micdelbo
Member
Multiple searches of this sight and Google showed nothing on the problem I am having with my front rims on my JD 4115.
I purchased my JD used with 236 hours on it about 5 years ago. I have always had to tighten the right front wheel bolts every few months. It seems like whenever I do any substantial loader work, the bolts will loosen slightly. This in turn caused the bolt holes in the rims to wear a little oval. Tightening the bolts seemed to keep everything working okay but obviously the wheel was worn.
So this past winter I went to tighten the bolts and one of them would not budge, on or off and the head sheared off. So, I tightened the other 3 and plowed the one snowfall we had. Parked the unit and forgot about it until this week when I went to roto-till to plant peas.
I noticed the wheel was a little wobbly and inspected it. See attached pic.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...215210-front-rims-lug-bolts-4115-jd-wheel.jpg
I went to remove the remaining 3 bolts and 2 came out no problem, the third wouldn't budge. I have an IR 650 ft./lbs. impact gun and it usually takes out most any bolt/nut. What was really weird was if I put the gun's torque setting in the middle and tightened the bolt, it would move a little, but to then go in reverse at the full 650 wouldn't budge. Finally the head sheared off the last bolt.
The rim actually cracked and pieces came off, so I will need to replace it. The other rim is cracked as well, so I ordered 2.
To get the broken bolts out I had to remove the front spindle and take the wheel to a friend who is a machinist. We first tried welding a 9/16 x 18 nut onto the protruding bolts, (now studs), and heating the spindle. They would not budge to come out. We could get them to tighten about 1/8 turn and then they would stop and go out about the same and stop. He couldn't believe it. We had the spindle glowing red and ended up twisting the welded on nuts right off.
We finally ended up cutting the studs off, center punching them and drilling them out gradually with incremental drill sizes on a press. Unlike many bolts that will usually unscrew very easily when drilled, these were very difficult. It took a lot of very easy chisel work to get the remainder of the bolt out. What we found was that a few of the threads on the cast spindle actually "split" and were acting as a form of wedge causing the split threads to ramp up onto the threads still attached to the spindle. He had a term for this condition which I can't recall. This of course boogered up the threads. Of course they are metric, so we simply made them 9/16 x 18 fine thread with a tap.
I removed the left wheel and noticed that even though the bolts were tight, the rim is split a little and the holes are slightly rounded. No where near the extent of the right side though and I have never had to tighten this side. See pic #2.http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258669&stc=1&d=1333219101
I believe the cracked rims are a result of the extra weight imposed by the loader and material being handled. I also believe the rounded out holes in the rims are a result of the bolt heads not being tapered. If this is the case, I feel it is a poor design.
I have 2 thoughts on how to finish this up. First is to simply use 9/16 x 18 bolts with lock washers on the new rims and check them more frequently. This would basically be the same as the stock setup.
My other thought is to trash the bolt/lock washer setup and instead install 9/16 x 18 tapered head lug bolts. I have to wait to get the rims to see how much of the head taper will go into the holes and if needed to drill the holes out slightly. I believe this will help keep the rims tighter to the spindle than the stock setup by not allowing the wheel to move as the torque of the MFWD is applied to the spindle.
I am undecided on which to do. I usually have high confidence in the engineering of products by companies, especially JD. If the problem I am having is due to me or the previous owner not torquing the bolts enough, then I will go to the OEM bolt/lock washer setup. On the other hand, I think the tapered bolt head is also a good idea. Although a lock washer cannot be installed in this case.
So, has anyone had or currently have split rims on their unit? If not, what are your thoughts.
Any input is appreciated.
Mike
I purchased my JD used with 236 hours on it about 5 years ago. I have always had to tighten the right front wheel bolts every few months. It seems like whenever I do any substantial loader work, the bolts will loosen slightly. This in turn caused the bolt holes in the rims to wear a little oval. Tightening the bolts seemed to keep everything working okay but obviously the wheel was worn.
So this past winter I went to tighten the bolts and one of them would not budge, on or off and the head sheared off. So, I tightened the other 3 and plowed the one snowfall we had. Parked the unit and forgot about it until this week when I went to roto-till to plant peas.
I noticed the wheel was a little wobbly and inspected it. See attached pic.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...215210-front-rims-lug-bolts-4115-jd-wheel.jpg
I went to remove the remaining 3 bolts and 2 came out no problem, the third wouldn't budge. I have an IR 650 ft./lbs. impact gun and it usually takes out most any bolt/nut. What was really weird was if I put the gun's torque setting in the middle and tightened the bolt, it would move a little, but to then go in reverse at the full 650 wouldn't budge. Finally the head sheared off the last bolt.
The rim actually cracked and pieces came off, so I will need to replace it. The other rim is cracked as well, so I ordered 2.
To get the broken bolts out I had to remove the front spindle and take the wheel to a friend who is a machinist. We first tried welding a 9/16 x 18 nut onto the protruding bolts, (now studs), and heating the spindle. They would not budge to come out. We could get them to tighten about 1/8 turn and then they would stop and go out about the same and stop. He couldn't believe it. We had the spindle glowing red and ended up twisting the welded on nuts right off.
We finally ended up cutting the studs off, center punching them and drilling them out gradually with incremental drill sizes on a press. Unlike many bolts that will usually unscrew very easily when drilled, these were very difficult. It took a lot of very easy chisel work to get the remainder of the bolt out. What we found was that a few of the threads on the cast spindle actually "split" and were acting as a form of wedge causing the split threads to ramp up onto the threads still attached to the spindle. He had a term for this condition which I can't recall. This of course boogered up the threads. Of course they are metric, so we simply made them 9/16 x 18 fine thread with a tap.
I removed the left wheel and noticed that even though the bolts were tight, the rim is split a little and the holes are slightly rounded. No where near the extent of the right side though and I have never had to tighten this side. See pic #2.http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258669&stc=1&d=1333219101
I believe the cracked rims are a result of the extra weight imposed by the loader and material being handled. I also believe the rounded out holes in the rims are a result of the bolt heads not being tapered. If this is the case, I feel it is a poor design.
I have 2 thoughts on how to finish this up. First is to simply use 9/16 x 18 bolts with lock washers on the new rims and check them more frequently. This would basically be the same as the stock setup.
My other thought is to trash the bolt/lock washer setup and instead install 9/16 x 18 tapered head lug bolts. I have to wait to get the rims to see how much of the head taper will go into the holes and if needed to drill the holes out slightly. I believe this will help keep the rims tighter to the spindle than the stock setup by not allowing the wheel to move as the torque of the MFWD is applied to the spindle.
I am undecided on which to do. I usually have high confidence in the engineering of products by companies, especially JD. If the problem I am having is due to me or the previous owner not torquing the bolts enough, then I will go to the OEM bolt/lock washer setup. On the other hand, I think the tapered bolt head is also a good idea. Although a lock washer cannot be installed in this case.
So, has anyone had or currently have split rims on their unit? If not, what are your thoughts.
Any input is appreciated.
Mike