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  1. #1
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    Apr 2004
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    15

    Default John Deere 5083E

    Hello all,
    I have a 2010 5083E Limited and was wondering how I would go about finding out if there is an easy way to get 101E performance out of it. I believe they use the same turbo and injectors, I was thinking it was just a pump adjustment, however, someone mentioned they thought the 101E may have different pistons. Anyone care to chime in? For the record the tractor has been great and problem free. I have all four tires loaded with rimguard and notice that seeding in the hills requires lower ground speeds, hence the desire for a bit more power.
    Thank you in advance.
    Tim-john-deere-dodge-jpg

  2. #2
    Veteran Member wmonroe's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
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    2,133
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    Southwestern, PA
    Tractor
    1958 Ford 961 Powermaster

    Default Re: John Deere 5083E

    Cant help with how to turn the pump up but the first thing i would do is add a EGT gauge and get a good baseline of you exhaust temperatures now before you add any more fuel. I would find out what the wastegate setting is on your tractor and then see if it is set any different on the 101E, will proabably want a boost gauge to get it dialed in also.

    Nice looking truck!
    Kubota L5240 with loader and backhoe

    1958 Ford 961 Powermaster LP

  3. #3
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    1,068
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    NC

    Default Re: John Deere 5083E

    That's a pretty big no till drill for that tractor, how well does it handle it or is that why you need more power?
    '11 John Deere 5065M /cab
    '10 Kubota L3940 w/FEL
    '09 JD X720
    '91 CaseIH 5140 Maxxum w/cab
    '78 IH 686 w/M&W Turbo 106 PTO hp w/canopy

  4. #4
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    131
    Tractor
    john deere 5093 4x4

    Default Re: John Deere 5083E

    Hi TLM I my self own a 5093e and I also would like to crank it up to the 5101.My tractor is a 2010 year and the warranty is thru. Ive had no problems with this tractor to say. I called my dealer about turning up the fuel etc..... they didn seemed interested when i called because of the warranty . I told them as far as Im concerned this tractor was underpowered for its size, Before any buddy says I should have bought bigger this is not my first rodeo around equipment . Far from it Ive owned several tractors and I run heavy equipment for a living.I know a little about equipment,enough to get it started LOL.I bought this tractor with the impression it would do all I wanted and more based on the dealer and salesmans knowledge. I should have known better all they want to do is sell.O well my mistake, it does the job i do but it would be nice if it had more power.I asked the dealer later he said he might know some one that could fix me up,but I ve not talked or looked into it any further. I would like the same info as U,if there is any to be had. If i can get mine cranked up I will let u know ,Im going to look into it again .IMO U can never have enough power, I wish i had looked into it before buying. just my 0.02cts. good luck to U!

  5. #5
    Veteran Member wmonroe's Avatar
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    1958 Ford 961 Powermaster

    Default

    Double post
    Kubota L5240 with loader and backhoe

    1958 Ford 961 Powermaster LP

  6. #6
    Veteran Member wmonroe's Avatar
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    1958 Ford 961 Powermaster

    Default

    This place has programmers for the electronic 6000 and up series tractors. You could try calling them it looks like they would know what all would be needed to turn up the mechanical injected 5000 tractors.

    http://illinoisdynocenter.org/site/m...eere.html#2778
    Kubota L5240 with loader and backhoe

    1958 Ford 961 Powermaster LP

  7. #7
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    Default Re: John Deere 5083E

    Thanks for the responses,
    The no-till is a 15'. The 5083 does a commendable job, really no complaints, when the terrain gets hilly you just have to shift down, I now have a greater understanding of the "why 24 & 32 speed transmissions". The two biggest things that I have discovered are not noticing the biased ply tires (ordered without seeing first hand and I just missed it) is more than just a small oversite and weight is King (probably why I would like more horsepower as I have added a fair amount of weight). This is a mechanical controlled motor so no "chips". I am hoping to not have to install a pillar full of guages (this is a wage earner so no hotrodding) hoping I can follow the factory path. The Dodge was a great truck the Ford that replaced it gets 3-4 mpg better! Thanks guys, I am still researching as well.
    Tim

  8. #8
    Member skoalman12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    40
    Location
    TX,TX
    Tractor
    2013 5083e

    Default Re: John Deere 5083E

    Quote Originally Posted by TLM View Post
    Thanks for the responses,
    The no-till is a 15'. The 5083 does a commendable job, really no complaints, when the terrain gets hilly you just have to shift down,
    Tim
    Im buying a 2013 5083 today... That is awesome that it can handle a 15' no till drill.... I live in flat land. This is great!

  9. #9
    Platinum Member
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    Sep 2006
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    Fairmont, WV
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    2007 Kubota BX24

    Default

    If it is all mechanical, then add more fuel and air. My guess would be that you aren't going to get much more boost out of the Turbo at stock, so the first thing will probably be a new or rebuilding your existing Turbo to get more air. Really the only exception I see in that is that it is already running too lean in the first place.

    If it is all mechanical system then any decent diesel mechanic should be able to help.

    The guages would just help to let you know right before the melt down.

    And before some body yells at me, I'm not a mechanic so my comments are in general not exact.

    Why anyone would trust a dealer in the first place is a mystery to me.
    Brian

    2008 2500HD CC SB Duramax 6.6L
    2005 Suzuki Eiger
    2009 Rubicon 4-wheeler
    2011 John Deere 2520, FEL, and 62D belly mower, 6 foot box blade, 6 foot rear blade, a set of pallet forks, a 5 foot brush hog.

  10. #10
    Elite Member AKfish's Avatar
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    Kasilof, Alaska
    Tractor
    JD 5075M; JD 110 TLB; Ford Ferguson 9N: JD X300R

    Default Re: John Deere 5083E

    Quote Originally Posted by megaboz View Post
    If it is all mechanical, then add more fuel and air. My guess would be that you aren't going to get much more boost out of the Turbo at stock, so the first thing will probably be a new or rebuilding your existing Turbo to get more air. Really the only exception I see in that is that it is already running too lean in the first place.

    If it is all mechanical system then any decent diesel mechanic should be able to help.

    The guages would just help to let you know right before the melt down.

    And before some body yells at me, I'm not a mechanic so my comments are in general not exact.

    Why anyone would trust a dealer in the first place is a mystery to me.
    Most tractors built in the past 10 years have some elements of digital control. The cab e models from Deere are no exception to that reality... that's why there's a section in the Owner's Manual that lists and explains the most common error codes that are displayed in the instrument cluster.

    The ECM (Electronic Control Module) will generate those codes for your viewing pleasure (or not...) when something goes canty-whompus with your tractor!

    My "Plain Jane" nearly-as-simple-as-they-can-make-'em; JD110 TLB has an ECM which will beep codes to inform you that something needs to be looked at!

    So... long-story-short; this discussion regarding "cheap horsepower" has been kicked around here on TBN many, many times -- and most everyone that has posted here after diligent research -- has come to the conclusion... that it's "cheaper" to get what you really need horsepower-wise before you load it on the trailer!

    AKfish
    "Most people want to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while you're climbing it."

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