3-Point Hitch Weird Thing - Link Broke

[DKCDKC]

The left lift link on my JD 3038e broke this afternoon - at a time when I was doing FEL work and had nothing on the hitch. The lift link is the bar from the hydraulic arm down to the draft link, the bar that is a third of the 3-pt hitch.

I was busy and didn't notice the break I guess, and backed up with a few vines in my bucket. The back of the tractor rose up - the same effect you get when you try to lift more than the tractor can handle. I lowered the bucket and - tho it took a few seconds for the left rear to drop- I didn't notice it for a few moments - then heard a dragging noise and checked.

The draft link had dropped and, as I backed, it had lifted up the back rear wheel and wedged forward.

I studied the situation - since I was a mile from anywhere, then removed the sway chain and slowly ran forward. The link lifted the tractor again and came out where it was supposed to be. I wired it up until I was finished.

The lift link broke at the weld, so I can only assume it was a defect - although I have used a box blade and rotary cutter on it recently without problem. Got 35 hours on the tractor.

I'll drop by the dealer tomorrow.

 

[AKfish]

The left lift link on my JD 3038e broke this afternoon - at a time when I was doing FEL work and had nothing on the hitch. The lift link is the bar from the hydraulic arm down to the draft link, the bar that is a third of the 3-pt hitch.

I was busy and didn't notice the break I guess, and backed up with a few vines in my bucket. The back of the tractor rose up - the same effect you get when you try to lift more than the tractor can handle. I lowered the bucket and - tho it took a few seconds for the left rear to drop- I didn't notice it for a few moments - then heard a dragging noise and checked.

The draft link had dropped and, as I backed, it had lifted up the back rear wheel and wedged forward.

I studied the situation - since I was a mile from anywhere, then removed the sway chain and slowly ran forward. The link lifted the tractor again and came out where it was supposed to be. I wired it up until I was finished.

The lift link broke at the weld, so I can only assume it was a defect - although I have used a box blade and rotary cutter on it recently without problem. Got 35 hours on the tractor.

I'll drop by the dealer tomorrow.

I did a similar thing with my JD970. I had a rear blade on the tractor at the time. I was backing up in a road ditch (fairly wide) and pushed one corner of the blade into the ground.

Wasn't going more than 2-3mph and that was enough... broke the lift link between the rockshaft and the lower draft arm.

Think it was ~$170 for a replacement - !

Nonetheless, I ALWAYS look behind me when backing and NEVER assume I'm either too far or too close to hitting something - I KNOW where the implement or the 3pt arms are!

AKfish

 

[DKCDKC]

What was so weird about breaking this link was that the hitch was completely empty... But had been used before.

I have had issues with my last two tractors with the snap pins coming loose and dropping with various implements - so I have gotten in the habit of looking back fairly often when anything is on the hitch.

 

[DKCDKC]

Whatever the cause... My dealer couldn't figure it out either... But replaced it under warranty.

'Course just going to the dealer can be expensive. They put so many nice toys (attachements, JD doodads, etc.) in the lobby or out front, it's hard to get in or out without another investment. But I made it this time.

 

[Verticaltrx]

The left lift link on my JD 3038e broke this afternoon - at a time when I was doing FEL work and had nothing on the hitch. The lift link is the bar from the hydraulic arm down to the draft link, the bar that is a third of the 3-pt hitch.

I was busy and didn't notice the break I guess, and backed up with a few vines in my bucket. The back of the tractor rose up - the same effect you get when you try to lift more than the tractor can handle. I lowered the bucket and - tho it took a few seconds for the left rear to drop- I didn't notice it for a few moments - then heard a dragging noise and checked.

The draft link had dropped and, as I backed, it had lifted up the back rear wheel and wedged forward.

I studied the situation - since I was a mile from anywhere, then removed the sway chain and slowly ran forward. The link lifted the tractor again and came out where it was supposed to be. I wired it up until I was finished.

The lift link broke at the weld, so I can only assume it was a defect - although I have used a box blade and rotary cutter on it recently without problem. Got 35 hours on the tractor.

I'll drop by the dealer tomorrow.

Consider yourself very lucky, we used to have a JD 4400 that this happened to. The 3pt arm dropped down (while mowing with nothing on the 3pt) and when it backed up the arm went up under the tractor like you described and snapped the rear axle housing. A very expensive repair.

 

[DKCDKC]

Fortunately on the 3038e the arm could only wedge against the tire. It didn't have the position to press on anything else as far as I could see. But it could have rolled the tractor had I had the bucket loaded.

 

[greg_g]

I see the 3038e has side links, although - in the tractor manual - they look somewhat insubstantial. On all the tractors I've owned, side links could be adjusted to prevent the lift arms from striking the inside of the tires? If this is true for the 3038, then you should shorten them accordingly to prevent this from happening again.

//greg//

 

[DKCDKC]

The 3038e does have side links and, to me, they seem pretty substantial. The problem is that when the lift link breaks, the lower draft link drops straight down. If you then back up, it catches the ground and is forced under the tractor toward the tire. The side link prevents the link from going toward the center of the tractor. It is not and could not be a solid bar to prevent it ever going toward the tire. The two side links working together prevent the implement from swaying. Anyway, when the draft link is levered under the tractor, the geometry of the side link changes and it allows the bar to get under or wedged against the tire. Fortunately, it did not press against anything that would break.

 

[greg_g]

Ah, I didn't understand the sequence as stated in your original post. But really, that too is avoidable. I've got quite a varied assortment of TPH implements. Every one (that I can't lift by hand) has lift pins that are at least 6" above ground level. I find no need to have the lift links adjusted to where they're at or near ground level. They're adjusted to no higher than pin level, and never ever even get close to ground contact.

And FYI, my 3720 has pin-adjustable semi-rigid side links. You might consider checking to see if they're compatible with the 3038 mounting points.

//greg//

 

[beenthere]

DK
Do you have a pic of the broken link? I'm curious where it broke. thanks

I assume it is the item #36 shown here.