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  1. #1
    New Member
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    Jul 2011
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    1
    Tractor
    John Deere 4320

    Default Remove sickle from sickle bar

    We have a JD350 7' sickle bar mower. How do we remove the sickle from the sickle bar? We need to replace some broken blades. Thanks

  2. #2
    Super Member 5030's Avatar
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    Feb 2003
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    6,000
    Location
    Michigan, S.E. Monroe County
    Tractor
    Kubota M9000 Hyd Kubota M105 shuttle

    Default Re: Remove sickle from sickle bar

    It depends on the type on my JD you remove the front guards and replace the knife sections one at a time or disconnect the pitman from the end and slide the knife bar out the opposite side.

    Just don't get between the guards and the knives, you'll lose a finger in a flash, even with a broken knife.

    I have an SCH double cut, however, there are many brands on JD sickle bar mowers.

    SCH will be stamped on the guards and knife sections 'SCH".
    A couple Kubota's and some payment books.....
    "If haying was easy, everyone would do it. It isn't."

  3. #3
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    111
    Location
    Central Iowa
    Tractor
    1025r, Old Iron, 70's JD 1020

    Default Re: Remove sickle from sickle bar

    after removing and wiring up the pitman rod, we would take a log chain, hook one clevis on the shank below the ball where the pitman rod was attached, and pull the sickle straight out. If I recall it seems like we had to get the sickle started with a wooden block that we had to tap with a hammer while someone kept tension on the chain, but when it finally chose to go, your fingers had better be outta the way.

    We used the chain to pull the sickle back in. while it was being guided by laying on blocks.

  4. #4
    Super Member 5030's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    6,000
    Location
    Michigan, S.E. Monroe County
    Tractor
    Kubota M9000 Hyd Kubota M105 shuttle

    Default Re: Remove sickle from sickle bar

    Quote Originally Posted by RippySkippy View Post
    after removing and wiring up the pitman rod, we would take a log chain, hook one clevis on the shank below the ball where the pitman rod was attached, and pull the sickle straight out. If I recall it seems like we had to get the sickle started with a wooden block that we had to tap with a hammer while someone kept tension on the chain, but when it finally chose to go, your fingers had better be outta the way.

    We used the chain to pull the sickle back in. while it was being guided by laying on blocks.
    A tight knife bar is a direct result of poor maintenance. My knife bars come out with little effort. A knife bar, if properly clearanced in the guards is a free floating fit.
    A couple Kubota's and some payment books.....
    "If haying was easy, everyone would do it. It isn't."

  5. #5
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    111
    Location
    Central Iowa
    Tractor
    1025r, Old Iron, 70's JD 1020

    Default Re: Remove sickle from sickle bar

    Quote Originally Posted by 5030 View Post
    A tight knife bar is a direct result of poor maintenance. My knife bars come out with little effort. A knife bar, if properly clearanced in the guards is a free floating fit.
    As I recall when the sickle was in it's working position, it was in deed loose, but to remove it, there was a slight hitch to get it to come out. This was on an old New Holland 10' bar.

    The chain was just to keep the fingers out of the way....

  6. #6
    Super Member 5030's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    6,000
    Location
    Michigan, S.E. Monroe County
    Tractor
    Kubota M9000 Hyd Kubota M105 shuttle

    Default Re: Remove sickle from sickle bar

    Quote Originally Posted by RippySkippy View Post
    As I recall when the sickle was in it's working position, it was in deed loose, but to remove it, there was a slight hitch to get it to come out. This was on an old New Holland 10' bar.

    The chain was just to keep the fingers out of the way....
    That's because the anvils (the back bar the tooth bar slides against) had a ledge worn it in. One thing you need to do is rotate the anvils yearly. You have 4 wearing sides, back, front, top and bottom. The new generation cutter bars eliminat that and can be retrofitted to existing units. The cutterbar rides against an anvil that's actually rollers. It reduces the power needed, they run quieter and last about forever and are no maintenance. SCH makes them for about every application.

    I'm very careful about where my fingers are. Never between a guard and a knife, even if I'm pulling the bar myself.

    I've amputated many a fawn's legs on first cut in tall hay.
    A couple Kubota's and some payment books.....
    "If haying was easy, everyone would do it. It isn't."

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