip Mobil 1 into the pressure washed crankcase. Put the motor back in and turn the tractor upside down to remove the old filter. Use some of the old oil to seal the new filter so as to start the molecular chain reaction amongst the hydrocarbon molecules of the fresh oil.

    Invert the tractor and start it at WOT until oil pressure comes up or a bearing squeals.

    You have a loader for Heavens sake. Shove the bucket down and raise the front end up. Jack stand recommended in case your valve leaks. Shove a 2 x 4 block between the blades and the housing and put your breaker bar to work. Use a 6 point socket and pound it on if the bolt corners are nicked from hitting those cast iron latte cups on the driveway shoulder.

    Best to have a spare set of blades on hand to put the spares on while you are in position for removing the dull ones. Sure, clean the underside of the deck up. If this process takes more then 15 minutes of your time, then drop the step in which you use the funnel. Just pour it into a gallon milk jug.
    There is no "I" in team, but there is a "Me" if you want to jumble it up a bit...

  8. #8
    Bronze Member
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    Jul 2006
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    72
    Tractor
    John Deere 2520

    Default Re: 2520 & 72" MMM - Mower Blade Change

    Quote Originally Posted by zzvyb6 View Post
    To change the motor oil, you remove the engine, put it on a stand. drop the oil pan and pour it slowly thru a metric funnel into a twist on glass bird feeder. Then you use a tablespoon to hand dip Mobil 1 into the pressure washed crankcase. Put the motor back in and turn the tractor upside down to remove the old filter. Use some of the old oil to seal the new filter so as to start the molecular chain reaction amongst the hydrocarbon molecules of the fresh oil.

    Invert the tractor and start it at WOT until oil pressure comes up or a bearing squeals.

    You have a loader for Heavens sake. Shove the bucket down and raise the front end up. Jack stand recommended in case your valve leaks. Shove a 2 x 4 block between the blades and the housing and put your breaker bar to work. Use a 6 point socket and pound it on if the bolt corners are nicked from hitting those cast iron latte cups on the driveway shoulder.

    Best to have a spare set of blades on hand to put the spares on while you are in position for removing the dull ones. Sure, clean the underside of the deck up. If this process takes more then 15 minutes of your time, then drop the step in which you use the funnel. Just pour it into a gallon milk jug.
    Now that is some funny stuff right there.
    I have to agree, I'm not taking my tractor apart to change mower blades.
    If I didn't have a FEL, I'd go get a 2-ton jack....Sears sells one for $29.99.
    I have three sets of blades for my tractor and change my blades 3-4 times per year.
    I am coming up on owning my machine for 5 years and have changed my blades between 13-17 times now. That's alot of taking tires on and off and I have better things to do with my time...exercise for one - 12oz curls
    John Deere 2520 w/R3's
    200CX FEL - 61" bucket & 48" Frontier AL1240F Forks, 72" MMM, Hyd. Dump MCS, Bearcat 73554 PTO Chipper/Shredder, 54" Quick Hitch Front Mt. Snow Blower

  9. #9
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    267

    Default Re: 2520 & 72" MMM - Mower Blade Change

    A familar procedure even for a 755 60'' mower deck. On the 60"deck I think you just removed the left front mower wheel then you didn't have to use the fel lifting part. Or was it the back wheel?
    Deere Z 997, 2320 with 62D MMM, 3520 cab 300CX FEL with grapple bucket, RMM, Gator HPX cab with snow plow blade

  10. #10
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    7

    Default Re: 2520 & 72" MMM - Mower Blade Change

    I've recently been working on cleaning up an old 60" mower deck for my 755. I'm having some major trouble getting the blades off of the unit. Can anyone lend some insight on what the proper procedure for doing this is?

    I've got the deck standing up on end. After attempting to loosen the bolt that's holding the blade in place, it spun the giant nut off the other end near the pulley. Am I doing something completely wrong? Should that bold then slide out through the pulley and cup shaped dome on the underside of the deck?

    Any help would be much appreciated!

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