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  1. #11
    Veteran Member megotatractor's Avatar
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    Feb 2004
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    1,048
    Location
    New Richland, Minnesota
    Tractor
    JD 2210

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Quote Originally Posted by ADin View Post
    is there any way to easily determine whether one has excessive wear occurring short of tearing everything apart? What should I be looking for?

    Finally, start to finish, how long should it take to replace the U-joints?
    "easily" ?? NO!! In my case at about 600 hours I started noticing a vibration. By 650 hours the vibration became a disturbing shudder. Can't hardly see the joints much less get hold of them to feel for slop. Shine a flashlight into the kick panel port and take a close look for a gap along the yoke bearings and if you see a shiny space like I did order the spider bearing kits and get busy with the wrench.

  2. #12
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    98
    Location
    Indiana
    Tractor
    JD2305, 1948 B.F. Avery Model V

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Thanks both,

    This is what I somewhat expected. I have 502 hours on my JD2305 and I haven't noticed anything too obvious yet though I have recently thought that overall the tractor is running a touch louder/rougher/etc, I couldn't pin point anything specific and it may just be my imagination. I was curious if the failure is sudden or something where I have should have some level of advanced warning if I'm paying attention. Steveschultt's comment regarding having to replace the rear joint at 300 hrs has me a bit concerned and I will have to do a close inspection this weekend.

    Sounds like I may not be far from needing to schedule a Saturday tear-down.

    Megotatractor - Besides the two spiders(LVA803335), you mentioned breaking some plastic clips(??) and bending the snap ring(40M4624?). Do you happen to remember the clip part numbers (or name) of the clips you are referring to? If I end up tearing this sucker down, I want to be stocked with whatever I may need to put it back together immediately.
    JD2305 w/ 62MM, 200CX, Markham toothbar, RB1060, sprayer, Ballast,
    1948 B.F Avery (Model V)

  3. #13
    Veteran Member megotatractor's Avatar
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    Feb 2004
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    1,048
    Location
    New Richland, Minnesota
    Tractor
    JD 2210

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Quote Originally Posted by ADin View Post
    Thanks both,

    This is what I somewhat expected. I have 502 hours on my JD2305 and I haven't noticed anything too obvious yet though I have recently thought that overall the tractor is running a touch louder/rougher/etc, I couldn't pin point anything specific and it may just be my imagination. I was curious if the failure is sudden or something where I have should have some level of advanced warning if I'm paying attention. Steveschultt's comment regarding having to replace the rear joint at 300 hrs has me a bit concerned and I will have to do a close inspection this weekend.

    Sounds like I may not be far from needing to schedule a Saturday tear-down.

    Megotatractor - Besides the two spiders(LVA803335), you mentioned breaking some plastic clips(??) and bending the snap ring(40M4624?). Do you happen to remember the clip part numbers (or name) of the clips you are referring to? If I end up tearing this sucker down, I want to be stocked with whatever I may need to put it back together immediately.
    Sorry but that is exactly what I started to notice - maybe even started to notice a year earlier than I thought- that the tractor seemed louder/rougher. In retrospect I believe that was my earliest indication that there was something wrong. AFter fixing it seemed quieter and smoother. Some posts here indicate u-joint failure as early as 300 hours.
    The plastic clips that I broke or stripped out were the 4 pieces that attach the rear fenders to the back of the floorboard. M91429 unfortunately I bought them after the tractor was put back together and will have to remove the ROPS again to install them. And some of the c-clips were a bit bent from removing them from the yokes- the paint had caused them to stick and in forcing them loose I bent them.
    I think the biggest challenge in disassembly is the large c-clip that retains a roll pin in the front yoke. He requires a large, sturdy c-clip pliers that will also reach into the hole -remove the metal plate from the right side of the frame after removing the kick panel- and a long pin punch. And by all means set the clip in place alonside the slot before you reinstall the driveshaft. Makes it easy to just pound the roll pin in and pop the ring into place and done!

  4. #14
    Platinum Member Henri88's Avatar
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    Nov 2009
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    759
    Location
    Northern N.B.
    Tractor
    2008 JD 2305, 600hr

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Very good info Megotatractor. Thanks for taking the time. I'm sure this will come very handy eventually.
    Henri

    How could you be told I was french?

    Rotary cutter 4' Howse , mid mount mower 54'' , f.e. loader 200CX , tiller RT1150 Frontier , cultivator PC1001 Frontier , middle buster PM1001 Frontier , JD 47'' front snowblower , pallet forks , 4' boxblade Agriease , grass-sweeper , quick hitch Speeco , trailer hitch , cab Jodale-Perry , trailer 16' galvanized Easy-Hauler ,

  5. #15
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    8,747
    Location
    NC
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L3830

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Quote Originally Posted by ADin View Post
    Thanks both,

    This is what I somewhat expected. I have 502 hours on my JD2305 and I haven't noticed anything too obvious yet though I have recently thought that overall the tractor is running a touch louder/rougher/etc, I couldn't pin point anything specific and it may just be my imagination. I was curious if the failure is sudden or something where I have should have some level of advanced warning if I'm paying attention. Steveschultt's comment regarding having to replace the rear joint at 300 hrs has me a bit concerned and I will have to do a close inspection this weekend.

    Sounds like I may not be far from needing to schedule a Saturday tear-down.

    Megotatractor - Besides the two spiders(LVA803335), you mentioned breaking some plastic clips(??) and bending the snap ring(40M4624?). Do you happen to remember the clip part numbers (or name) of the clips you are referring to? If I end up tearing this sucker down, I want to be stocked with whatever I may need to put it back together immediately.
    On a JD2305 you can see the driveshaft and both U-joints from underneath the tractor. You can even grasp the driveshaft and pull and push to see if any slop exists. You can also grease both U-joints from underneath the tractor by using a needle point injector available at most auto supply houses. If you have never greased your U-joints, from your post it sounds like you have not, I would strongly recommend this become a top priority. It may be too late, damage could have already occured. Also I think the removal and replacement of the U-joints are different.

    Removal and replacement different. This posting is from MARKMEYER on another forum.

    I didn't have to remove any hardware to get access other than the shaft itself, and it was quite easy.

    Just slip the snap ring at the front forward, drive out the springpins (note that there are two; one inside the other), and then the shaft comes right off.

    R&R the plastic fan, reverse the above, and you're done.

    Probably the hardest part is to find an over long punch that has some reach to it to get to the pins. I cheated and used a gentle nudge from an impact gun to help the punch along so I wouldn't skin up my knuckles swinging a hammer under there.

    The only thing I thought of changing (but didn't) was maybe replacing the pins with a grade-8 bolt and nylon insert locknut. A 6mm bolt 40mm long should do the trick and be a perfect fit. The nylon insert locknut would keep it from loosening up. If doing that, forget the snap ring because it just wouldn't be needed. On a subsequent fan change, undoing the bolt and nut would probably be much simpler and easier to get to than having to drive out the pins again.
    I think the next time I have to replace the fan, I most certainly will go back with a nut and bolt.

    For people doing it for the first time, I'll point out a few things to watch for:

    1. I'll restate again that there are not one, but two roll pins to drive out on the front collar. I haven't yet figured out the "why" of the engineering, but if you drive out the inside one, you might think you're ready to slip the collar off... but you're not. Be sure to drive out the second (outside) pin using something around a 6mm straight punch.
    Of course, the rear collar at the fan has no retention scheme whatsoever (even though the 2305 Manual suggests that there is). Just slip it forward and it's off.

    2. While you're under there, take a close look at the rubber coupler at the front end that's bolted to the flywheel. It's designed to fail "gently" by the bolt sleeves sliding out, so just take a look as long as you're getting dirty.

    3. There's a bearing inside a cup that is inside that rubber couple. If your tractor is low time, the bearing is probably in fine shape. But if you have lots of hours on your tractor, it's not that hard to unbolt the coupler from the flywheel and remove and inspect the bearing for smooth operation. A new one is only $6 (greenfarmparts) so if you doubt the condition of the bearing at all, just slip in a new one.

    4. By the way, don't even think of smacking the driveshaft where the spider bearings are to knock it off. There should be no reason to force it all, and if you must, spray some WD40 on both ends of the shaft to loosen it up if it's a little "rusty stuck". A gentle tap is all you should need (if at all). While doing this, do not forget that the shaft assemble ONLY comes as an assembly, so if you knock one of the bearing cup holders out of whack, it won't last long before the bearing is destroyed and you'll need a new shaft assembly (somewhere around $550 or so... I checked).

    5. You don't have to remove the gold crossbar just in front of the fan to install it, but you of course have to loosen the two fan shield bolts and slip the shield off (just loosen those bolts because the fan shield attach points are slotted).
    The fan's blades are very flexible, so what you do is slip it up from behind the crossbar at an angle, bend the blades at the top back a little to clear the underside of the floorboard until the shaft hole of the fan just slips over the shaft. You'll have to bend the blades at the bottom a little as well where they contact the gold crossbar. That's it, you're on.

    6. Naturally, grease the spiders on both ends of the shaft while it's out.

    I'd like to make it sound more difficult but I can't. If it takes you more than an hour or so to change out the fan, then you're drinking too much beer during the process. With the beer and chatting with friends and changing out the music CD's, it took me about 3 hours this first time.

    I might take 4 hours the next time I do it because I ran out of beer this time way too early.
    Last edited by Gator6x4; 12-08-2012 at 11:16 AM.

  6. #16
    New Member steveschlutt's Avatar
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    Feb 2008
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    21
    Location
    St. Joseph Michigan
    Tractor
    John Deere 2210

    Default

    I completed the reassembly today (except the ROPs) and fired up my 2210 with fresh U-joints. It felt like VELVET! Much smoother than it's been in the past months. Can really feel the difference.
    Thanks for all the tips. I also cut a neat new access hole in floorboard as suggested in another thread, perfectly matching the access plug from the kick panel. Ready to grease at next service. And soon, will be ready to plow.

  7. #17
    Veteran Member megotatractor's Avatar
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    New Richland, Minnesota
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    JD 2210

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Quote Originally Posted by steveschlutt View Post
    SUCCESS! Got the shaft removed without too much trouble. Thanks Gator6x4 for mentioning the metal plate on the right side-- it is really the only way to get the C-clip and 2 roll pins removed. I bought a set of roll pin punches, made it pretty easy-- removing the C-clip (in pieces!) was much more difficult.
    There is one cup that is simply annilhilated. The joint has begun to chew into the yoke, but it appears small and isolated, I am hoping it won't affect anything once a new cup is installed. That sucker was DRY as a BONE- i wonder if Deere forgot to lube that one from the factory.
    Got new joints on order, plus new pins and C-clip. For the reinstall, I am wondering if I can premount the C-clip on the yoke stub beside the slot, and then once the pins are tapped in, simply pull it so it clicks in place into the slot-- has anyone tried this?
    Thanks to all for your advice, it gave me the guts to try this.
    Attachment 291390Attachment 291391Attachment 291392

    Yep, my '03 2210 had failed driveshaft bearings at around 700 hours. There was nothing left of the bearings but a reddish powder! I have yet to find a way to grease the rear u joint even after cutting a hole in the floorboard so I have a feeling that in the next couple years I'm going to have to dissassemble the whole thing again! Now at over 900 hours.

    As for re-installing the C clip, I recall doing it exactly as you describe.




    and...


    HAS ANYONE FOUND A GREASE GUN TIP THAT FITS INSIDE THESE YOKES????? I CANNOT BELIEVE THAT THERE ISN'T SOMETHING OUT THERE!

  8. #18
    New Member steveschlutt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    21
    Location
    St. Joseph Michigan
    Tractor
    John Deere 2210

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Just worked on this again, 3 years after changing the Ujoint. Have tried different fittings, needles, and tips, and just couldn't get any grease in there. Finally had success- took a grease gun tip, and ground the tip way down, made it pretty slender. Was finally able to pump some grease in those joints. Difficult to work through those small access panels while squatting & bending. But it sure feels good knowing I pumped some grease in there.

  9. #19
    New Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1
    Location
    Near Rochester, NY

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Hi all,
    I joined the 2210 club last year and had to replace the hydro fan after it lost a battle with a branch. I learned about the driveshaft while doing research on fan replacement. To say thanks and help others, I did a video of the repair.
    http://www.youtube.com/attribution_l...m-upload_owner

    Hope it helps,
    Bill

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