JD 2320 Won't Start

[smartc]

Looking for some pointers if anyone can help... I've got a 2320 tractor that won't start. It had overheated earlier in the day when the grille plugged up and I shut it down to let it cool off. Everything was fine the next time I started it, but after I shut it off a few minutes later it refused to start again. Initially the glow plug light came on and all looked good, but when I turned the key I heard a loud click and then nothing. After that I lost all electrical power to boot.

Here's what I've checked / tried so far:

1. Replaced battery - might as well state that first!
2. Checked all fuses (5 that I could find) - all appear to be fine
3. Checked coolant level - topped up
4. Checked fuel cutoff switch - it's open

I'd hoped the new battery was the key, but no change. If I completely disconnect the electrical, I can get electrical power back and the glow plug will come back on. (Sometimes, but not always.) Beyond that, everything stops with that loud click when I turn the key to "Start". My guess is a bad relay but I can't even figure out how to get at them... Looks like I need to take the lower cowling off the instrument panel but I stopped when I couldn't get the upper cowling off for fear of damaging something.

Only other thing to add is that the tractor is parked on a slight incline, whereas it was on flat ground when I last got it started. Not sure if there might be a fluid level switch somewhere I've confused??

Any ideas? The JD dealership up the highway opens tomorrow so I'll give them a call but am still hoping this might be something I can resolve today.

Cheers and thanks!
Corey

 

[zzvyb6]

Loud click is fuel flow enable. (That's normal). I'd first check parking brake, seat and pto safety settings. If they are OK, give the starter a wallop with a hammer to see if the heat dried out any lubricant and the solenoid is stuck. Did the overhet light comes on and that's the reason you shut it down or did it quit outright ?

You can always try to jump the starter directly and see if it rolls over. If key is on it still may not light up. Let us know what you find.

 

[smartc]

No I shut it down before it conked out, but I'm not sure how long the light was on before I noticed. Definitely long enough to get the overflow tank boiling but not long enough to boil it dry.

Should have mentioned, I have checked the brake, PTO and seat already. Gave the starter a whack, but no difference there. Still no electrical power anywhere... not even the lights will come on. Must be a relay somewhere that's cutting power on me, but I'll be darned if I can figure out where it is. Going to go dig out my multimeter and see if I can measure power coming to the fuse boxes.

Thanks for the tips... I'll keep poking around under the hood and let you know what I find, tho likely to be the dealer who gets there first now.

Corey

 

[wmonroe]

Are the terminals clean and tight on the new battery?

 

[smartc]

Yep... Double checked that again tonight. Also checked at the main supply (40A) fuse and am getting full battery voltage there with the power switch on.

Couldn't quite get to the relays under the cowling, but I did get at the starter switch... Seems odd, but maybe someone can tell me if this is normal. There are 5 leads coming off the starter, 2 on top and 3 below. Wish now that I'd snapped a picture but let's call them A-E as per below (sorry for the crude schematic):

A B
C D E

With the key in "Off", I get ~ 12.4 volts between 'D' and any of the other leads, and the same between 'D' and the frame. So I'm guessing that's my hot wire from the battery.

With the key in "On" (not "Start") I get no voltage between 'D' and any other lead, and no voltage between 'D' and the frame. Neither do I get a voltage reading from any of the other leads (either between leads or between them and the frame). I checked at the battery and voltage there is the same as when I measured with the key in the "Off" position. I'm not sure what is upstream of the starter switch, but whatever is happening seems to be killing power to the starter switch. (Or maybe I just don't have a clue about how that switch is supposed to work - which is also possible!) Then again, I know I have voltage at the fuse box with the key on, so I'm not sure what to make of things.

I don't have a service manual... Does anyone know where I might dig out an electrical schematic?

Corey

 

[zzvyb6]

Here's what your manual says (in case you don't have one. I found it in-line)

Loose or corroded battery connections.

Blown fuse.

Low battery output - check electrolyte level.

Neutral start switch faulty or not adjusted properly - See your John Deere Dealer.

Key switch or starter faulty - See your John Deere Dealer.

Range transmission lever not in neutral position.

PTO engaged.

 

[Fawken]

Kinda sounds like your starter windings or solenoid windings got too hot and shorted out.

 

[smartc]

zzvyb6: Thanks... I did find that earlier. Seems I'm down to the switch key or starter.

Fawkin: I guess the good news is they can be replaced. I think this will be one for the service department so hopefully they can get it in this week.

I'll update once I have a diagnosis for benefit of anyone else who's interested.

Cheers!

 

[smartc]

Quick status update for anyone who's interested...

I got a reply from the dealership early this morning. The service tech (Mike) was great! :thumbsup: He talked me thru a few possibilities and sent me thru a diagnostic procedure with (most helpfully) an electrical schematic of the starter circuit. (I won't repost here out of respect for the copyright mark on the bottom, but PM me if you're in need.)

All of that is pointing at the key switch as the problem. I didn't have a chance to get my hands on the tractor until after the dealer had closed, so expecting to hear from Mike again tomorrow morning about parts. Should be a fairly straightforward fix if I can figure out how to release the existing key switch from the cowling!

Updates to follow once I've got my hands on the part.

Cheers!

 

[wmonroe]

That's good news. Hopefully it is a simple part swap.