Loader Converting 300cx loader to solid mount?

[600xc4me]

Has anyone done this? I would love if my 300cx was a solid mount loader. I hate how loose it feels and how much flex it has. I ran a 3032 e with a 300x solid mount loader, and it's a joke compared to the cx loader, but I sure love how solid it is. Has anyone built brackets or done anything of this sort?

 

[dieselcrawler]

I have a 300 loader on my 3005, agree about the flex and loose mounting system. I have done nothing to remedy the situation... yet. Interested in what replys are posted.

 

[texasranger556]

I have a 430 on my 4400 and while it creaks and groans a little bit I would never consider giving up the quick attach. Are the newer loaders significantly lighter weight/flexible?

 

[dieselcrawler]

Having only taken my loader off once in the 4 years I've had it, and that was only to see if I could tighten up the mounting system, I don't care if it has quick mount. Solid is better, as much as I over work (some would call abuse) my loader.

 

[600xc4me]

That's where I'm at too, I have had it off once, to get better access to install the block heater. But I just simply have no reason to ever take it off. And yes I come under the catogory of using to the point of abusing it too, I'm careful, but it works hard, and it's just not solid enough in my opinion. I was looking at just welding it all together bit the main beam looks to be cast or something. Cant see a good way of making it solid there. In the front I'm sure a guy could weld some brackets onto the lower loader cross member and bolt it to the tractor frame that it sits on?

 

[beenthere]

My 430 FEL on the 4300 works great.. not too loose. Comes off at least once a year for mounting the snow plow blade. Love the quick tach system.
Wouldn't want it difficult to remove if ever the time comes to have to work on the engine or thereabouts.

Not sure how I'd go about turning it into a solid mount, but a good fabricator/welder likely can do that without too much problem. After all, seems just weld it in place.

 

[pmsmechanic]

On my 955 with a 420 loader I added shims to the square bars that the rear of the loader rotates onto. It worked but I wasn't totally satisfied. My 4410 is also loose but I haven't done anything about it. I've wonder though about the mounting holes for the rear bars where they attach to the tractor. Those holes are slotted and I've wondered if that wasn't a way to tighten up the mount. To me it looks like you could loosen up the four bolts and then rotate the mount to take up the slack. I haven't tried it yet though.

I would never weld my loader to the mounts. It's just too handy to be able to remove the loader when necessary.

 

[Deere Dude]

Has anyone done this? I would love if my 300cx was a solid mount loader. I hate how loose it feels and how much flex it has. I ran a 3032 e with a 300x solid mount loader, and it's a joke compared to the cx loader, but I sure love how solid it is. Has anyone built brackets or done anything of this sort?

How long have you had this CX FEL? Are you sure it is set up right and tight. The big nut on the arm can be adjusted pretty tight to keep a lot of the play out of it. The loader seems to have a big spring on the bottom of the arm to make it flexible. If I was to the point of abusing the thing I would just adjust it as good as possible and call it a day. Maybe something won't break because of the forgiveness that is built in.

I have a CX and haul maximum capacity logs and rocks and fill and never had a problem with the looseness that tightening those two arm bolt won't take care of.

 

[dieselcrawler]

With my 300 (not 300x or 300cx, but I 'think' the mast to bracket connection is the same) I think the issue is wear on the 'pocket', be it the loader side or mount side. I keep the adjustment bolts and jam nuts/bolts tight. To get them tight, I lift the front wheels off the ground with the loader, then tighten the adjustment bolts out TIGHT, and the jam nut, and set screw bolt. That takes as much slack out as possible. However, having done that about once a year, I've notice the loader doesnt lower to the ground as far as it did when new. Which stands to reason if you study the geometry of the loader frame, mast, and how wear of the pocket and tightening the adjustment bolts to compensate, changes the final available down travel of the loader. A bolted solid connection and bolted brace from mast to loader frame/hoop that attaches to the front mount, may also be in order. Ive lost 2" of down travel, getting it back would be nice. Ive also thought of shims inside the pocket to compensate for wear, would allow loader more down travel.

 

[Jamming]

Could weld some material back on to compensate for slack. Maybe face it with multiple passes then smooth. I only have 155 hours on my 3033R loader has no such slope.