My second post on the forum and my first thread. I have a new JD 3120 with 43 hours on it and my only gripe, if you want to call it that, is the 3-point hitch. It seems to me my Woods RB6 rear blade will not raise high enough off the ground, that is just how I see it. Not a real problem, just something I noticed. But one thing that does erk me is the speed at which the hitch raises. I know how to adjust the drop speed, but is there anyway to adjust the raise speed? Or is it possible that I haved a problem with the tractor? Anyone else have these gripes? <font color="green"> </font>
3-Point Hitch JD 3120 3-point hitch speed
- Thread starter smit360
- Start date
JerryG
Super Member
<font color="blue"> It seems to me my Woods RB6 rear blade will not raise high enough off the ground </font>
The more that the third arm is shortened, the higher the blade will raise.
The more that the third arm is shortened, the higher the blade will raise.
browns40
Gold Member
Hey smit 360,
As mentioned, the top link will gain clearance...
Also you can remove implement & stabilizer bars, grease lower link threads & move those all the way up for some more clearance...
Which top link hole are you using? Heavy duty (highest one) will also shorten the toplink that much more...
I have over a foot of clearance on BB, even with scarifiers all the way down, so I think it's probably your set-up...
As far as rate of pick-up, mine does fast enough to bounce the bushhog when it hits the top... too fast and 3pt creates a lot of dynamic force ("bouncing") on longer, heavier implements, so that may be a safety concern/longevityconcern manufacturers address by means of restricting speed...
Last idea, make sure hydraulic oil is at least up to 2nd of 3 hash marks on the dipstick... check cold.
Happy tractoring! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
As mentioned, the top link will gain clearance...
Also you can remove implement & stabilizer bars, grease lower link threads & move those all the way up for some more clearance...
Which top link hole are you using? Heavy duty (highest one) will also shorten the toplink that much more...
I have over a foot of clearance on BB, even with scarifiers all the way down, so I think it's probably your set-up...
As far as rate of pick-up, mine does fast enough to bounce the bushhog when it hits the top... too fast and 3pt creates a lot of dynamic force ("bouncing") on longer, heavier implements, so that may be a safety concern/longevityconcern manufacturers address by means of restricting speed...
Last idea, make sure hydraulic oil is at least up to 2nd of 3 hash marks on the dipstick... check cold.
Happy tractoring! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Nathan, really appreciate the input. I will move and shorten the top link and shorten the lower links. The hydralic fluid is another story. The other day i checked after the tractor had been running for a minute, was low so i added some hy-gard hat I happened to have. Well after i let it sit when i was done working i checked it again and it was way over full, so i drained some out unitil the hydralic fluid was at the maximum mark on the dip stick. Its ok for the system to have the fluid at maximum right? Also when I did add some fluid it was hy-gard, not low viscosity hy-gard as recomended. Is this ok, I probably dumped a gallon of regular hy-gard in? The temp range of the hy-gard is fine for me just curious if it isbad to mix the regular and low viscosity? Also I checked my front axle fluid for the first time, it was low, like not on the dipper. My tractor has only 43 hours and no leaks, where could the fluid have gone? Could it have been low from the dealer? Or is the tractor eating the flid during break in? I filled it up and so far so good for about 8 hours of operation. Sorry for the long post, just new to the tractor world and have lots of questions. Thanks
Jay <font color="green"> </font>
Jay <font color="green"> </font>
browns40
Gold Member
Hi smit360,
I always check fluids cold, brfore start-up... always have trickled down to then bottom, so always get consistent measure... after start-up fuids are all over the place.
I'm sure hydraulic fluid will be fine m,ixed, and at high end of hash-marks cold... changed mine at 50 hrs to be on safe side... got lazy & did not mess with filters, but JD doesn't call for until 400 hrs... you would be surprised how dirty fluids will look at 50 hr service...
Front axle is closed system, so would imagine dealer/factory had fluid at low end... would be surprised if you see it change now... reoplaced that at 50 hrs too, just as insurance... not so dirty as transmission...
You will have fun at next service, and can start all fluids at "par" for you... I am new at tractors, but they are machines, like cars & trucks, only simpler (thank goodness!), and is a great feeling to have fresh clean fluids in...
I do not worry much about exact recommended oil... i get economical brand that meets JD specs for use & am satisfied... will always monitor & change before required anyway...
Happy tractoring! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I always check fluids cold, brfore start-up... always have trickled down to then bottom, so always get consistent measure... after start-up fuids are all over the place.
I'm sure hydraulic fluid will be fine m,ixed, and at high end of hash-marks cold... changed mine at 50 hrs to be on safe side... got lazy & did not mess with filters, but JD doesn't call for until 400 hrs... you would be surprised how dirty fluids will look at 50 hr service...
Front axle is closed system, so would imagine dealer/factory had fluid at low end... would be surprised if you see it change now... reoplaced that at 50 hrs too, just as insurance... not so dirty as transmission...
You will have fun at next service, and can start all fluids at "par" for you... I am new at tractors, but they are machines, like cars & trucks, only simpler (thank goodness!), and is a great feeling to have fresh clean fluids in...
I do not worry much about exact recommended oil... i get economical brand that meets JD specs for use & am satisfied... will always monitor & change before required anyway...
Happy tractoring! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
JerryG
Super Member
Jay,
This winter when it real cold is when you will be able to tell the difference in the hydraulic fluid. If you use the thicker fluid you will have things squealing and some people that that have had the heavy fluid have actually had their filter bust. I don't know what transmission you have, but if you have anything other than a straight gear drive, you will be better off to use a quality fluid that is designed for the type of transmission and hydraulic clutches that is in it. It is a lot less expensive to use a quality fluid that has the right additives than it is to have to replace hydraulic clutches or rebuild a hydro. As the commercial use to say, pay now or pay later. Paying later is more expensive in this case.
This winter when it real cold is when you will be able to tell the difference in the hydraulic fluid. If you use the thicker fluid you will have things squealing and some people that that have had the heavy fluid have actually had their filter bust. I don't know what transmission you have, but if you have anything other than a straight gear drive, you will be better off to use a quality fluid that is designed for the type of transmission and hydraulic clutches that is in it. It is a lot less expensive to use a quality fluid that has the right additives than it is to have to replace hydraulic clutches or rebuild a hydro. As the commercial use to say, pay now or pay later. Paying later is more expensive in this case.