Hydraulic scraper with 4000 series.

[JDTank]

has anyone ever used one of these or something similar? I tried to find a video online to see how it works with height adjustment but I am having no luck.

Is there a benefit to using a hydraulic one versus a regular 3 point mounted one?

Was thinking of using it with a 4520


JohnDeere Frontier LL11 Series Drawn Box Scrapers Landscaping Attachment JohnDeere.com

 

[hanson1999]

they work awesome. much better at leveling than a 3 point one. Ive used a 10 footer behind my 3320 and used it on a 4720 also. Worked great on both.

You don't get the blade "lift" like a 3 point version when a tire drives over a high spot. You can also take a pile of gravel and just kinda skim the corner and pull gravel from the pile to where you need it.

3 point ones have there place but in the open area a drawn one is way better.

 

[JDTank]

What I have a need for is to basically make a road through a field. We did this once before but it has been neglected this last year, and has grown over about 30%

I have a lot of dips and bumps, uneven ground, and the problem I see with 3 point models is if the tractor sinks into a hole, the box blade goes down as well, so nothing really gets fixed. If you rise up going over a bump, the box blade simply follows over the bump as well, given that there is no down pressure on the 3 point to force it to carve into the bump and level it out.

I want to make it nice and level and have very defined edges so it looks pristine. Is this a good fit, or should I be looking at a 3 point with hydraulic tilt and angle?

 

[beenthere]

The drawn box scraper is by far the better tool over a 3 ph model (unless the 3 ph model has trailing wheels that are easily adjustable). The drawn scraper will need a tractor with the weight and hp to maintain good traction.

That said, a 3 ph model with hyd. tilt and angle can do the job with a skilled operator.

 

[jdonovan]

I tried to find a video online to see how it works with height adjustment but I am having no luck.

There is a hydraulic cylinder that controls the wheel in the back. That wheel is what sets the height.

I've generally used the 3-point variety. I seem to be able to level things well enough. You won't get it perfect on the first few passes. If you have larger holes to fill, you've got to get them taken care of before you'll get smooth ground around them.

Is this a good fit, or should I be looking at a 3 point with hydraulic tilt and angle

Tilt, and angle is generally done with a top and tilt kit. Depending on how level or not the area is, and if you need to cut ditches, thats what a TNT can really help with.

If you don't have rear hydraulic remotes, and controls... it could be significant cost to get the machine setup with the needed items.

 

[JDTank]

I see John Deere offers rear blades that have there own hydraulic rams for angle and tilt, as long as one has the remotes for those, that might be a better way to go then top n tilt, not?

 

[hanson1999]

get the drawn scraper...you wont regret it for building a road. 3 point ones are nice for confined spaces.

as far as power, nobody said you have to fill it. scrape what your tractor can handle at once and make more passes.

 

[JDTank]

get the drawn scraper...you wont regret it for building a road. 3 point ones are nice for confined spaces.

as far as power, nobody said you have to fill it. scrape what your tractor can handle at once and make more passes.

Ok thanks for the info!

Confined space definitely is not an issue for me, everywhere I plan to use it is surrounded by nothing!

 

[jenkinsph]

If it were me I would go with a 3ph boxblade with topntilt hitch as it can do a wide variety of things including backing up easily. For the road work you speak of a landplane grader such as the LP1196 will do a great job smoothing and maintainingyour gravel drives for the long term.


Having both a good box and good plane I would also suggest you may only need the landplane for your job. I typically can get by without a boxblade for most road building.

Another point I would make is most boxblade work is half the time moving forward and half the time moving in reverse. If I were to choose two implements for building your road it would be a landplane grader and a hydraulically operated rearblade.



http://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/non_current/dsfe41828_land_planel_lp10_11_lit.pdf

 

[JDTank]

I should mention, none of these roads are gravel, right now there hog fuel. I intend on making a nice, clean wide path, and possibly having it paved with asphalt, if that proves to be to costly, then it will most likely end up being gravel.

Obviously once I start dragging it I will lose all the hog fuel, which is fine by me, there isn't much left in that area anyway.

I'm not concerned about backing up or anything like that, as it will be long passes in each direction. I just need to make a road from our driveway, across a field to where our barn is, about 500 feet or so.