Finally got new Deere 2520 this weekend

[Strangerover]

After waiting 2 months, I finally got my new 2520 this weekend. It has the 200cx loader w/61" bucket and 46 backhoe. Put about 3 hrs on it so far, mostly "feeling" it out and learning to use the backhoe. It is my first tractor, so I really have no reference to compare it to. Plan on getting a box blade to help spread some dirt. Love that diesel drumming!

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

Congratulations!

 

[jenkinsph]

Congratulations on the new tractor.:thumbsup:

Get some seat time and enjoy it. A word of advice with the backhoe, watch that you donlt hit the stabilizers with the bucket.

 

[PossumHound]

Congrats, nice rig.:thumbsup: Send pics soon:licking:

PH

 

[Strangerover]

Thanks, and duly noted on the backhoe tip. Any tips that would help a newbie are welcome. I have about an acre of woods behind the back yard on a very rocky piece of property that I want to tame, so the kids can use it. I think I need some forks to help pick up + move some rocks around. I also want to spread some dirt around where the lawn has settled since construction 5 yrs ago. How much abuse can one of these rigs take, as far as bouncing around on less-than-even terrain? Has anybody broken the cast steel "backbone" in the middle (under the floor) or the hub reduction boxes @ the rear wheels? Those just (visually) seem like weak links if things got rough, but what the heck do I know? Don't get me wrong; I'm gentle on it & realize it's not a bulldozer or serious construction equip, + I'm scared-stiff of tipping it over. Wish I could afford some implements & attachments, but it took all I could scrape up to buy the machine. Gotta put some water back in the well!

 

[Runner]

Strange,

Congratulations! I'm sure you'll love the machine.

Here is a tip: If/when you need to detach the loader bucket (to attach your forks, etc.) don't get lazy and try to leave your lynch pins hanging by their cables. They will get caught under the bottom of the bucket mounts and break the cables. It's better to get in the habit of reattaching them to the extra mouning points on the bucket mount when they are not in use.

Not a big deal, but a way to preserve the cables.

Also, be gentle with your range shift lever. There have been threads on here about the pins that hold the levers breaking off inside the case and it's a bear to fix.

Oh, here's one more thing I learned. If you need to attach a drive shaft to either the mid or rear PTO, shift the PTO control lever to the opposite PTO from the one you are using. This allows you to easily rotate the PTO stub to line up with the splines on the drive shaft. It is a REAL pain in the neck to do it otherwise.

I wish you the best of luck with your new machine!

 

[pdp11]

Congratulations on the new tractor.

In general, the 2520 seems to be a pretty stout little tractor. As with anything, it's possible to break it if you push it well beyond what it is capable of. If you stay within the range of attachments that were designed for use with a tractor of this size, you shouldn't get into trouble. Proper ballasting will help a great deal with the FEL.

If you haven't already had it done by the dealer, make sure the rear tires are set to the wide stance (valve stems on the inside). This will make the tractor more stable, especially when using the FEL.

 

[glc24]

Congrats on your new machine!
I'm thinking you will thoroughly enjoy your 2520.:thumbsup:

Has anybody broken the cast steel "backbone" in the middle (under the floor) or the hub reduction boxes @ the rear wheels? Those just (visually) seem like weak links if things got rough, but what the heck do I know? Don't get me wrong; I'm gentle on it & realize it's not a bulldozer or serious construction equip

Yes!
Not sure which forum,but someone broke a reduction hub on his 2520.
BUT!! As you stated,if common sense is constantly in use,these kinds of things won't happen.:thumbsup:

Greg

 

[Strangerover]

How much wider does flipping the wheels make it? Thanks for all the tips, btw! Also, has anybody used the loader bucket to push snow? I realize it's not ideal, but does it work at all, say, in "float", or am I just going to make a fool of myself trying? I can't really afford a plow attachment for a while. Don't want to embarrass team green. How much traction do the R4's get on pavement pushing snow? The drive is a long, gentle slope.

 

[PCABE5]

How much wider does flipping the wheels make it? Thanks for all the tips, btw! Also, has anybody used the loader bucket to push snow? I realize it's not ideal, but does it work at all, say, in "float", or am I just going to make a fool of myself trying? I can't really afford a plow attachment for a while. Don't want to embarrass team green. How much traction do the R4's get on pavement pushing snow? The drive is a long, gentle slope.

Flipping is about 2 inches. The 200cx manual recommends the wide position.

As for using the loader for snow removal, it does a good job but is slower than other methods. If you think you'll embarrass team green then I've doing it for years as a loader is all I've used. You'll have to see how the traction goes, I do not run chains but others do. I just push the big stuff down hill. My drive is gravel so I leave a snow layer down. Chains may mark your asphalt and that is something to think about.