Ok. I'm looking for a sub or compact tractor that can do it all. I'm kind of locked into the John Deere for the side by side pedal configuration and brand recognition. I will be purchasing a MMM and FEL as well. I cut about 2.5 acres that is partially wooded and will be using the FEL for hauling/getting wood, moving mulch and other odd jobs. I would love to go with the bigger 2032r but I have several very steep slopes that I have to cut parallel to the hill and also numerous trees and yard obstacles that I need to manuver around as well. So my main issues is slope stability and manuverability. I have seen on some forums that others have claimed that the 2032r (or old 2720) is more stable than the 1026r which is hard to believe considering how low the 1026r sits. I anticipate loading the tires and adding wheel spacers if necessary. Does the added weight of a 2032r make that much of a difference on the hills?
Traction 1026r vs 2025r vs 2032r
- Thread starter btellish
- Start date
GGB
Gold Member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2010
- Messages
- 479
- Location
- Kansas
- Tractor
- John Deere 2032R, John Deere Z930M, John Deere 455, John Deere XUV825i w/Deluxe Cab & Roll Down Windows, Snow Blade
I'm also looking at the same tractors. I was thinking I'd go with the 2032, but I have a couple of pond slopes to mow and assumed the 1025 would be more stable. Also, it looked like the drive over 7 Iron deck was only available on the 1025, not on the 2025 or 2032. So I'll be watching this thread closely. Thanks.
adamlee1986
New member
I have a 2012 1026R with a 60"mmm, I do not have a loader on it nor do I have loaded tires. I mow on very steep banks, side to side and it holds really well. I was not sure about it when I first bought it, but after operating it for a while it became evident that its a very stable machine. Keep in mind that I do not have a loader. I do have a complaint about the 1026R though. I have the independent mower lift kit. I don't think that it matters whether or not you have that or the 3 point lift when it comes to this problem. I think john deere did a very poor job engineering the cutting height stop for the deck. I am going to have to consult my dealership about my problem. The deck stop is actually jumping teeth on the stop allowing my deck to drop down and start scalping the ground. So I have to stop and lift the deck and then readjust the stop and try again. This is a design problem in my opinion just keep that in mind as you make a potential purchase.
PsRumors
Gold Member
So far (15 hours) I love me 1025r. It seems to be a great machine and its stability is beyond what I am willing to attempt.
We have 5 acres and the 1025r seems to be the perfect size. Not to large but large enough to get the jobs done.
As for the problem Adam Lee reported, I have not had that problem and haven't read it before.
We have 5 acres and the 1025r seems to be the perfect size. Not to large but large enough to get the jobs done.
As for the problem Adam Lee reported, I have not had that problem and haven't read it before.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Most of these small tractors with loaded tires are harder to roll over than people think. I would buy according to your needs, that is pick the machine that is large enough for your uses. Then be careful on the slopes, work them when the ground is dry and wear your seatbelt.
XSKIER
Platinum Member
When it comes to mowing slopes the MMM is the only way to fly. When it comes to using a FEL the auto connect MMM is the only way to fly. The 1025R will be more stable on side slopes. The 2032R will have more ability as a tractor. Only you can decide which is more important. Good luck!
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,873
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
I miss the dual brakes I had on my 4010 (equiv. of maybe a 2019F now). It doesn't seem any more stable on slopes (and I've plenty) than the 4010. Used to tip the 4010 up off one rear wheel when using the loader. Haven't done this yet with the 1025R but haven't done serious loader work with it yet.
I liked my non folding ROPS on the 4010 better as it would go through a normal doorway. I keep the ROPS folded all the time on the 1025R simply because I know I'll forget to fold it sometimes and do damage to doorways or rip out an overhead door. Why or why did JD build them to be higher than normal doorways when erect?
I liked my non folding ROPS on the 4010 better as it would go through a normal doorway. I keep the ROPS folded all the time on the 1025R simply because I know I'll forget to fold it sometimes and do damage to doorways or rip out an overhead door. Why or why did JD build them to be higher than normal doorways when erect?
chevy
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2003
- Messages
- 910
- Location
- East Central, Indiana
- Tractor
- Kioti CK3510SE HST, John Deere X739
I own 1026R with a mm mower, without a loader & a 2720 with a loader & mm mower. I do not have loaded tires on either, but I do have rear wheel weights on the 2720.
If you have a lot of tight spaces & lots of things to mow around, I would recommend going with the 1026R.
The 2720 does a great job of mowing, but it takes a lot more space to make turns. Our property has lots of slopes. I cannot say I have felt uncomfortable with either tractor. The 2720 does make a very nice loader tractor.
Another huge difference between the 2 tractors is that on the 1026R I can use both A & B speed ranges on slopped & level ground. On the 2720 I can only use speed range A on slopes & depending on what I am doing, I may be able to use speed range B on level ground.
There is not a huge difference in size between the 2 tractors.
If you have a lot of tight spaces & lots of things to mow around, I would recommend going with the 1026R.
The 2720 does a great job of mowing, but it takes a lot more space to make turns. Our property has lots of slopes. I cannot say I have felt uncomfortable with either tractor. The 2720 does make a very nice loader tractor.
Another huge difference between the 2 tractors is that on the 1026R I can use both A & B speed ranges on slopped & level ground. On the 2720 I can only use speed range A on slopes & depending on what I am doing, I may be able to use speed range B on level ground.
There is not a huge difference in size between the 2 tractors.
Tractornewb
Member
Thanks for the pics, Chevy. I'm also trying to decide between the 1 series and the new 2 series. Seems like there isn't really much difference between the 1025R and the 2025R, just loader capacity, and slightly larger frame. They have the same 3TNV76 Yanmar engine also. Seems pretty weird that the 1025R has a total hydraulic flow of 6.3 gals, and the 2025R has a 5.6 gals total flow. Weird, when the 2025R has a greater loader capacity.
It now seems that there is no midpoint in the 2 series. Previously, there was the 2520, which was slotted between the 2320 and the 2720, with an 80 cu. in engine. There is nothing inbetween the 2025R and the 2032R now, both in terms of price point and performance.
Kinda weird.
It now seems that there is no midpoint in the 2 series. Previously, there was the 2520, which was slotted between the 2320 and the 2720, with an 80 cu. in engine. There is nothing inbetween the 2025R and the 2032R now, both in terms of price point and performance.
Kinda weird.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
I don't see what is weird about it, the regulations affected the small changes to some extent. Even with the 2520 removed from the line up these are very gradual changes in tractor sizes imo. I prefer the x7xx series for mowing lawns and keep it light, then the 4xxx series with weight added for small tractor work. For those who need something in between the 1, 2 and 3 series machines are available with several models, how small of an increment in size change is needed? Personally I prefer the higher hp tractors in the given sized frames.