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  1. #1
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    93
    Tractor
    John Deere 3320

    Default How do you secure your JD 3320 to a trailer.?

    My second time hauling my JD 3320 by trailer occured this morning. Now I'm the type that has visions of my tractor falling off of the trailer while on an overpass and landing on top of a filled school bus being driven by a nun. Because it's my deep desire never to be featured on National News I have obsessed over the best way to secure the 3320 .

    I figured a very straight forward way to secure the front of the 3320 to the trailor. I wrap a single chain through the front axel on both sides and then tighten the chain . Straight forward and easy to do. Securing the rear of the tractor is at best problemactic for me . I was snaking the chain over the 3 point hitch arms which worked but I'm sure isn't the best way to do it. The tractor stayed on the trailer and I avoided the evening news , for today anyway.

    My question is: There has to be a recommended or optimal way to secure a 3320 to a trailer . How have you folks secured your 3320 ? I would appreciate suggestions.

  2. #2
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    424
    Location
    Enid, OK
    Tractor
    2012 John Deere 3720 eHydro

    Default Re: How do you secure your JD 3320 to a trailer.?

    Quote Originally Posted by pokerboy57 View Post
    My question is: There has to be a recommended or optimal way to secure a 3320 to a trailer . How have you folks secured your 3320 ? I would appreciate suggestions.
    I have a clevis on the drawbar with two chains...two ratchets.

    Instead, try to picture the tires fused to the trailer and having to winch if OFF the trailer. It won't change anything but will preserve your sanity and hairline.

  3. #3
    Platinum Member JDTank's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    686

    Default Re: How do you secure your JD 3320 to a trailer.?

    I can offer some advice to you.

    First off, I was a long haul trucker for many years, I even owned my own rig. I worked for a company called Q-Line Trucking in Saskatchewan. I was a heavy hauler all across North America, with this kind of freight:
    http://i1.wp.com/qlinetrucking.dream...it=1024%2C1024

    One of the first things I will say is never, ever, secure a piece of equipment by it's attachments or accessories. If you decide to tie down the loader arms, and not the front axle, thinking it is safe because the loader is attached to the tractor, you have made a huge mistake. It is illegal to secure equipment by an attachment. Attachments MUST be tied down separately. Simply put, if you have a front end loader on with, let's say a bucket, the bucket needs to be secured on it's own. This can be tricky because while you cannot secure a tractor solely by securing the front end loader, you do not have to tie down the loader arms as an attachment, unless you have no attachment hooked to the loader arms. If the loader is on, but no attachment is present, secure the loader where an attachment would have been. If your loader arms have a support tube running from side to side that is open, run a chain through that tube to the other side. Be prepared to take hooks off as they do not always fit sometimes. Simply put the hook back on once you fish it through.

    Never tie down a tractor by the 3PT either. It can and will bleed down, and your chain will be loose when this happens. As I already stated, you cannot legally tie down a machine by attachments or hydraulic parts that are in travel (meaning part way extended)

    The correct way to tie down a tractor, would be chaining the axles at each wheel, usually in a cross chain pattern, or an X if you will. Make sure the chains do not touch each other where they cross, this is a ticket-able offense.

    One thing I see a lot of is people who put a smaller excavator bucket, inside of the bigger one that is mounted to the machine or backhoe. They curl the buckets in thinking it is OK. This is NOT ACCEPTABLE. Hydraulic cylinders are not guaranteed to keep things in place. If you have any leak down whatsoever, the buckets will be loose. You CANNOT rely on your hydraulic system to hold itself in place, it is illegal to do so.

    Rub rails. Never hook a chain, or strap, to the outside rail on the side of your trailer deck. This long flat piece of metal is a rub rail, it is not meant for chains or straps. Stake pockets are the proper place for chain hooks, and straps should be run behind the rub rail, and hooked under the lip of the trailer. Not following this is an offense as well, and illegal. Why? Well, if you put your straps on the OUTSIDE of the rub rail, and a car side swipes you, chances are good they will be cut and your load is now loose. If your straps are behind the rub rail, it is much less likely for this to happen.

    Do not use cheap, thin chain. I never use anything less than 3/8, grade 70. Your tie downs have to meet state and federal laws. Having chain of the wrong thickness, or wrong grade, is again, a ticket-able offence.

    This is a subject that really makes me mad, because everyday I see people who throw stuff in their pickup bed, and just take off, without securing it. You can never assume something will stay put. Even an unsecured gas can is inexcusable in my book. A load is a load, whether it is 5 pounds or 200,000 pounds, it has to be secured.

    I've had loads that would make others cringe, give up and walk away. There is ALWAYS a way to properly secure a load. Whenever you are hauling something, anything, stand back and look at it. Now pretend you are the incredible Hulk, turn your trailer and load upside down in your mind. Would it stay on with your tie down job? My motto is even if I get in a wreck, or go down a mountain side, the load will still be attached to my trailer. I have spent hours securing loads, because it's the right thing to do. If your in a hurry, change your schedule, don't put 1 less chain on, because it might mean someones life, or your own.

  4. #4
    Gold Member LHS Inc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    357
    Location
    Eastern Shore, Maryland
    Tractor
    JD 3520 eHydro w/300CX FEL

    Default Re: How do you secure your JD 3320 to a trailer.?

    I trailer my JD 3520 by having two clevis d-shakles attached to the front of the frame. I slide the chain thru and attach on each side to the stake pockets and tighten with a ratchet binder.

    It takes two of the clevises to make this work on the front of the tractor. One small one to fit the frame with a big one hanging from the small one for the chain to slide thru. They are rated for 5000 lbs.

    I have been using a clevis on the draw bar to run a chain thru and secure to the stake pockets but I'm going to change that because tractor could slide from side to side. I've seen a hook at TSC you can affix to the drawbar with a pin that would keep the chain from sliding thru but you'd have to make sure you had equal tension on both sides.

    In this case maybe turn the hook away from the binder side and any slack would be taken up with the hook somewhere close to the center of the drawbar after its tightened.

    I use all G70 chains and binders.
    JD3520 eHydro, 300CX FEL, Frontier RB 1172 6', Frontier CA2060E, Frontier RC 1060, LandPride FSP 1000 3pt Spinner Spreader, Leibach 6' Disc, Leibach 2 bottom plow, Ford 5' 3pt finish mower, Kubota ZD-28, Gravely 14 hp 50" walk behind, Stihl Trimmers and Pruners, Diamond 18' Landscape Trailer, 13' High Side trailer, 2001 Chevy 2500 HD 4x4, 2000 Chevy 1500 Z71, JD4010, 3210 Bush Hog 10' Rotary Cutter


    IF YOU DO WHAT YOU'VE ALWAYS DONE YOU"LL GET WHAT YOU"VE ALWAYS GOTTEN.

  5. #5
    Elite Member Piston's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    2,523
    Location
    Central MA, Lakes Region NH
    Tractor
    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410

    Default

    JDTank,

    Thank you for that VERY informative post!


    Can you guys expand on what you use for "Clevis" hooks? Especially in regards to the drawbar?
    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410 - WR Long 64" Grapple (best attachment ever!) QA front forks, rear forks, Brown 472 HD Rotary Mower, Land Pride RBT4096 hydro blade, Woods 7200 Power Rake, homemade 3 pt log splitter, Land Pride rake/blade combo, Land Pride HRL 3578 box blade (Hydro scarifiers), Shaver SC50 3 pt. Stumpgrinder, FitRiteHydraulics TnT, 6" Vermeer PTO Chipper (Hydro feed), Disc Plow, Ratchet Rake, LP HD25 Hydraulic PHD, Woodmizer LT15 portable sawmill
    Rear Remotes Install

  6. #6
    Gold Member LHS Inc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    357
    Location
    Eastern Shore, Maryland
    Tractor
    JD 3520 eHydro w/300CX FEL

    Default Re: How do you secure your JD 3320 to a trailer.?

    Quote Originally Posted by Piston View Post
    JDTank,

    Thank you for that VERY informative post!


    Can you guys expand on what you use for "Clevis" hooks? Especially in regards to the drawbar?
    Go on the Tractor Supply website and search for drawbar hook and that should show you one. I haven't got one yet but I'm going to before I start hauling my tractor again.

    It doesn't take the place of the clevis in my toolbox but I think it will serve me well when securing my tractor to the trailer.
    JD3520 eHydro, 300CX FEL, Frontier RB 1172 6', Frontier CA2060E, Frontier RC 1060, LandPride FSP 1000 3pt Spinner Spreader, Leibach 6' Disc, Leibach 2 bottom plow, Ford 5' 3pt finish mower, Kubota ZD-28, Gravely 14 hp 50" walk behind, Stihl Trimmers and Pruners, Diamond 18' Landscape Trailer, 13' High Side trailer, 2001 Chevy 2500 HD 4x4, 2000 Chevy 1500 Z71, JD4010, 3210 Bush Hog 10' Rotary Cutter


    IF YOU DO WHAT YOU'VE ALWAYS DONE YOU"LL GET WHAT YOU"VE ALWAYS GOTTEN.

  7. #7
    Silver Member v8only's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    188
    Location
    Mb
    Tractor
    1988 John Deere 755

    Default Re: How do you secure your JD 3320 to a trailer.?

    found this thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/k...-my-l3400.html

    i am sure it will help.
    1988 John Deere 755
    52 Loader
    JD 59 Front mount snowblower
    60" MMM
    MFWD
    48" JD Model 40 tiller

    Craftsman YS4500
    22 Hp Briggs & Stratton

  8. #8
    Gold Member LHS Inc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    357
    Location
    Eastern Shore, Maryland
    Tractor
    JD 3520 eHydro w/300CX FEL

    Default Re: How do you secure your JD 3320 to a trailer.?

    Quote Originally Posted by v8only View Post
    found this thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/k...-my-l3400.html

    i am sure it will help.
    Yep that's it.
    JD3520 eHydro, 300CX FEL, Frontier RB 1172 6', Frontier CA2060E, Frontier RC 1060, LandPride FSP 1000 3pt Spinner Spreader, Leibach 6' Disc, Leibach 2 bottom plow, Ford 5' 3pt finish mower, Kubota ZD-28, Gravely 14 hp 50" walk behind, Stihl Trimmers and Pruners, Diamond 18' Landscape Trailer, 13' High Side trailer, 2001 Chevy 2500 HD 4x4, 2000 Chevy 1500 Z71, JD4010, 3210 Bush Hog 10' Rotary Cutter


    IF YOU DO WHAT YOU'VE ALWAYS DONE YOU"LL GET WHAT YOU"VE ALWAYS GOTTEN.

  9. #9
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    661
    Location
    Central Maine

    Default Re: How do you secure your JD 3320 to a trailer.?

    I tie my tractors down with 4 chains the way JDTANK described. It's safe and it's worth it to secure my investment and if for some reason I get stopped it's legal.

  10. #10
    Platinum Member Red Horse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    734
    Location
    Bolton, MA
    Tractor
    Deere 655ZTrak, Deere 4720 Cab, 400 X

    Default Re: How do you secure your JD 3320 to a trailer.?

    Quote Originally Posted by JDTank View Post
    I can offer some advice to you.

    First off, I was a long haul trucker for many years, I even owned my own rig. I worked for a company called Q-Line Trucking in Saskatchewan. I was a heavy hauler all across North America, with this kind of freight:
    http://i1.wp.com/qlinetrucking.dream...it=1024%2C1024

    One of the first things I will say is never, ever, secure a piece of equipment by it's attachments or accessories. If you decide to tie down the loader arms, and not the front axle, thinking it is safe because the loader is attached to the tractor, you have made a huge mistake. It is illegal to secure equipment by an attachment. Attachments MUST be tied down separately. Simply put, if you have a front end loader on with, let's say a bucket, the bucket needs to be secured on it's own. This can be tricky because while you cannot secure a tractor solely by securing the front end loader, you do not have to tie down the loader arms as an attachment, unless you have no attachment hooked to the loader arms. If the loader is on, but no attachment is present, secure the loader where an attachment would have been. If your loader arms have a support tube running from side to side that is open, run a chain through that tube to the other side. Be prepared to take hooks off as they do not always fit sometimes. Simply put the hook back on once you fish it through.

    Never tie down a tractor by the 3PT either. It can and will bleed down, and your chain will be loose when this happens. As I already stated, you cannot legally tie down a machine by attachments or hydraulic parts that are in travel (meaning part way extended)

    The correct way to tie down a tractor, would be chaining the axles at each wheel, usually in a cross chain pattern, or an X if you will. Make sure the chains do not touch each other where they cross, this is a ticket-able offense.

    One thing I see a lot of is people who put a smaller excavator bucket, inside of the bigger one that is mounted to the machine or backhoe. They curl the buckets in thinking it is OK. This is NOT ACCEPTABLE. Hydraulic cylinders are not guaranteed to keep things in place. If you have any leak down whatsoever, the buckets will be loose. You CANNOT rely on your hydraulic system to hold itself in place, it is illegal to do so.

    Rub rails. Never hook a chain, or strap, to the outside rail on the side of your trailer deck. This long flat piece of metal is a rub rail, it is not meant for chains or straps. Stake pockets are the proper place for chain hooks, and straps should be run behind the rub rail, and hooked under the lip of the trailer. Not following this is an offense as well, and illegal. Why? Well, if you put your straps on the OUTSIDE of the rub rail, and a car side swipes you, chances are good they will be cut and your load is now loose. If your straps are behind the rub rail, it is much less likely for this to happen.

    Do not use cheap, thin chain. I never use anything less than 3/8, grade 70. Your tie downs have to meet state and federal laws. Having chain of the wrong thickness, or wrong grade, is again, a ticket-able offence.

    This is a subject that really makes me mad, because everyday I see people who throw stuff in their pickup bed, and just take off, without securing it. You can never assume something will stay put. Even an unsecured gas can is inexcusable in my book. A load is a load, whether it is 5 pounds or 200,000 pounds, it has to be secured.

    I've had loads that would make others cringe, give up and walk away. There is ALWAYS a way to properly secure a load. Whenever you are hauling something, anything, stand back and look at it. Now pretend you are the incredible Hulk, turn your trailer and load upside down in your mind. Would it stay on with your tie down job? My motto is even if I get in a wreck, or go down a mountain side, the load will still be attached to my trailer. I have spent hours securing loads, because it's the right thing to do. If your in a hurry, change your schedule, don't put 1 less chain on, because it might mean someones life, or your own.
    JD-so are you in fact saying It is okay to use the loader arms-through the cross tube?

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