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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    19
    Location
    St. Joseph Michigan
    Tractor
    John Deere 2210

    Default Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    I'm a longtime lurker and reader, but seldom post. But today I need some help.
    I have an '03 2210, 632 hours, and have the common and dreaded main driveshaft/U-Joint problem. The rear joint was fine, I replaced that one a few years back when I replaced the broken hydro cooling fan. But I've discovered that now the front one is shot, has mega-slop in it, difficult to tell yet if it has damaged the yokes.
    So here's where I'm at-- after some grumbling and a few skinned knuckles, the machine is all torn down --ROPS, fenders, floor, kick-panel etc all removed. Rear u-joint is separated. But I don't see anyway to get up under there to separate the front joint, or get the shaft loose. If I could get the shaft out, I might have a good shot at this repair. I don't have a manual or diagram of the shaft-- does anyone possess that? What do i have to remove to pull the shaft off the front spline? Someone referred to a big C-clip and a Roll pin, but I can barely even see the shaft forward of the U-joint. How the heck can you gain enough access to remove these things in order to remove the shaft? And how the heck would you replace them when the repair is finished?

    I would REALLY appreciate advice... I'm in SW Michigan, and am nervously watching the weather for signs of snow, as this machine is my only means of pushing snow on my larger-than-life driveway (400 feet plus). Or if there is anyone local (Berrien County) that is skilled at this repair, I'd be happy to reward you admirably for your help in removing the shaft and fixing the U-joints.

    And believe me-- if i can get this repair complete, i'll be greasing those joints minimum once yearly, maybe even twice. I don't ever want to do this repair again!
    Steve S.

  2. #2
    New Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    1
    Tractor
    John Deere 2210

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    I just had mine done at the dealer....Two forty dollar joints and the rest labor...700 all total....OOOOuch!
    He told me there was a lock type ring or c-clip and you need a long punch type of tool (18" I believe) to reach it.
    To grease the front you can make a 12" straight tube adapter for your grease gun to reach from the access panel on the left side of the kick panel.
    To grease the rear u-joint, the dealer made me an L shaped adapter. Much harder to reach but you can get to it from underneath.
    Enter from the front of the shield and reach toward the rear joint. Note the top of the L shaped adapter had to be grounded flat to get into the tight space. The tips of the grease tube fittings may have to be grounded to get into the space of the joint. The drive shafts are at a slight angle so the grease gun fitting can only be used at these particular spots/angle. (pointing towards the left side of tractor) I found that when you shut down the tractor the u-joints always stop in the same place (zirk's pointing to the left) so be sure to note the direction the zirk fittings are pointing and replace in the same direction. I discovered this after cutting a 2" hole from the floor and attempting to reach the zirk fitting from the top. Hope this helps and good luck....-img_1730-jpg-img_1731-jpg-img_1732-jpg-img_1726-jpg

  3. #3
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,961
    Location
    NC
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L3830

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Review the information posted in this thread: JD2210 upper driveshaft service/grease You may find some information that will assist you.

  4. #4
    New Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    19
    Location
    St. Joseph Michigan
    Tractor
    John Deere 2210

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    I visited the dealer today, and they told me that the U-joints are now available separately from the shaft. $40 each. The clerk appeared surprised, previously these joints weren't available. John Deere must have heard some complaints about this problem. They'll be here Wednesday. I am hoping these replacement joints have a zerk for greasing. I also got the 2 part roll pins and C-clip. I'm going to try it... For those of you who have removed this shaft at the front joint, do you have any advice? Where best to access, tools to use, removing the c-clip, etc?

  5. #5
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,961
    Location
    NC
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L3830

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Megotatractor posted this information:

    I posted the story elsewhere on these forums but I had to disassemble the entire tractor; ROPS, fender, floor, cowl, and dash. Then do the ship-in-a-bottle operation through a small steel plate in the right side of the frame to release a large C-clip from the front ujoint in order to remove the driveshaft.

    Then after he finished he posted this:

    Now I know, to access the front u-joint remove the kick panel below the dash and a metal plate on the right side of the frame!

  6. #6
    Platinum Member etcallhome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    654
    Location
    WV,Preston County
    Tractor
    JD 1026R

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Search replacing trans fan. I posted here or My tractor forum of how to get the front shaft off.
    Have fun and be safe !!!

    JD1026R H120 fel w/54"bucket; 60" mmm ; 260 BH/w 12" bucket; ballast box; rear weights; front quick hitch w/angling kit and 54 " blade ;3pt rear 60" blade ; JD 47" frt snowblower ; Original Tractor Cab;Bush Hog 47" tiller and 15" Middle Buster

  7. #7
    New Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    19
    Location
    St. Joseph Michigan
    Tractor
    John Deere 2210

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    SUCCESS! Got the shaft removed without too much trouble. Thanks Gator6x4 for mentioning the metal plate on the right side-- it is really the only way to get the C-clip and 2 roll pins removed. I bought a set of roll pin punches, made it pretty easy-- removing the C-clip (in pieces!) was much more difficult.
    There is one cup that is simply annilhilated. The joint has begun to chew into the yoke, but it appears small and isolated, I am hoping it won't affect anything once a new cup is installed. That sucker was DRY as a BONE- i wonder if Deere forgot to lube that one from the factory.
    Got new joints on order, plus new pins and C-clip. For the reinstall, I am wondering if I can premount the C-clip on the yoke stub beside the slot, and then once the pins are tapped in, simply pull it so it clicks in place into the slot-- has anyone tried this?
    Thanks to all for your advice, it gave me the guts to try this.
    -shaft3-jpg-shaft2-jpg-shaft1-jpg

  8. #8
    Platinum Member etcallhome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    654
    Location
    WV,Preston County
    Tractor
    JD 1026R

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    Glad you got it apart, I didn't know about that metal plate. That had to make the job much easier.
    Have fun and be safe !!!

    JD1026R H120 fel w/54"bucket; 60" mmm ; 260 BH/w 12" bucket; ballast box; rear weights; front quick hitch w/angling kit and 54 " blade ;3pt rear 60" blade ; JD 47" frt snowblower ; Original Tractor Cab;Bush Hog 47" tiller and 15" Middle Buster

  9. #9
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    97
    Location
    Indiana
    Tractor
    JD2305, 1948 B.F. Avery Model V

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    is there any way to easily determine whether one has excessive wear occurring short of tearing everything apart? What should I be looking for?

    Finally, start to finish, how long should it take to replace the U-joints?
    JD2305 w/ 62MM, 200CX, Markham toothbar, RB1060, sprayer, Ballast,
    1948 B.F Avery (Model V)

  10. #10
    New Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    19
    Location
    St. Joseph Michigan
    Tractor
    John Deere 2210

    Default Re: Another 2210 U-Joint problem!

    I discovered my problem after reading posts here. I then thought "Hey, I changed the rear joint at 300 hours, but have never even glanced at the front one, now have 632 hours." So I pulled the inspection port (near your left foot when aboard) and peered in there with a light. Mine were as loose as they could possibly be without actually breaking the yokes. It was especially apparent when I watched as I turned the engine off, or restarted it. There was a LOT of slop and rattling as metal clanked on metal. After disassembly, one yoke hole has a slight elongation, I am hopng it won't matter once the new cup is installed. Gonna watch that one closely for signs of wear.
    I probably have 1.5 to 2 hours in tear down, plus 30-40 minutes in shaft removal. On the reassembly, I expect it will go a bit quicker. I'll probably leave my ROPS off until spring, as the machine will not leave the pavement until then. Don't tell OSHA. There about 12 bolts that hold the ROPS, an Impact or Air Rachet would speed this up a bit.

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