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  1. #21
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    2,923
    Location
    limerick pa lycoming county pa
    Tractor
    kubota bx23

    Default Re: JD 820 - 6 volt alternator on a 12 volt tractor?

    Can you put the belt on the blades and turn the engine over by hand to work it in?

    I've done it on lots of engines with tight clearances, just look at it close and see if you can do it that way.

    tom
    If it ain't broke we will help you brake it
    If it is broke we will help you get it fixed!


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  2. #22
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    12
    Tractor
    1973 John Deere 820 3 cylinder

    Default

    I can turn the fan when it isn't connected to the belt, but I can't turn the engine over by hand to save my life. Of course, that's probably because the transmission is in park, but I can't figure out how to get it out of park without starting it. Which I can't do with the belt disconnected.

    Also, even if I could turn it over by hand, there's a shaft that runs through the engine pulley, under the radiator, and into the compartment with the gas tank. It appears to be turning some kind of pump; maybe the water pump? I have to disconnect that shaft to get the belt on the engine pulley, and I can't see how to do that without taking out the radiator. So it's not just the fan that's holding me up.

  3. #23
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    9,392
    Location
    somewhere usa
    Tractor
    Deere 110tlb, 4520, x749, L130

    Default Re: JD 820 - 6 volt alternator on a 12 volt tractor?

    I can look at my 820 Sunday morning and get back with you.

    The pump you are referencing on the front of the cranshaft is the hydraulic pump. It should have a coupling on it to get the belt on.

    Having the transmission in park does not affect the engine, if you consider the engine runs in park position.

  4. #24
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    12
    Tractor
    1973 John Deere 820 3 cylinder

    Default

    Hey guys,

    I think I got this thing working! I finished fitting the new belt yesterday and wired the alternator into the system. The tractor started right up (although it would, given the new battery I had to buy), and there were no sparks, explosions, or shrapnel. Furthermore, there was a steady 15 volts across the battery terminals (most of the time - see below).

    A few final questions:

    - The pulley that came with the alternator was for a belt that was too narrow. So I pulled the pulley off the generator that was being replaced and adapted it to fit the alternator. However, that pulley was quite a bit larger in diameter than the pulley that was originally on the alternator, which means the alternator spins a bit more slowly than it would otherwise. And when the tractor is at a dead idle, there's only 12.5 volts across the battery leads. When I give it a bit of gas the voltage jumps to 15 and stays there. Does anybody think that's going to be a long-term problem?

    - I'm not 100% convinced I got the wiring exactly right. The alternator "BAT" terminal goes directly to the positive battery terminal. According to the wiring diagram that came with the alternator, terminal "2" is also supposed to go directly to the positive battery terminal, so I wired "2" and "BAT" together. Terminal "1" is supposed to go to the output of the indicator lamp, which it does (although the indicator lamp itself is clearly busted - ordered a new one but it won't come in until later this week). There is no ground wire; I assume the alternator is grounded through its housing. Does the wiring sound right?

    Thanks for all the help!

  5. #25
    Veteran Member kuboman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    2,103
    Location
    Canada
    Tractor
    B3200, L5740,

    Default Re: JD 820 - 6 volt alternator on a 12 volt tractor?

    Quote Originally Posted by glenhenshaw View Post
    Hey guys,

    I think I got this thing working! I finished fitting the new belt yesterday and wired the alternator into the system. The tractor started right up (although it would, given the new battery I had to buy), and there were no sparks, explosions, or shrapnel. Furthermore, there was a steady 15 volts across the battery terminals (most of the time - see below).

    A few final questions:

    - The pulley that came with the alternator was for a belt that was too narrow. So I pulled the pulley off the generator that was being replaced and adapted it to fit the alternator. However, that pulley was quite a bit larger in diameter than the pulley that was originally on the alternator, which means the alternator spins a bit more slowly than it would otherwise. And when the tractor is at a dead idle, there's only 12.5 volts across the battery leads. When I give it a bit of gas the voltage jumps to 15 and stays there. Does anybody think that's going to be a long-term problem?

    - I'm not 100% convinced I got the wiring exactly right. The alternator "BAT" terminal goes directly to the positive battery terminal. According to the wiring diagram that came with the alternator, terminal "2" is also supposed to go directly to the positive battery terminal, so I wired "2" and "BAT" together. Terminal "1" is supposed to go to the output of the indicator lamp, which it does (although the indicator lamp itself is clearly busted - ordered a new one but it won't come in until later this week). There is no ground wire; I assume the alternator is grounded through its housing. Does the wiring sound right?

    Thanks for all the help!
    I would have thought that #2 would go to a switched connection such as the ignition or something that will not be energized when the tractor is off. Otherwise won't the alternator cause a drain with the engine off? Just my thoughts. I am no expert by any means.
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  6. #26
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    12
    Tractor
    1973 John Deere 820 3 cylinder

    Default

    The indicator light is in series with the ignition switch... but to be honest I don't know what it is for. Does it light when you are getting a charge, or when you aren't?

  7. #27
    Veteran Member kuboman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    2,103
    Location
    Canada
    Tractor
    B3200, L5740,

    Default Re: JD 820 - 6 volt alternator on a 12 volt tractor?

    Quote Originally Posted by glenhenshaw View Post
    The indicator light is in series with the ignition switch... but to be honest I don't know what it is for. Does it light when you are getting a charge, or when you aren't?
    Usually the light is to indicate a no charge situation.
    L5740 LA854 loader
    L3130 LA723 loader sold
    B3200 LA504 loader
    B1550 sold
    B2620 sold
    B4200 sold
    F2680E
    GF1800
    Kubota RTV900
    JD 850D Gator sold
    JD F935 x 2 sold
    Case 590SM-2
    JD 310D TLB sold
    Ford 555D sold
    Gehl 602 excavator sol

  8. #28
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    9,392
    Location
    somewhere usa
    Tractor
    Deere 110tlb, 4520, x749, L130

    Default Re: JD 820 - 6 volt alternator on a 12 volt tractor?

    Quote Originally Posted by kuboman View Post
    I would have thought that #2 would go to a switched connection such as the ignition or something that will not be energized when the tractor is off. Otherwise won't the alternator cause a drain with the engine off? Just my thoughts. I am no expert by any means.

    That is what I am thinking, #2 goes to the ignition circuit the third wire to the altermator light. When the ignition is turned on the alt light should light up and when the engine is running with alternator charging the battery the light should go off. I am no expert either.

  9. #29
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    55
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Tractor
    1953 Farmall Super M

    Default

    Your #2 wire just goes to the BAT post on the back of the alternator. This is what's called your "sense" wire. It tells your alternator what the battery's voltage is and when to charge. The #1 wire is connected to your switched ignition circuit, warning light or diode in line. This wire should only be hot when the key or switch is in the on or run position. I'll attach a basic 10si alternator diagram, just don't pay attention to that it says its for a Super M. haha
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -05-12valternatorconv-rev4_22_08-gif  
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  10. #30
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Mar 2002
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    48,763
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    Central florida
    Tractor
    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: JD 820 - 6 volt alternator on a 12 volt tractor?

    did you wire the alt as a 1 wire job or 3 wire job?

    if wired as 3 wire, as long as the alt is spinning 400 rpm or so.. it should charge, and should automagically start charging as soon as it hits about 400 rpm, instead of needing the throttle gooseing.

    soundguy

    Quote Originally Posted by glenhenshaw View Post
    Hey guys,

    I think I got this thing working! I finished fitting the new belt yesterday and wired the alternator into the system. The tractor started right up (although it would, given the new battery I had to buy), and there were no sparks, explosions, or shrapnel. Furthermore, there was a steady 15 volts across the battery terminals (most of the time - see below).

    A few final questions:

    - The pulley that came with the alternator was for a belt that was too narrow. So I pulled the pulley off the generator that was being replaced and adapted it to fit the alternator. However, that pulley was quite a bit larger in diameter than the pulley that was originally on the alternator, which means the alternator spins a bit more slowly than it would otherwise. And when the tractor is at a dead idle, there's only 12.5 volts across the battery leads. When I give it a bit of gas the voltage jumps to 15 and stays there. Does anybody think that's going to be a long-term problem?

    - I'm not 100% convinced I got the wiring exactly right. The alternator "BAT" terminal goes directly to the positive battery terminal. According to the wiring diagram that came with the alternator, terminal "2" is also supposed to go directly to the positive battery terminal, so I wired "2" and "BAT" together. Terminal "1" is supposed to go to the output of the indicator lamp, which it does (although the indicator lamp itself is clearly busted - ordered a new one but it won't come in until later this week). There is no ground wire; I assume the alternator is grounded through its housing. Does the wiring sound right?

    Thanks for all the help!

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