JD 4115 Owners Input Requested

[Anonymous Poster]

Hi,

I've pretty much decided that I will be picking up a 4115 in about three weeks. It's on order, but the dealer has indicated to me that if I decide to cancel the order, not a problem with him. He'll always be able to sell it to someone else.

If you own a 4115 would you please tell me what you like about it, or don't like about it. I have compared it to the 4210...but the 4210 is just too big of a machine for my needs. I don't expect to ever need a backhoe. So this is a factor that need not be suggested. Also, I am going John Deere, so please no Kubota suggestions. I'm just looking for input on the 4115 and how it works for you. I have 5 acres, 2 acres lawn, rest is wooded. I have a 1000' gravel driveway and a huge turn-around area. This area especially will have to be snow-blowed in winter. For accessories, I have ordered a 54" front blade. a 47" snow blower, a 53" loader set up, and a soft cab.

Please, your comments and input on how the 4115 has worked for you. Or hasn't and why not.

Thank you very much in advance for your help!

2flints

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have had my 4115 for almost a year with few issues. Most troublesome was the quick disconnects for the FEL. While using the loader it failed to lift. Bucket would roll up and down, and down pressure was OK, but no lift. This occured twice, then the dealer replaced all w/redesigned couplers. No problems since.

Only other issue is weight of the trector. It can be a little light even w/loaded tires for a 7' back blade in heavy snow, but that's where the 60" HD bucket comes in. I've run a blower before, no fun w/o a cab. Looks like your all set there. A blower can also be hard on gravel, that's why I went with a back blade. When used backward, it is much nicer on the driveway in the early snows. You might want to look at or rent a York rake for spring cleanup.

Like anything else, there's no silver bullet. I needed a machine for upstate NY snow removal, mowing 1.5 acres, driveway maintenance, and ditching. For me, the 4115 works well.

Last but not least, a dealership w/a good service department - can't say enough.

Enjoy! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Jim

 

[Steve_in_SEMich]

I've owned a 4115 since July'02. JD 61"FEL, Frontier 60"box blade, JD 60" MMM, JD ballast box, TSC Carry-All. All attachments work great and are the right size for the 4115 - let me repeat, all attachments work great and are the RIGHT size. Whatever size tractor you want, match the attachments/implements to your unit. I've had no mechanical problems, have accomplished more than I ever thought possible with this size CUT, and had a blast doing it. Filling in ditches,removing stumps, moving brick & rock, placing topsoil/fill dirt/mulch/sand, mowing the lawn, and snow removal are the items on my task list. This weekend I'm headed North to fetch firewood (picked up skidding tongs to help convince the heavier logs to cooperate).

Steve

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Please let us know how well the tongs work...I've been contemplating getting a set myself.
Thanks!

PS: Where is Ortonville?

 

[Caretaker]

2flints,

I have a 4100Hydro (ancestor of the 4115) with a pretty full complement of attachments. Except for a paved driveway, I have a comparable place to yours. Got my tractor in July of 2000, now have almost 500 hours on it. I use it a lot - I decided when I got it that getting every implement I could would maximize the value of the tractor for me, which has proven to be the case. There's about 8 tractors (different sizes / models) on the road I live on, and we all agree that the 4100 is an excellent tractor for size property you're working on.

A couple of things - you might want to get the hydraulic chute rotation for the snowblower, and get the remote chute cap control cable. Being able to change direction of snowblowing w/o having to get off the tractor is very useful.

A block heater and hydro oil sump heater is available for the tractor. I'd recommend it - the glow plug is fixed at only 3-seconds 'on', unlike other tractors that sense the temperature of the block and adjust the glow plug on time accordingly.

When it comes time to change the hydro oil, make sure you get the correct filter. Because of the mid-front drive shaft (that gives you the front PTO for your snowblower), you need a smaller diameter filter to clear the driveshaft. Also make sure that the driveshaft clears all lines, etc. when you install it.

A high-cap alternator kit is available - worth it if you want to use lots of work lights, extra 12-powered stuff, etc.

Probably the biggest complaint I have about my tractor is that it's loud. I keep earplugs and earmuffs in the cab - encourages me to use 'em. Get yourself good, comfortable ones, whatever you pick - you'll end up wearing them for many hours.

For the front-end loader, I'd highly recommend the 3-point ballast box. It really fixes stability when moving heavy loads. I also got a set of JD Pallet forks - they go on in place of the bucket, the FEL frame is still used. They are also VERY useful - obviously for moving anything I store on pallets (which I'm encouraged to do now /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ), but also for picking up logs for firewood and collecting/moving brush piles for chipping/shredding. A Ballast Box is MANDATORY with front forks - those forks stick way out there, and make a nice effective lever for picking up the rear end of the tractor. I looked at the 'bolt-on-to-the bucket" style versus the JD model, and for the price difference there was no question. No chance of damaging the bucket, the forks and bucket are changed so easily (unhook two QC Lock Pins) that you can easily use them, the forks are properly tempered, etc. etc. The pallet forks are the same ones used on the 42xx-thru 47xx, so they're pretty heavy duty. You can also get a bale spear for it if you're so inclined... Remember that the 41xx is a relatively small tractor - you can easily overload it with the front forks. I don't run ballast in my rear tires (no soil compaction), so a ballast box is even more necessary. As someone said earlier, the real key is properly sizing your attachments - and that means using them properly, too. Take two trips - it still beats carrying it, or pushing a wheelbarrow.

Last, you might want to get some suitcase weights for the front for using when mowing. My setup is different, I have a 3-point bagger, which lightens the front end - you may not need it. If you notice your front-wheels 'plowing', that is being pushed straight ahead when you turn sharply while mowing, you need to slow down and/or add some weight to the front. I think you can hang up to 5 ea 42lb suitcase weights on the FEL front mounting bracket. 'Course, you can leave the FEL on while mowing, which will give you plenty of stabilizing weight, but it does impact visibility.

Those are just a few suggestions based on what your post said. Good luck to you, and happy tractoring /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Caretaker

 

[Steve_in_SEMich]

Wannafish,

Tongs work fine for dragging (one person w/tractor), but probably need two people for lifting - like putting logs on trailer. There is still some "get off the tractor" tasks to ensure tongs grab the logs, but at least I'm not lifting the logs onto a carrier/skidder. Take a small hammer to set the tongs in the log if it doesn't grab. After awhile you'll get the hang of it and reduce the number of dismounts.

Steve
Ortonville is between Flint & Pontiac, just North of Clarkston