JD 5303 Front Drive Shaft Guard

[deere5105]

The bend was more than I initially suspected. Laying on the ground looking up at a 6" piece of the shaft obviously wasn't the best inspection process! Once removed and on the flat floor it was very obvious. I have found a drive line specialist not too far from me, but the first shop I am going to stated if they couldn't straighten it they could have one custom built to match the soecs of the OEM one. If I recall correctly, the new one from JD was around $500. Hoping I can save a little off of that.

Guy I use for ATV repair looked at it and had an idea of a machinist cutting ends off of bent shaft and welding ends on a new piece of pipe. I don't doubt that it would work, but realize it won't be as easy as that sounds. I suspect keeping the ends centered and true to a new piece of pipe will be the greatest challenge of that procedure. Leads me to feeling safer leaving it to the specialists with experience with drive lines.

 

[mjncad]

If they can't bend it back, and end up doing surgery on it; just make sure they get the U-joints in proper phase, that the shaft is straight, and it's properly balanced.

 

[AKfish]

If they can't bend it back, and end up doing surgery on it; just make sure they get the U-joints in proper phase, that the shaft is straight, and it's properly balanced.

The bend is significant. I'm gonna bet you're looking at a rebuild or new shaft. After looking at your first pics - it looks like the shaft came in contact with the engine oil pan. If that's really the case - you might seriously consider having the front differential pinion shaft looked at, too.

It might need some TLC, too.

Good luck.

AKfish

 

[Zebrafive]

If they can't bend it back, and end up doing surgery on it; just make sure they get the U-joints in proper phase, that the shaft is straight, and it's properly balanced.

Good advice if it had u-joints.

 

[mjncad]

Oops Zebra...You're right, I goofed...I was thinking cars and trucks when I wrote my post. Good catch.

 

[Zebrafive]

Oops Zebra...You're right, I goofed...I was thinking cars and trucks when I wrote my post. Good catch.

Still good advice if it had u-joints. I bought a Ford Bronco that had a lift kit and former owner lengthened the rear drive shaft, but paid no attention to the u-joints, they out of phase 45 degrees and it ate u-joints. I had to have it cut and rewelded.

 

[deere5105]

Sunday evening we had an EF4 tornado pass through a few miles north of us. Working with an electric utility has had me tied up. Managed to get shaft dropped off today. Gentleman felt like he could cut ends off and replace the middle section without much problem if it couldn't be straightened. Stated looked like heavy wall 2" pipe would match and would weld it on a lathe. This is a big truck shop and they do good work. Will see how it goes from here. Thought he could have it ready to go in a couple of days. End alignment shouldn't be a big issue as I think I can turn the gear end to make it match up.

 

[deere5105]

Picked up drive shaft today. Cut ends, replaced center, welded ends and painted for $150. Hope to get it back together tomorrow. Much better price than the JD OEM shaft at around $500.

 

[deere5105]

Repair went very well. Took about 30 minutes to get it all lined back up. Was curious what the cotter pins accomplished as I could not find a hole through anything other than the sleeve to line up. It finally dawned on me that it went through the center of the sleeve and stayed in between the two shaft ends. The pin keeps the sleeve from sliding and possilbly causing the shaft to drop out of alignment. Meant to get a picture of the repaired shaft, but got into the job and forgot about it till it was too late. Thankful for such a simple design that I was able to perform the parts replacements myself.

 

[mjncad]

Very good...a story with a happy ending.