JD2210 upper driveshaft service/grease
- Thread starter ovrszd
- Start date
I not only can't grease either u-joint while the driveshaft is installed, I can't see cutting a hole, dont think it would be a benefit to get at the zerks either. I'm waiting on the JD engineers to come up with a canvas tube that will screw in and hang out long enough to grease this section effortlessly ! And then I woke up of course.
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,499
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- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
Heheheheheh. I think there are several 2305 owners that have reported being able to grease theirs without removal, relatively easy. Having never looked at one I can only assume that's correct.
I have had the shaft down twice, I wrote a post on here about it. Several adapters didn't work (4) it takes 10 min to get off and 15 back up. I hate every part of this design. Guess there wouldn't be so many post on the subject if they had got it right in the first place !
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,499
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
I totally agree. They improved the design slightly with the 2305 but still had a lot to do.
I've not heard any reports of the new 10 series?? Wonder if they fixed this problem with that model change??
megotatractor
Veteran Member
I've heard the 1 series is more accessible from underneath but that's not very specific. I don't recall anyone saying it was EASY?
PLUG; yes I should have considered a plug before I drilled the hole. I ended up putting the original piece back in. since I used a hole saw that piece of floor was still in tact but of course too small. Wrapped some foam tape around it and popped it back in place. I have easy access to the u-joint but cannot get a grease gun on it yet. I bought a $1.oo grease needle but the u-joints are too tight to get through the seals with a needle. I found that the needle pops into the zerk but of course grease oozes all over.if only I could find like a hard plastic tube that fits really tight over the zerk...
PLUG; yes I should have considered a plug before I drilled the hole. I ended up putting the original piece back in. since I used a hole saw that piece of floor was still in tact but of course too small. Wrapped some foam tape around it and popped it back in place. I have easy access to the u-joint but cannot get a grease gun on it yet. I bought a $1.oo grease needle but the u-joints are too tight to get through the seals with a needle. I found that the needle pops into the zerk but of course grease oozes all over.if only I could find like a hard plastic tube that fits really tight over the zerk...
mikerind
New member
I too just finished installing new spiders in the u-joints on my 2210 main driveshaft. Took me & a friend about 6 hours to do the total job. Do not buy the spiders from John Deere, or Kabota. I went to NAPA Auto parts, and bought them for $26.49 Ea. NAPA number is PUJ 410. These spiders have the zerk on one of the bearing caps. This makes it much easier to grease them with a little bit of modification. I hope I can post some pictures on here. Never done it before. Wish me luck! LOL! I took a good 1" hole saw before I installed the driveshaft, and cut a portion of the steel off the plate right below the rear U-joint. Kinda half moon like. I will be able to grease the rear one from the bottom of the tractor. For the front U-Joint, I cut a 1-1/2" hole in the steel on the left side at the bottom where the voltage Reg. is mounted. Then I cut the square hole in the base plastic so I could just order another rubber plug like the one beside it. I'll have to make up an extention for my grease gun about 12" long to grease the front one. If you look on the left hand side of the tractor, just behind the engine, you will see the teeth on the flywheel. You can turn the engine to line up the grease zerks with a big screw driver, instead of using the starter. My tractor is a 2003 model, and I had 1100 hours on it. To remove my shaft. We removed the snap ring on the front U-Joint, then drove out the role pin. Then we pushed the shaft back toward the transmixer to remove the front U-joint, then pulled it forward off the transmixer. Then slid it back & out. I hope this helps some of you folks, and saves you a ton of money over paying JD their prices for something they screwed up.
egeezy
New member
Hi Ovrszd,
I just bought a 2210 and I want to make sure the shaft is greased. So if I am reading correctly the front is easily accessible and if I cut a hole I can easily access the rear?
Once accessed just use a needle tip on my grease gun (sorry I am new to this and the 2210 is my first real tractor). Do you use polyurea grease on it or MOLY?
I just bought a 2210 and I want to make sure the shaft is greased. So if I am reading correctly the front is easily accessible and if I cut a hole I can easily access the rear?
Once accessed just use a needle tip on my grease gun (sorry I am new to this and the 2210 is my first real tractor). Do you use polyurea grease on it or MOLY?
tinkertot
New member
Can you show exactly where you cut the hole? Also, would you cut it in the same place again?
Polyurea