3-Point Hitch Does Draft Control have any use for blade work (or is it mainly for plowing)?

[sixdogs]

As already mentioned, I use an 8 ft heavy landscape rake in draft control on either an L4300 or MX5100 to smooth land and fields and can do a truly perfect and flat job. People are amazed how flat it is and I do that by gradually raising the rake off the ground and by feathering the draft control. There is a learning curve to this and the ground has to be prepped first. It has to be worked, packed hard and then preferably rained on to settle it out. I would never or rarely put the full weight of the rake on the ground because it might bounce. My goal is merely to level. I would also rake the field multiple times and in different angled directions.

The purpose of working and packing the ground is to bury rocks and trash and leave the soil soft on the surface so a light touch scrapes the high spots easily.

I have only used a blade occasionally and not recently but can't see any reason why that would not work similar to the above. I would not put full weight of the implement on the ground, the ground would be harder rather than softer and I will have to alter directions to keep things smooth. It won't come out as smooth as a rake because material will spill to the sides but I think a respectable job could be done using draft control and experience. I don't see how ridges would develop with an experienced operator and correct soil conditions. Maybe in corners or areas difficult to turn.

Lighter tractors like I use (3500 lbs) do a better job than a heavier one (8000 lbs) is my experience. Other soil types may not work like mine so this is just my two cents on all this.

 

[jenkinsph]

As already mentioned, I use an 8 ft heavy landscape rake in draft control on either an L4300 or MX5100 to smooth land and fields and can do a truly perfect and flat job. People are amazed how flat it is and I do that by gradually raising the rake off the ground and by feathering the draft control. There is a learning curve to this and the ground has to be prepped first. It has to be worked, packed hard and then preferably rained on to settle it out. I would never or rarely put the full weight of the rake on the ground because it might bounce. My goal is merely to level. I would also rake the field multiple times and in different angled directions.

The purpose of working and packing the ground is to bury rocks and trash and leave the soil soft on the surface so a light touch scrapes the high spots easily.

I have only used a blade occasionally and not recently but can't see any reason why that would not work similar to the above. I would not put full weight of the implement on the ground, the ground would be harder rather than softer and I will have to alter directions to keep things smooth. It won't come out as smooth as a rake because material will spill to the sides but I think a respectable job could be done using draft control and experience. I don't see how ridges would develop with an experienced operator and correct soil conditions. Maybe in corners or areas difficult to turn.

Lighter tractors like I use (3500 lbs) do a better job than a heavier one (8000 lbs) is my experience. Other soil types may not work like mine so this is just my two cents on all this.

You mention "feathering the draft control", on the OP's tractor he can select L, L+D or D. L being load and D being depth or position with nothing to feather.
I do a lot of grading and smoothing and feather the 3ph height in real time on a constant basis, don't have L+D on my current tractors by the way. On the older Deeres' with the load and depth control light rake work as you describe isn't going to put enough load on the L+D to make it work anyway.

At any rate the load and depth control isn't going to take the place of seat time for grading a smooth surface. The OP will need to spend the time to work through this and consider rakes with wheels and or other tools such as the lpgs to aid In getting better results.

 

[jenkinsph]

As already mentioned, I use an 8 ft heavy landscape rake in draft control on either an L4300 or MX5100 to smooth land and fields and can do a truly perfect and flat job. People are amazed how flat it is and I do that by gradually raising the rake off the ground and by feathering the draft control. There is a learning curve to this and the ground has to be prepped first. It has to be worked, packed hard and then preferably rained on to settle it out. I would never or rarely put the full weight of the rake on the ground because it might bounce. My goal is merely to level. I would also rake the field multiple times and in different angled directions.

The purpose of working and packing the ground is to bury rocks and trash and leave the soil soft on the surface so a light touch scrapes the high spots easily.

I have only used a blade occasionally and not recently but can't see any reason why that would not work similar to the above. I would not put full weight of the implement on the ground, the ground would be harder rather than softer and I will have to alter directions to keep things smooth. It won't come out as smooth as a rake because material will spill to the sides but I think a respectable job could be done using draft control and experience. I don't see how ridges would develop with an experienced operator and correct soil conditions. Maybe in corners or areas difficult to turn.

Lighter tractors like I use (3500 lbs) do a better job than a heavier one (8000 lbs) is my experience. Other soil types may not work like mine so this is just my two cents on all this.

You mention "feathering the draft control", on the OP's tractor he can select L, L+D or D. L being load and D being depth or position with nothing to feather.
I do a lot of grading and smoothing and feather the 3ph height in real time on a constant basis, don't have L+D on my current tractors by the way. On the older Deeres' with the load and depth control light rake work as you describe isn't going to put enough load on the L+D to make it work anyway.

At any rate the load and depth control isn't going to take the place of seat time for grading a smooth surface. The OP will need to spend the time to work through this and consider rakes with wheels and or other tools such as the lpgs to aid In getting better results.

 

[BX23D]

I'd consider adding a set of gauge wheels to the rear of the scraper blade if you want no hassle smooth grading. Otherwise I think you will need to learn to ride the lift lever and feather it as you go over hills and valleys. Not easy, but can be done with practice.

I agree, but I would float the hydraulic top link, if available, as well. Or, disconnect the top link for fine grading. You don't need the top link for pulling.
As was said, on hills and valleys you make lift lever adjustments. Works well with landscape rakes as well. If you don't see this picture, your eyes or mind aren't open.
Been there, done that, job done.

 

[bcp]

Draft controls works for grading.

No it doesn't.

It works for me.

Not for me. Draft control is no good!

Yes, it is!!

How about saying that for some combinations of equipment, adjustment, operator, and ground it will work, and for some combinations it won't?

Bruce

 

[beenthere]

That about covers the gamut. Hope it helps the OP with his question.