Need wiring diagram 5420

[PhilipTX]

I need a wiring diagram for a 2003 JD5420 (Early Model, Straddle Mount)

History:
No Start, blown #D fuse,
Fuel shot off solenoid is OK: I unplugged/disconnected it and tried to start = blown #D fuse.

Suspected the relay (bottom right in fuse box). Replaced the relay...same thing....blown #D fuse.

All I can find is the parts diagram with a picture of the wiring harness and the end connectors (to seat switch, PTO switch, tail lights, neutral switch, etc.)

The short is not from the fuel shut off, but I don't want to have to isolate each it the connector on the harness to trace this thing. I don't want to burn that many fuses. :confused2:


I could REALLY USE a REAL wiring diagram of the rear wiring harness.

Is such a thing available online? Or can some one fwd a copy?

Thanks
Philip-TX

 

[beenthere]

:welcome:
One way I find to trace a short in the system is to rig up a 12v light bulb to slip into the fuse slot.
Then when there is a short, the light bulb is on until the short is located and fixed.
Cheaper than putting in new fuses.
Sometimes just a wire that has rubbed the insulation off and causing the short. Moving wires around a bit helps to locate the short.

I take the blown fuse and solder the two leads from a light socket to each side for the tester. There are other ways to test for the short. Sorry but don't have the wiring diagram for you.

 

[JD5210]

I believe your problem is the temperature sensor. On the thermostat housing there is a temperature sensor that is connected to a two wire harness that goes to the injection pump; this is the "cold start advance" portion of the system so it starts easier when cold by advancing the timing.

If you disconnect the sensor and it works fine ohm test the sensor, probably shorted.

The sensor on the thermostat housing controls the advance on the injection pump. When it fails it shorts out and blows the fuel solenoid fuse. Try unplugging it, replace fuse and see if it starts and runs. The part # is RE503242, if you are quick changing it, you don't have to drain the coolant, just make sure it's not hot at the time. You will want a pan under the tractor to catch the coolant, so as not too have to clean it up.

You may need to re-prime the fuel system, if it still does not start

To comply with the exhaust emissions regulation, the timing of injection pump should be around 6? degrees before TDC. This timing values do not allow proper start-up operations when engine is cold. To ease engine start-up, a cold advance system gives to the injection pump a temporary over-timing.

 

[JD 4520]

I learned something on this one...thanks for all the details. TBN members are great. Blessings to you...

 

[PhilipTX]

beenthere,

Thanks for the idea. I'll try the bulb thing. I like making those kinda gadgets.:thumbsup:

JD521,

That is one of the circuits I plan on checking out. Guess I'll just trace the harness to all of the terminal ends, (neutral switch, fuse link, oil pressure, etc) and try to isolate each one. YUK!

Do you know the ohm reading for the temp sensor?

Is the temp senor a variable "resistance" "signal" or is it a switch?
i.e normally open or normally closed? So I can do a continuity test.
(things a wiring diagram should tell me)

I'll be working on it his weekend (w/ limited internet access) and report back in case others have similar problems.

Glad I found this place.
Thanks again,

 

[sixdogs]

:welcome:
One way I find to trace a short in the system is to rig up a 12v light bulb to slip into the fuse slot.
Then when there is a short, the light bulb is on until the short is located and fixed.
Cheaper than putting in new fuses.
Sometimes just a wire that has rubbed the insulation off and causing the short. Moving wires around a bit helps to locate the short.

I take the blown fuse and solder the two leads from a light socket to each side for the tester. There are other ways to test for the short. Sorry but don't have the wiring diagram for you.

What a great idea.

 

[JD5210]

Before spending a lot of time, I suggest you just disconnect the sensor and see, if it starts up. Last check the sensor is $31.24.

The sensor is resistance, I do not know the range, but in testing you will most likely find there is not a range. I looked at tractordata.com and it said the 5420 is identical to the 5410. I looked at the manual (URL included) and I could see the wire for the sensor. I have included a wiring diagram for the 5210 thru 5510. Bad thing is the sensor does not show up on the wiring diagram. You may want to look at selectmanuals.com to purchase a copy of the manual, please note I have not purchased anything from them.

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMRE199128_19/?tM=FR

 

[PhilipTX]

Yea I'll be getting a service manual.

This is just the first problem that came up where I needed one, and I am trying to get it fixed on short notice.

Got the test light made and look fwd to using it this wknd, too.

I made it with bullet connectors in-line so that it can be attached to different size fuses too, (either mini-fuses or the "little-bitty-mini" fuses). :thumbsup:

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

So I'm assuming you got it running Phillip?

 

[Charleyhorse]

This part fixed my 5420 start issues . I had blown 20 amp fuses
Dealer was no help. They wanted to replace
Neutral start solenoid. Gets better they told
Me some 5420 do not have fuel solenoids. Could this be true???
Still do not know where fuel solenoid is. Positive wire to injector pump leads to only a post.