changing leaking seal on front wheel

[fuseboxer]

Todays project has come to a halt and I need your help. I am stuck in the middle of a project to change the leaking seal on my left front wheel on my JD4410. Many JD compact tractors are identical or very near to the one pictured. The wheel came off easy with air gun, the hub asm with its eight bolts comes off with a low power air gun. The hub wheel asm breaks free easy by use of a air chisle in the indent area provided to seperate the two. The asm is in my very large vise and no gear puller nor my bearing puller will disassemble the asm pictured. The "C" clip was easy to take off. The service manual calls for page 638 = item #6. Press the hub shaft (I) from the final drive cover,bearings, and bevel gear. I do not have a press.

Anybody have any ideas where to go to pay for a press job or is their a way make a quick press at home? You experts who did this in the past know if I will need to press it together after I get it apart or can I tap/hammer the hub shaft with splines back together? **** HELP ****SOS

 

[beenthere]

If me, I'd take the part to my Deere dealer and ask that they press it apart, put in the new seal, and press it back together. That would be me. I wouldn't expect any flak from the service dept. and would expect to pay the labor charge.

On the other hand, it might give me an excuse to go to HF and pick up a cheap press as I've put it off for a long time now. Don't want it in the way of other things.

 

[dfkrug]

Yeah, you have to use a puller and a press....that's a big ring gear,
and the interference fit is tight. My axle rebuild is buried in my 4300
project. This photo is when I was pressing the bearing back on, using
a 34mm socket.

In the old days when I had no press, I went to machine shops or
transmission shops and they did it while I waited. Good luck.

 

[fuseboxer]

Approx 60-miles of driving and job complete. I started at O'Brian's garage he had a home made press. We paused and he recommended I go to Thompson's garage. At Thompson we sized it up and he sent me to
Alltrade machine shop. Mike pressed it apart, pressed in the seal leaving a slight lip as JD showed on the new seal instructions and pressed it back together using a little RTV sealer on outside of the seal. It took him about 15min and he asked for $20. I payed him $30. and told him I would come back in a week or so with the right side.

I recommend doing both sides at the same time the main time slowdown was draining the fluid and now I have to do it twice and waste more fluid. No way would I try to reuse it. Use a low power air gun to disassemble to make sure of success for the wheel and 8-bolts on the inner-hub. The impact chisle/hammer splits the inner-hub off smooth and fast when applied to the indented areas used to seperate. You can have it dissassembled and on my vise in 10 min. The slowdown is the messy fluid.:thumbsup:

 

[beenthere]

:thumbsup:
You got that done quick. Good to hear.

 

[fuseboxer]

:thumbsup:
You got that done quick. Good to hear.

Thanks------Wish I would have done both sides. A machine shop can do a quick fix in a jiffy with out the big $$ charge of the JD-dealer :thumbsup:

 

[fuseboxer]

After having good luck changing the left seal last week I ordered the right seal on line. The right had a few drips at time when bouncing on rough terrain land so with 2000 hours on the tractor I will change it. (Have the machine shop change it)

The seal comes from John Deere with instructions and indicates JD part numbers for the locktite for the outter rim of the seal and the JD Part number for RTV sealer for the hub (8bolt) install. I made the mistake of saying RTV on the outter seal JD uses JD locktite. I use whatever locktite is in the tool box and same with RTV sealer. Original seals were LVA10836 the new are LVA16814. The old seal is superseeded. The machine shop does a good job so I will do it again.

When you put the eight bolt back in to draw the cases together use common sense and no air gun. The eight long 10mm bolts draw the two halves together by you slowly tighten opposite bolts. Put the tire/rim back on and fill the fluid and you did a complete job. Should be good for years.