Remove sickle from sickle bar

[Dexterdowns]

We have a JD350 7' sickle bar mower. How do we remove the sickle from the sickle bar? We need to replace some broken blades. Thanks

 

[5030]

It depends on the type on my JD you remove the front guards and replace the knife sections one at a time or disconnect the pitman from the end and slide the knife bar out the opposite side.

Just don't get between the guards and the knives, you'll lose a finger in a flash, even with a broken knife.

I have an SCH double cut, however, there are many brands on JD sickle bar mowers.

SCH will be stamped on the guards and knife sections 'SCH".

 

[RippySkippy]

after removing and wiring up the pitman rod, we would take a log chain, hook one clevis on the shank below the ball where the pitman rod was attached, and pull the sickle straight out. If I recall it seems like we had to get the sickle started with a wooden block that we had to tap with a hammer while someone kept tension on the chain, but when it finally chose to go, your fingers had better be outta the way.

We used the chain to pull the sickle back in. while it was being guided by laying on blocks.

 

[5030]

after removing and wiring up the pitman rod, we would take a log chain, hook one clevis on the shank below the ball where the pitman rod was attached, and pull the sickle straight out. If I recall it seems like we had to get the sickle started with a wooden block that we had to tap with a hammer while someone kept tension on the chain, but when it finally chose to go, your fingers had better be outta the way.

We used the chain to pull the sickle back in. while it was being guided by laying on blocks.

A tight knife bar is a direct result of poor maintenance. My knife bars come out with little effort. A knife bar, if properly clearanced in the guards is a free floating fit.

 

[RippySkippy]

A tight knife bar is a direct result of poor maintenance. My knife bars come out with little effort. A knife bar, if properly clearanced in the guards is a free floating fit.

As I recall when the sickle was in it's working position, it was in deed loose, but to remove it, there was a slight hitch to get it to come out. This was on an old New Holland 10' bar.

The chain was just to keep the fingers out of the way....

 

[5030]

As I recall when the sickle was in it's working position, it was in deed loose, but to remove it, there was a slight hitch to get it to come out. This was on an old New Holland 10' bar.

The chain was just to keep the fingers out of the way....

That's because the anvils (the back bar the tooth bar slides against) had a ledge worn it in. One thing you need to do is rotate the anvils yearly. You have 4 wearing sides, back, front, top and bottom. The new generation cutter bars eliminat that and can be retrofitted to existing units. The cutterbar rides against an anvil that's actually rollers. It reduces the power needed, they run quieter and last about forever and are no maintenance. SCH makes them for about every application.

I'm very careful about where my fingers are. Never between a guard and a knife, even if I'm pulling the bar myself.

I've amputated many a fawn's legs on first cut in tall hay.