Your 4210 4310...LOADER USE NOT APPROVED BY DEERE

[del]

Am I missing something?

In the both the pre-delivery loader instruction manual, and
the loader manual itself, as currently provided by deere for
a 420 or 430 loader it states in the ballast section that
"Loader use is not approved" if you do not have your wheels
set so that the tread width (distance between CENTER of one
tire to center of other tire is over 59".

EVEN if you add wheel ballast, wheel weights and rear implement
or ballast box weight.

If I add 6 wheel weights (seems like it only takes 4) and
660 pounds on the back end, loader use is approved if tread
width is OVER 59 inches.

It has a list that shows that all tires are approved but how
in the @#%#@%#@ do you get the R4 tires out to 59"????

With them mounted as received the valve stems are on the out
side the book shows thats 42" with the wheels flipped it goes
to 44".

Even the chart for the 24 inch ag wheels you can disassemble
only go to 54" by doing everything possible.

Doesn't this say that loader use is just not approved no
matter what you do?

There is no mention of this on deere's website where you would
specify loader or tire selection.

I have had a loader for 20 years and wider is indeed better,
ballast is better and slopes are a definite watch your [censored],
but this says "LOADER USE NOT APPROVED".

Tell me I'm reading this wrong before I go insane.

With the 430 loader on the 4300 4310 you are supposed to
full ballast the wheels, add 6 wheel weights, AND 1200
pounds on the back. I wonder how that is done, a ballast
box full of concrete doesn't come near that. And that's
assuming you have tread with (that's center to center) at
59 inches or more.

del

 

[JDgreen227]

I tried to figure out what the specs were for using the 420 loader on my 4210 and the more I read the more confused I became. Since I never raise my loader bucket over hood height when full of material I figure even with no loaded tires or rear ballast weight I am reasonably safe. Deere likely puts these recommendations in the manual so in case somebody goofs up and then tries to sue for damages. their legal department can say: "Oh, darn, since you didn't follow our recommended guidelines you have no grounds for action".

 

[keeney]

I found the JD tire width chart to be very confusing as well. I think maybe they have interchangeably used the tire center-line to center-line distance with the tire outside-edge to outside-edge distance.

I totally disagree with the concept of not balasting the rear when using a loader!

Think about it, the 430 loader is rated for what 3000 lbs or so? Add the weight of the loader arms and bucket as well - maybe another 1000 lbs? What does the rear half of the un-ballasted tractor weigh? Now think of it as a teeter-totter pivoting on the front axle.

Just yesterday I was using my forks on my 4100 to load some scrap lumber from a demolished retaining wall into a trailer. I was in a hurry, so I didn't bother to put the ballast block on because none of the pieces looked all that heavy. Well, they were heavier than they looked. As I started to lift one of the larger chunks high enough to dump into the trailer and it started to slide down towards the end of the forks, the rear wheels came off the ground and I felt the whole thing starting to go sideways as well. I ended up setting the forks down on the edge of the trailer to recover.

After changing my shorts and putting the ballast block on, things were much safer.

You can fill your ballast box with some portion of scrap steel to make it heavier than what you would get with concrete or sand.

I made my ballast out of a lump of concrete not using the ballast box. 11 x 80lb bags is about 880 lbs plus the steel frame it is cast on gives me the 1000lb recommended ballast for my 410 loader on my 4100.

- Rick

 

[JDgreen227]

You are right about using rear ballast....it's the safest thing to do when using a loader. It's easy to make your own ballast box, I cut down an old Speeco 3 point rear blade for the mounting points and tack welded some angle iron on to reinforce the frame, then built a wood box around it and filled the box with wet concrete. Not fancy, but cheap.

 

[yellowsocks93]

I got a quick hitch from JD so I can hook up to the ballast box when need be and detach it quickly for other things. I like it except it is not compatable for most of my attachments which are from the early '90s.

 

[del]

I agree with the ballast but what is weird is
that it would appear that a loader is not
approved on any 4210 4310 or 4410 no matter
HOW you ballast the tractor because you can't
increase the tread width to 59". (And it shows
a drawing of what "tread width" is, from center
to center.

Any of us that have had a loader know with ballast
and flat ground, slow travel and low load height
the loaders are safe but I find it bizarre that
"NO LOADER USE IS APPROVED". With all JD's warnings
in their manual for every tiny thing, this warning
is relatively BURIED and you won't find it until
after you read the loader manual after purchase.
I've had a loader for 20 years and am not freaked
out about using the tractor, just that this is
casually mentioned in the manual like.

"Oh, you didn't want to USE that loader we sold you did you?

At least now I found a good place to put all those
old flywheels I couldn't part with...IN THE BALLAST BOX!

HA HA

Del

 

[tdjma]

Ballest box?i understand the concept but dont understand why a box blade isnt left on for weight in the back thats what ive always had to do with the masseys and fords?just wondering

 

[techwrtr2]

I use my box blade for ballast more than any actual grading work.

 

[kennyd]

Ballest box?i understand the concept but dont understand why a box blade isnt left on for weight in the back thats what ive always had to do with the masseys and fords?just wondering

7 year old thread...

 

[Gale Hawkins]

If JD had ever been sued or something then that would make more sense. :laughing: