Where to find rebuild parts for 4110

[ctp13]

Hi Reciently I got a JD 4110 from a friend I believe IT is in need of a rebuild wont start and its been sitting for several years now. I was there when He tried to start it when He got it But Im pretty sure the rings are gone - OR the head is warped There are signs it has had the head off in the past !000 hours. anyway I cant seem to be able to source parts or rebuild kits for the 3TNE74 engine . Hopefully it needs less But I have a two week break and would like to get into this . I can see where it could be simple things but.... prepairing for a rebuild will make things easer.

Thanks
Chuck

 

[glc24]

Hello Chuck,
You need to start using JD's parts website. It is an invaluable tool for everything involving your tractor. Or any JD tractor/product for that matter.
Once you have the part numbers,then it's all up to you where you purchase them.

John Deere - Parts Catalog


Greg

 

[Mechanos]

There are no aftermarket sources for Yanmar parts. You have two choices... JD or a Yanmar distributor.

 

[ctp13]

Hello Chuck,
You need to start using JD's parts website. It is an invaluable tool for everything involving your tractor. Or any JD tractor/product for that matter.
Once you have the part numbers,then it's all up to you where you purchase them.

John Deere - Parts Catalog


Greg

Thanks for the help guys and the link Greg

Chuck

 

[Mechanos]

Hold on to your shorts though... Yanmar parts are mucho expensive. I rebuilt my 3TNE88 a year ago and it was probably the most expensive engine I've ever rebuilt. Pistons were $200 each from Yanmar... JD lists them at $260 each. The head gasket was $100. I could go on and on, but suffice it to say the rebuild put a huge dent in my wallet.

 

[Leejohn]

Why are so sure you need to take engine apart?

 

[Mechanos]

A word to the wise... do not use starting fluid to try and get it running... even with the glow plugs or grid heater disabled. The cylinder pressures generated are just too high for the Yanmar to take without tearing something up. Usually it is the ring lands on the pistons.

 

[ctp13]

LeeJohn Im prety sure it needs to come apart IT wont start But while trying it has an equal amout of blow by and exhaust AND it turns out some Hack used Starting fluid and lots of it! .

I now have head off Head gasket shows no real leaks ( like I know) I havent miked the holes but but see no scratches in the walls significant carbon build up on valves but not much of a cylinder ? Ring? at top . as I know it the Injection pump and timing are not something that would slip and IT did run after the head job Then it went to a place where it was opperated by non mechanical opperators . and when it would not start the dweeb used most of a can of start fluid to get it going .

OF corse I may be wrong
But I think new rings ( if the holes are not tapered or the ring lands not hammered Then Ill have a good rig

Chuck

 

[ctp13]

OK New Problem I checked the TDC on Flywheel IT is at TDC But ON the cylinder in front ( manual says #1 is next to flywheel ) Could some hack have put the flywheel on 180 degrese off? further IF the guy who did put flywheel on thinking # 1 was at front then timed cam to that? OH my its getting a bit nuts .
and Putting the inspection hole under Tractor makes it tough to rotate . But Iv done it four times and it always comes up with the mark on the front cylinder at top.

Now I gotta say HELP!
Chuck

OOPS Now that I got a better light and got my old fat head in there it apears There are Marks at # 3 and # 1 so Never mind now to hunt down a inside mike. Reason I jumped at the idea was it always sounded when we were trying to start it tat it needed to have the distributer turned to advance the timing ( ofr corse no distribuitor so...)

OK back on my head
Thanks all
Chuck

 

[Mechanos]

If that much starting fluid was used, my money says the pistons are toast. These little Yanmar's are also somewhat notorius for ovaling out the bores, as well as tapering the cylinder walls. You will need to pull the pistons completely out of the bores in order to properly measure the ovality and taper. You also need to measure the pistons and the ring lands.

The 3TNE88 I rebuilt last year would still start and operate the tractor... it was just down on power and had a ton of blow-by. Turns out my bores were all both ovaled and tapered beyond acceptable limits. The top ring land was so hammered on all three pistons that you could easily fit a second ring in the groove without taking the first one out! My block was beyond the limits of oversized pistons, so I had to have the block bored, sleeved and then final bored back to std. size. Also had to buy three new pistons and wrist pins (and new wrist pin inserts). I also had a couple burnt exhaust valves, so I had the head reworked and a valve job done as well. Needless to say, it runs like a new engine now.... and it better, considering the amount of time, effort and cash I put into it.