4720 Hydraulic issues

[Red Horse]

Whenever I have a heavy load on my 400X loader, raising/lowering while trying to "slip" the bucket control is difficult whenever I am handling a heavy load. Anyone have any clue? Obvious question-am I experienced? Yes.

Also, can anyone tell me what this plug is? It is rear of the trans drain plug and to the right side of the machine looking rearward.

 

[arlen4720]

My open station works OK, I mean it's a little sensitive, but I got used to it, and can "feather" it smoothly. I think the cab models have a cable, as opposed to the linkage that the open stations have. The cable may be a little more prone to jumpiness. Maybe you could try lubing everything up.
The plug is for the transmission heater (I think).

 

[Danscaper]

Are you having hydraulic issues or loader joystick issues. If your talking about feathering issues with the joystick, it's because you have cables going from the joystick to the control valve. You can lubricate those if you want. You will have to drill a tiny hole at the top of the cables sheath. Then get some blunt tip syringes and inject motor oil into them

 

[Red Horse]

Thx guys- never gave the cable issue a thought. What about frequent shots of WD-40?? Manual I do believe says nothing about that. then again Manual says 9.6 gals of hydraulic for the full 500 hour service. With loader off machine, and new spin on plus dropping the two inline screens I put 9.6 in without ever checking stick-bottom line, I ended taking about 3 quarts out to get to correct fill mark on stick

 

[Danscaper]

Thx guys- never gave the cable issue a thought. What about frequent shots of WD-40?? Manual I do believe says nothing about that. then again Manual says 9.6 gals of hydraulic for the full 500 hour service. With loader off machine, and new spin on plus dropping the two inline screens I put 9.6 in without ever checking stick-bottom line, I ended taking about 3 quarts out to get to correct fill mark on stick

The problem with wd40 is that there is no way to get the fluid into the sheath. I have removed the access panel by the loader control and this cables are sealed to the point where you can get absolutely no wd40 into them. The cables are like 3 foot long a piece. You have to drill into the metal part of the cables. Just a very tiny hole big enough to fit a syringe into. I already drilled the holes myself but have not injected them yet. I just got a ten pa k of syringes off eBay. Motor oil is the best thing to use for longevity and its what they use for clutch cables for this issue. If it is something you want to try, shoot me a message and ill send you a couple syringes.

 

[Red Horse]

The problem with wd40 is that there is no way to get the fluid into the sheath. I have removed the access panel by the loader control and this cables are sealed to the point where you can get absolutely no wd40 into them. The cables are like 3 foot long a piece. You have to drill into the metal part of the cables. Just a very tiny hole big enough to fit a syringe into. I already drilled the holes myself but have not injected them yet. I just got a ten pa k of syringes off eBay. Motor oil is the best thing to use for longevity and its what they use for clutch cables for this issue. If it is something you want to try, shoot me a message and ill send you a couple syringes.

DS
Thx for the comment.. I actually have a needle dispenser for fine machine oil. Also I've never looked at the attachment points on these cables. If they are easily accessible (fat chance) what would you think of plugging a 3' piece of 3/4 pipe-pvc whatever and soaking them in 10w?
Bob

 

[Danscaper]

DS
Thx for the comment.. I actually have a needle dispenser for fine machine oil. Also I've never looked at the attachment points on these cables. If they are easily accessible (fat chance) what would you think of plugging a 3' piece of 3/4 pipe-pvc whatever and soaking them in 10w?
Bob

honestly, that sounds like a fine idea!. The job would be very very easy to do to remove the cables. Just remove the wheel on the right side for easier access. I may do this

 

[Red Horse]

honestly, that sounds like a fine idea!. The job would be very very easy to do to remove the cables. Just remove the wheel on the right side for easier access. I may do this

Thx DS I will keep you posted

 

[Red Horse]

Well I chickened out on disconnecting the cables. But what I did do was remove the boot and literally flooded the "cup" that the cables originate in. Did have a need today to move some granite steps about 7' long (old curb stones) and it did seem to function better. I will keep "dosing" it sand see if things improve.

 

[Danscaper]

I chickened out too. I have the holes drilled but did not inject. My fear is that I will always have to oil. I tried shooting the cups too but just seems sealed too much and couldn't get musch to come out. You want to see fluid coming out the other end. Let us know if it keeps loosening up as you do it