Fall Project - JD 3320 as Helper

   / Fall Project - JD 3320 as Helper #1  

CinderSchnauzer

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During this next winter I need to store / work on something in my heated shed. Unfortunately it is about 6' longer than the shed interior. Rather than seeking a variance and / or building permit, I decided to construct something temporary. The structure was built in two "U shaped" parts 8' deep x 12' wide x 6' high. The upper part has a roof with a 2' rise making total height 12' on the parking area side and 14' high next to the building.

Adapters for the JD FEL QA were constructed using 2" x 8" x 12' lumber and bolted to the structure. With Ballast Box in place my little helper Johnny D is able to lift the two pieces into place for attachment to the building. There are still a couple of things needed for final finishing.
 

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   / Fall Project - JD 3320 as Helper #2  
Pretty smart move, also saves on property taxes. I like the idea!

Also glad to see you posting again and as well as Inspector Schnauzer on the job.
 
   / Fall Project - JD 3320 as Helper #3  
Interesting project, inspired use of tractor, FREAKIN' AWESOME DOG! :)
 
   / Fall Project - JD 3320 as Helper #4  
Interesting idea. Is there a door on the opposite end or will your extension be your "door"? I didn't see if you did the same but I probably would add some "guides" so that when lowering the top section it would always drop into the correct spot. Particularly since I tend to work alone and seldom place things exactly the same way twice. Bolt it to the building to secure it and you have a sweet way to get a bigger building without building a bigger building. :D
 
   / Fall Project - JD 3320 as Helper
  • Thread Starter
#5  
At this time there is no door on the other end, so yes the extension becomes the new door - not one that will get opened or closed very often. This project may not be along term solution, but should work for this winter. The basic problem is I would prefer to add about 16' across the whole back of the shed, BUT, to make it legal would require a building permit, a variance to the local bylaw and a concrete pad / footing etc. For the moment, I'm trying to avoid that can of worms, plus the complete addition is $$$ and this project was relatively inexpensive. I may move the whole structure to the back of the building someday and put in an inexpensive door, which in theory would maintain the "temporary" aspect provided by this solution and at the same time allow a straight drive in through the front door.

I have guides around the door frame made from 2x6 which also serve as something to attach the whole thing to the shed and provide a means to minimize air leaks. Side to side is the critical adjustment when placing the top half and so far I have not come up with a solution that will allow sideways movement while still attached to the FEL. During test fittings, I have been able to get it placed within about 1/4" - 1/2" of where required, attach to the shed and then slide the outside edge as required to align everything.

So far the greatest challenge was to try and build the project, using standard lumber which is never totally straight, in a manner that was reasonably square and true and then align it with the building, which turned out to be not totally square or level either.

Thanks for your comments.
 
   / Fall Project - JD 3320 as Helper #7  
At this time there is no door on the other end, so yes the extension becomes the new door - not one that will get opened or closed very often. This project may not be along term solution, but should work for this winter. The basic problem is I would prefer to add about 16' across the whole back of the shed, BUT, to make it legal would require a building permit, a variance to the local bylaw and a concrete pad / footing etc. For the moment, I'm trying to avoid that can of worms, plus the complete addition is $$$ and this project was relatively inexpensive. I may move the whole structure to the back of the building someday and put in an inexpensive door, which in theory would maintain the "temporary" aspect provided by this solution and at the same time allow a straight drive in through the front door.

I have guides around the door frame made from 2x6 which also serve as something to attach the whole thing to the shed and provide a means to minimize air leaks. Side to side is the critical adjustment when placing the top half and so far I have not come up with a solution that will allow sideways movement while still attached to the FEL. During test fittings, I have been able to get it placed within about 1/4" - 1/2" of where required, attach to the shed and then slide the outside edge as required to align everything.

So far the greatest challenge was to try and build the project, using standard lumber which is never totally straight, in a manner that was reasonably square and true and then align it with the building, which turned out to be not totally square or level either.

Thanks for your comments.

I believe I would construct a set of cross braces (from tube steel) that could be attached and removed for use while moving/installing the pieces to make them more stable in flight. At the top of the bottom section I would add pieces to to give a U shape, preferably with a flare on top to guide the pieces in. The guides could also serve as a point to run bolts through to lock them together.
 
   / Fall Project - JD 3320 as Helper
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I believe I would construct a set of cross braces (from tube steel) that could be attached and removed for use while moving/installing the pieces to make them more stable in flight. At the top of the bottom section I would add pieces to to give a U shape, preferably with a flare on top to guide the pieces in. The guides could also serve as a point to run bolts through to lock them together.

Thanks for the good input. Something to think about over the next few months. I finished the installation today and aside from plugging a few air leaks, it will stay in place until removed next March.
 
   / Fall Project - JD 3320 as Helper #9  
Could be easier to do the stuff I suggested with it bolted in so you would want to do it in the spring when you remove it.
 
 
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