Chains on R4 equipped 4x20 Cab

   / Chains on R4 equipped 4x20 Cab #1  

Red Horse

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
1,174
Location
Bolton, MA
Tractor
Deere 655ZTrak, Deere 4720 Cab, 400 X LT 155
Anyone running chains on a R4 4x20 cab? If so what are they. I use a 7' Fisher on my loader and with light stuff like we had last big storm (24+"), no problem- but when it gets heavy, tractor will go sideways for sure.
 
   / Chains on R4 equipped 4x20 Cab #2  
I've used chains for many years on my tractors. Including the 17.5x24 R4's (same as your 4720) rear wheels on my JD 110TLB.

AKfish
 

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   / Chains on R4 equipped 4x20 Cab #3  
Larry,
Didn't you add wheel spacers to your 110?
 
   / Chains on R4 equipped 4x20 Cab #4  
Larry,
Didn't you add wheel spacers to your 110?

Yup Steve. Sure did... I used wheel spacers for a 863 Bobcat. Local JD dealer sells both (Bobcat and JD) - they put me onto them. The biggest issue with chains on the 110 is the clearance between the tire and the inside face of the fender well. It's a PITA to attach the rubber tensioners (or installing/removing the chains) and if you're ever in mud at all - it balls up pretty tightly between the fender and the tire. Not a good thing...

That said, I used the chains for a year before I put the wheel spacers on. It works ok - but, as I mentioned - there is a better way!

Of course, the R4's are a 2-position rim and if they're mounted in the narrow configuration - switching them to the opposite side - increases your tire clearance; a bit.

AKfish
 
   / Chains on R4 equipped 4x20 Cab #5  
The chains that I currently use have links that are configured like an "H" but with 2 cross-links between the vertical legs of the H. I've used a standard ladder-type link chain in the past; but, the links tend to fall into the gaps between the tire lugs and do not provide as good a grip.

The chain links are 3/8" diameter steel.

AKfish
 
   / Chains on R4 equipped 4x20 Cab
  • Thread Starter
#6  
AKF I don't believe my rims can be reversed-perhaps 110's have another style??
 
   / Chains on R4 equipped 4x20 Cab #7  
AKF I don't believe my rims can be reversed-perhaps 110's have another style??

They get flipped around and swapped side for side. So the valve stems will be on the inside and the tread will still point the right way. If yours are like my MY2012 4720 rims though, it adds quite a bit of width... to the point that covering your tire track with a bucket or blower might be difficult. I haven't tried it, but just looking at the dish... It looks like you would be adding over 12 inches to the wheel track. The older 4x20's had adjustable rims on the R4's... Now just the R1's get the adjustables.
If it were me, I would probably add spacers like Mr. Fish.
 
   / Chains on R4 equipped 4x20 Cab #8  
I had the same issue in the deeper/heavier snow with my 4320 and R4 tread with beet juice and spacers. The dealer suggested adding beet juice to the front tires to help keep the fronts from sliding. Told him to do it while he had the tractor. I forget how much weight it added but it definitely helps. I have never used chains on any of the tires. Weights can also be added to the front.
 
   / Chains on R4 equipped 4x20 Cab #9  
They get flipped around and swapped side for side. So the valve stems will be on the inside and the tread will still point the right way. If yours are like my MY2012 4720 rims though, it adds quite a bit of width... to the point that covering your tire track with a bucket or blower might be difficult. I haven't tried it, but just looking at the dish... It looks like you would be adding over 12 inches to the wheel track. The older 4x20's had adjustable rims on the R4's... Now just the R1's get the adjustables.
If it were me, I would probably add spacers like Mr. Fish.

Much better explanation.. Thanks. One added consideration; chains are very destructive of garage floors and driveways and sidewalks - when you forget exactly where the edge is... And they're a real PITA to take on and off. So, when you put 'em on - they tend to stay on until it's REALLY Spring!

But... they're definitely cheaper than wheel weights and even cheaper than beet juice - Rimgard. (Although, if I had an opportunity to have my tires filled with RimGard - I'd do it.)

Chains make sense if you live someplace that really has WINTER. Or hilly country and you're in the woods with mixed ice and snow.

My chains go on in mid-October and don't come off until the end of April.

Something else that I've noticed after using chains for a number of years - your tires will last longer. The chains take the brunt of slipping and gouging on hard, frozen surfaces - not your tires. After 1,200 hours on my 110, I'm fairly confident my tires will be Ok for another 1,200 hours.

AKfish
 
 
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