2320 Drive Shaft U Joint blew up.

[ORCM]

Was out enjoying one of the first nice days of the year, mowing my lawn. Started to feel some vibration, but I didn稚 know where it was coming from. Just stop the tractor, and was throttling down when BOOM. All vibration stopped, and the engine was still running. Did some checking and found the drive shaft from the engine to the transmission was no longer connected to the motor. Got the mower deck off the tractor, and into the shop. Tore off some of the dash so I could see what was going on. Defiantly a U Joint failure on the front of the shaft, completely destroy. Doesn稚 look like anything else got hurt, but the shaft end might be done. A few things I noticed:

-Looks like the U Joint has a zerk on it. How in Gods green earth are you supposed to get in there to grease it?
-I grease my tractor all the time, and the manual says nothing about greasing this.
-I saw no grease around the joint at all; did it not get greased at the factory?
-This is a perfect application for seal bearings.

I thought I read about something like this happening before. Of course my warranty is out, but I only have 330hrs on the tractor. I think this is way premature to have a catastrophic failure like this.

 

[beenthere]

If me, I'd go right to my dealer with the problem. Point out the failure of the manual to recommend greasing that zerk in that joint.

 

[bill1369]

Here is the link to the discussion on my exact problem last year:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ating/199396-2320-hydro-drive-shaft-just.html

Good luck with it. My tractor was 6 months out of warranty, and the dealer gave me a hard-time at first....but eventually they repaired it at no-charge.

I agree...totally poor design around this area. Thinking of selling my 2320 this year just because of this design issue. I fear it is just going to happen again

Let us know how you turn out

 

[ORCM]

Here is the link to the discussion on my exact problem last year:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ating/199396-2320-hydro-drive-shaft-just.html

Good luck with it. My tractor was 6 months out of warranty, and the dealer gave me a hard-time at first....but eventually they repaired it at no-charge.

I agree...totally poor design around this area. Thinking of selling my 2320 this year just because of this design issue. I fear it is just going to happen again

Let us know how you turn out

Bill, I did some more searching last night and found your post. Hopefully with all your info and the fact that they covered yours out of warranty I can get some help. I found the manual update that talks about greasing it, but Deere or my dealer never sent it to me. Besides, by the time it came out the damage was proabably already done. I've been hearing some sqeaking noises at low idle at start up for a while now, and couldn't pin point what it was. I just thought it was something like the belt or the hood. Guess I know what it was now.

I will post some pic's later today. Mine broke in the front not the back, and lucky doesn't look like it hurt anything else. However, I look the parts up online and you have to buy the whole shaft assembly, and its $600.

 

[ORCM]

Talk to the service manager this morning, he is going to contact the Deere Rep. He said that he has seen one of these before, and I'm afraid that there will be more to come.

Here's some pic's for you viewing pleasure:

 

[zzvyb6]

On other models with the same architecture (Like my F935), there is a rubber isolator in the middle of the driveline. It takes a beating, too, from length changes as well as the shaft alignment purpose because the motor is rubber mounted. I wonder if drive shafts from these other configurations could be fitted up. Plenty of used parts on eBay to look at, including the isolators.

 

[ORCM]

Well got a call back from the dealer. He said Deere would pickup the cost of the shaft Assembly, and the dealer is going to reduce some of the hours (From 8 to 6). All said and done its going to cost me $475 out of pocket, plus he is going to pick it up, and return it for free. He told me they had done the same thing recently and the total cost was about $1400 for parts a labor. I guess this is pretty fair since the tractor is almost 3 years out of warranty. However, it does piss me off that they didn't note this in the manual. If they had, then I would have greased it and I would be posting this right now.


I was thinking about it. If Deere wasn't going to step up to the plate, and take some responsibility for it. I would have taken the shaft to somewhere like Six States, and see if they could have made a replacement slip shaft with seal bearings.

 

[vabiker23518]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/tym-owning-operating/199581-broke-drive-shaft-universal.html

I had a U Joint failure too last spring. This is a TYM and the U doesn't have a zerk. I was finally able to install a new one (dealer provided free) as I was in warrenty. Didn't ask the cost, but amazed at how expensive yours is...yikes~~

 

[wdchyd]

ORCM,

You can thank the good lord it didn't break the trans housing like Bill1369's did...

I did a oil/filter/trans service for a neighbor that had his JD2320 dealer serviced from new and that u-joint was NEVER greased till I uncovered and greased it......

They almost need an access cover on the floor-board that helps to grease those joints

 

[ORCM]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/tym-owning-operating/199581-broke-drive-shaft-universal.html

I had a U Joint failure too last spring. This is a TYM and the U doesn't have a zerk. I was finally able to install a new one (dealer provided free) as I was in warrenty. Didn't ask the cost, but amazed at how expensive yours is...yikes~~

Yeah, the problem is that its a solid shaft. When its broken, you can get it right off, but to put the new one on you have to remove some bolts on the back of the motor. He said they almost have to move the tranny back to get the new shaft on. The Pic does't show it, but there is basicly no room on the front side of the shaft. They have to tear the whole tractor apart. Thats way I said it would have been worth it to check on another option, if I was doing it.

Of course if you see part A, the old design... Looks nice and easy to get off.. And B is the new improved design that... um breaks, and is way harder to work on..:confused2: