Idle speed on 1025R

[Fixin4fun]

Here's my 2 cents: The emissions are typically tied to the WOT speed, not the low idle. That's why it (high idle setting) has a permanent tag to identify if someone tampers with it. Low idle is determined off of noise and performance as engine is tied to the hydraulic and hydrostat pumps and can be adjusted by the low idle screw and lock nut. The lower the engine speed, the lower hydraulic flow, so steering and hydraulic performance will be lower. As long as you are aware of the steering and hydraulic issues, I say adjust to your liking. Yanmar has been building those small diesels for quite some time and I would find it hard to believe they'd build one that would self destruct due to lack of oil.

 

[RalphVa]

Not clear to me how to adjust the idle speed; I've adjusted the throttle cable (easy) with no change in idle speed, as the wire is fully extended to where there's no lever action left. The arm that the wire from the throttle cable connects to has a big nut securing it, with a spring behind the nut. You likely cannot move the arm to another position on the shaft. Wondering if anyone has the maintenance CD on the 1025 that might show this. I'll bet it isn't even shown on the CD. I bought a maintenance CD for the 4010. Not sure I'll bother with one on this model, as I'd never used the CD on the 4010. Gave it to a friend who has a 4010.

Ralph

 

[Fixin4fun]

The screw that the bracket stops against (for low idle) on the pump can be adjusted. There is a locknut to loosen and the head of the screwis hidden behind the fuel hose,

 

[RalphVa]

Wow! Thanks a bunch. May be easy to do. I only found the "B" nuts and adjusted the cable. That took it down from about 1,600 to near 1,575. Hopefully, maybe I can get it even lower. The 1,575 is essentially 1/2 PTO speed.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

Wonder if anyone has a parts description on the idle speed bolt (through lock nut D in above photo).

I loosened it today and got the idle down to 1,100, but I could not get the lock nut to go up against the body to lock the bolt in place. Had to screw the little bolt back in a bit with idle speed now at 1,500 (instead of the 1,600 before). The lock nut just did not want to go there.

Anyone else tries this, here is what you do: slightly loosen the lock nut, loosen the idle bolt about 1/3 turn (wrench down on it), turn lock nut about same in opposite direction (wrench up on it), keep this up until the idle bolt comes out about 1/8". That's about how much is needed to get idle down to 1,100.

I unscrewed the lock nut quite a ways and somehow could not get it back against the injector body to lock the bolt in place. It felt almost as though there's a strip area in the threads.

Think one can completely remove the idle bolt to look at it and just screw it back in? May have to check it out. Seems weird.

Ralph