Grading JD Boom Mounted Blade - New Thread

[454shooter]

To jcmseven and others with the boom mounted blade:
I am buying a returned 6' boom mounted power angle blade for my 3720 (I had ordered the Curtis adapter and was going to adapt my Meyers 7' blade to it) (I cancelled the Curtis adapter and the difference is $950.00 which I think is fair as the blade is as new except for a very minor bend on one of the skid shoe angles)
Question is: Looks like you can manually adjust the up and down tilt of the blade and I do not have the 3rd function lines. I was thinking I could secure the loader tilt and use its ports for angling the blade side to side or is the loader tilt something that you use often while plowing? I have the 3rd SCV that I believe JD attaches the 3rd function lines to so I could run soft lines back to them and still have the loader tilt. I plan on using my Land Pride 8' rear blade in conjunction with the front blade (with the cutting edge of the rear blade facing the tractor and offset, dragging the snow) and thought it would be nice to put a cylinder on it for power angle on the rear. I also have power beyond but it would need some type of separate control to control a cylinder.
Opinions on the best setup very much appreciated.
Thanks....Shooter

 

[kennyd]

Sounds like you are getting a good deal. And the JD setup is real nice.
The problem you will have trying to use the curl circiut is twofold...
1. Unless you are one of the extremely lucky ones, your cylinders leakdown a little, and that will change the angle of attack on your blade, not being able to correct this on the fly will be a real big PITA.
2. Getting the quick couplers disconnected when you get the blade set right, there will most likely be pressure on them, and you will have to move the joystick to release the pressure, thus changing the angle of attack on the blade.

Clear as mud?

 

[454shooter]

kennyd,

Thank you for the response. And it is clear as mud to my little brain. I figured that I would have to either chain or somehow clamp the curl feature so it would not move. If I would do that then I should not have the issues you mention, right?? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I still wonder if you are pushing snow up over an embankment if the tilt feature is used much. I think John will be able to answer that one. If the consensus is that I should just use the 3rd scv for controling the power angle I will do that and get off the tractor to manually angle the rear blade. (Thats if the 3720 can handle 2 blades at once, which I see no reason why it won't)

Thanks ...Shooter

 

[kennyd]

When I used mine last year, I did use the tilt function to push over the banks. Have you considered a electric diverter valve to control the plow? That is how I did mine. One could be added for about $300.00 (your labor). I personally would not want to be "chaining" or "clamping" the FEL cylinders to use my plow.


</font><font color="blue" class="small">( (Thats if the 3720 can handle 2 blades at once, which I see no reason why it won't)

Thanks ...Shooter )</font>

The only reason why it won't is weight. Rear blades are not that heavy, and you will need ALOT of rear ballast to offset that blade setup on the FEL.
I see no reason to run two blades anyway, when the front blade is so effieciant. I think the width of the rear blade will just hinder manuverability. I would much rather just have my ballest box, it's small and compact.

Good luck, and please let me know If i may help more...

 

[454shooter]

I thought my rear blade offset and used in conjunction with the front blade would be able to cut a very large swat (My drive is 3/10th of a mile). My rear blade is the Land Pride RB3596 (heavy duty 8 foot) which tips the scale at I believe over 500lb. and I added 2 lead discs weighing nearly 100 lb. each to it. It worked extremely well with my old AC tractor. I guess I will plan on taping into the rear remote which will only cost me the price of 2 hoses and disconnects.

Thanks Shooter

 

[jcmseven]

Shooter,

I honestly do not think the up/down tilt adds much, if anything. I actually generally set my up and down tilt point where I like it and do not move it much after that. One would be better served by using any additional hydraulic accesses for the side to side angling. The only time I found it helpul was clearing some snow from my lower gravel drive. Tilting the blade up allowed the skid shoes to prevent the blade from gouging the gravel. This would be a rare occurence, and even that I could have done without that feature. Hopefully this helps. With regard to the rear blade, I would concur with previous opinion. That is, with a front and rear blade hooked up, you will have quite a rig. The length may make it cumbersome. I usually just do my ballast box in the back for greater manuverability. The front blade will speed things up so much I think you would find the rear blade redundant. I have mounted my box blade in back on occasion. Reason? Where I live it is VERY hilly. Our road alone is 15-20+ percent in some places. The box blade serves as a good anchor if sliding occurs. This has not happened with my new tractor, but did happen with my 4310 a couple of times.

John M

 

[Bird]

Decimated

 

[trktrman]

Restored