Linkage shaft for shifting into 4wd broke on John Deere 110 TLB

[Jtag]

Hi Everyone,

I have a John Deere 110 TLB that is stuck in 4wd. The knob for moving in and out of 4wd is super loose and feels like its not connected to anything. Underneath the tractor I found that the shaft that goes into the transfer case and attached to the linkage is broken. After looking at the parts diagram I initially thought I could just pull out the shaft and put in the new one. After looking at the diagram some more I saw that the end of the shaft that is inside of the transfer case is attached to the shift actuator with a roll pin and just can't be easily pulled out. Does anyone know if it is possible to get to that roll pin by removing the PTO off of the top of the transfer case or does the tractor have to be split to access the pin?

Attached is the parts diagram, the broken shaft is #5 and the part connected to it with the roll pin is #2.

Thanks for the help!!!

 

[beenthere]

:welcome: to TBN

That does look pretty intimidating and hopefully someone here will know the answer.

Do you have the service tech manual for your tractor? if not, will the Deere dealer help you zero in on what they would recommend?

 

[Zebrafive]

I am guessing you mean the rockshaft, not PTO, off the transaxle case.


Still guessing, but I think you will find the counter shaft and gears that are above it would be in the way.


I think you need to o a split.

 

[Ken]

Hi Jtag The picture of transmission looks very close to my 4520 Reverser.
The lever to engage or disconnect became loose. and locked into 4Whl. position so your description about the same also.

the flywheel housing to transmission needs to be separated. on mine the part #3 had not been installed properly and wear allowed it to jump out of the guide to slide the shaft into engage and stay.

The little part #3 must of been made of gold about 3/4th x3/8th thick with a hole drilled in middle and the shaft is inset into the hole. the cost is 2 men 8 hours each to separate and put in a new called(shifter shaft selector) and costs 54 bucks.

Used to own a Gravely garden tractor. and the part is very close to this. 2 bucks.

If you are familiar with John Deere tractor repair and have help not impossible to do your self.

ken

 

[larry08]

I have the same issue on a 4710 I recently purchased. It looks as though the previous owner caught it on something and sheared the end of the shaft off. I suppose I'd rather be stuck in 4wd than have the opposite problem, just hoping it doesn't hurt the front end too much going over pavement. If you do end up fixing it or paying someone to, would you please update us as to how hard it was or set you back?

 

[PILOON]

Just a suggestion,
Generally on 4WD the fronts lead the rear by a tad and that would result in more rapid wear of the front tires on hard surfaces.
Other than that I don't think more harm would result. (mechanical damage)

So that being said, the trade off is the cost of tire replacement vs the repair cost, and on small fronts I bet you find it will be many years away and $$'s ahead.

If you don't drive on asphalt and concrete it might not happen all that fast.

 

[Jtag]

Thank you everyone for your input and information I really appreciate it!!!

I went to the local John Deere dealer today to order a manual and talk to their service department. The Service Tech. told me the tractor has to be split and he estimated between 20-25 hours to do the job.

I am thinking about trying to do thee work myself. Are there any special tools or equipment that I would need to complete the job?

 

[Ken]

Thank you everyone for your input and information I really appreciate it!!!

I went to the local John Deere dealer today to order a manual and talk to their service department. The Service Tech. told me the tractor has to be split and he estimated between 20-25 hours to do the job.

I am thinking about trying to do thee work myself. Are there any special tools or equipment that I would need to complete the job?

The first real tool needed are the frame Jacks . On my repair Manuel there is description. and pictures. makes much easier to control the engine from rolling sideways.

Then read the description of parts removal (first remove the seat) fenders and careful removal of the floor platform
Guess need to ask is does this have a cab or open station?
Then just follow the book have a clean area to put removed parts. in order of removal with container to keep bolts to together. A for a 56 buck selector shifter shoe technology of mid '40s or earlier. as said before almost identical to a Gravely garden tractor. which part cost 2 bucks.

 

[Jtag]

Thank everyone for the input and advice, I really appreciate it.

I received the manual a few days ago and have been reading through the section on how to split the rear section of the tractor and I'm going to go for it once I mow the field for the last time this year. In the meantime I am going to fabricate stands for securely holding the tractor halves when they are split. There are a few good designs out there I found that look fairly easy to fabricate.

I'll report back with pictures once the process gets underway.

 

[Jtag]

I finally got around to splitting the tractor. I split it, installed the new shaft and put it back together. Everything seems to be working fine except that the rockshaft is not moving up. It is all of the way down and I can easily lift it up. The loader moves up and down as it should and the power steering is working fine. Did I mess something up internally when I had the tractor apart? I know there is a switch that is depressed on the rear of the tractor when the backhoe is installed to keep the rockshaft from moving and it is fully extended (not depressed).

Any ideas on what to check? Do I need to bleed the hydraulic system?

Thanks in advance!!!