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It is an acceptable way to secure the loader itself, not the tractor. The front axle still must be secured by itself. The D.O.T officers want to see secured loaders and attachments, as well as a secured machine. The reason for this is because it is possible for the loader to move itself in transit if it is not chained down.
Thanks for the link.
So, using something like this drawbar hook, CountyLineŽ Drawbar Hook - 0268080 | Tractor Supply Company , can you tie down the rear end of the tractor using only one chain, or do you need to have two drawbar hooks, one going to one rear corner of the trailer, and another going to the other rear corner of the trailer? I assume you need two, but want to double check. I also assume you can just put the second hook in the next hole in the drawbar, so they are one in front of the other?
MD DOT states that under 10,000 lbs you need two chains, two binders and four contact points to the trailer. One chain securing the front of the tractor and the other securing the rear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston
Over 10,000 lbs you need four seperate chains, four binders and four contact points to the trailer.
I think you can do it with two hooks and two chains as you described. I'm just not sure if the second hook would be too far back on the drawbar and the chain would be up against the rear tire.
One chain across the front and rear is enough for this size tractor and as JD Tank said secure the implements also.
I usually chain the rear of my tractors down through the frame where the drawbar attaches to the tractor. Sometimes there is enough room to slip the chain through without removing the drawbar, and other times I'll slide the drawbar out, run the chain through and replace it.
Using individual chains at each corner of the load not only eliminates the possibly of things sliding sideways, but also keeps everything better secured if one chain were to loosen or break. This is another thing that you will see professional truckers do.
Another thing to keep in mind is to make sure your front and back chains are in a V shape pulling against each other. Another way to put it is have the front chain not only holding the load down, but also pulling it forward. Have the rear chain pulling backwards. The angle doesn't have to be much. This keeps things from being able to rock forward and back.
I've used a clevis or hook on the drawbar before, but always prefer going directly to the frame or a built in attaching point. Not that it makes anything less secure, but you now have more that can go wrong. The best chains and load binders aren't going to prevent a clevis pin or bolt from working loose.
If you really want to see the best way to chain down your tractor for transport, stop by the dealer when a semi is there unloading some new ones. Then you can see how the guys that haul them every day do it. Thy are going to have a chain or strap on every corner and one over any attachment. Not only is it the law, but the their insurance companies require it as well.
Here's another good tip for hooking the trailer end of your chain. Drop the hook through the stake pocket and then bring it up the outside of the pocket to the left or right hooking the end over the top of the pocket. This lets gravity keep the end of the chain from coming off if the chain does get loose.
Can't count the number of times I've been driving down the road and see the end of someone's chain or strap swinging in the breeze or dragging on the ground. Having a loose strap or chain is never good, but totally unhooked at one end means the only thing holding the load down is luck.
On my backhoe it has built in tie points and I use four chains and binders to secure it. I have an additional 12k strap for the fel.
The tractor is a little different, I remove the drawbar at the rear and run the chains through the hole in the center of the drawbar mounting, one to each side. On the front I added two heavy 5/8" plates with 4 grade 8 bolts to the frame and run a chain through them to each front corner with binders. Here's pics of the front tie points I made.
I took a look under my tractor "the back end" there are 2 channels one on top of the other I'm assming that this is where the drawbar slides into ? Where do I purchase a drawbar from, the one at tractor supply has pins on each end and look like it's made to connect up to the arms of my 3 point hitch . Also how is the drawbar connected to the tractor ?
Just one last question for this evening anyway. Can I use straps instead of chains ? I can get things tighter with straps
You actually don't need to add an additional drawbar, what I'm referring to is the drawbar mount that is already part of the tractor. The two channels you see are part of the drawbar support. I'll try to take a picture of my 4720 tomorrow, but you want to use the space that is where the factory drawbar goes in. On some models you need to slide the drawbar out to make enough room for the chain hooks to get through.
Straps are an acceptable alternative, but you need to be carful that nothing can rub and cut them either while securing the load, or while going down the road. You'd be surprised how tight you can get things with chains. Take up the slack as much as you can before hooking up the load binder. The first time you close the binder, it will pull some more slack, an you'll have to open the binder and move the hook a link or two. Once you get it the right tension, a short piece of cheater pipe on the handle will help get it over center (just watch your fingers). Take the extra slack chain and wrap it around the binder, and secure with a piece of wire or a rubber strap.
thanks everyone for all your helpful information . I think I got it now and the kids in the bus driven by the nun will be safe , well from me anyway.