Need help removing my loader

[Farwell]

Maybe I should post this in the JD forum but will start here because this is where I spend most of my time.
I have a JD 2010 that I am going to put a different engine into. In order to have access to the engine I have to remove my JD 36A loader. The loader frame work is large and very heavy but I am sure that there is some secret that I do not know about on how to remove the loader and put it back on when the engine change is done. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Farwell

 

[1savoy]

Farwell,

If you have a chain hoist on a gantry or similar attachment would work well. As you probably know, the loader is going to have to come off the front. I would take the weight off the loader, near the center of the loader arms, with the chain hoist, then remove the attaching hardware on the rear axle. Then remove the front attaching hardware. You may have to use jack stands to set the loader down if you need to reposition the chain hoist attachment point to get a nice balancing point. Now you should be able to tilt the loader down slightly in the rear, for clearance of the loader frame from the rear axle, and push or drive the tractor out from underneath the loader. You will have to raise the loader/ chain hoist up once you clear the rear axle to allow the frame to clear the front axle and tires. A second set of hands and eyes to help guide it out would be nice. If you want to deal with the loader in separate pieces, you can pull the top two pins in the rear of the loader arms and the two rear cylinder pins. Tie the cylinders up to the loader arms and remove the bucket and loader arms. Then attach onto the rest of the loader frame and use the above procedure to remove it. I hope this makes sense. Take your time and work safe.

Good luck,
Russ

 

[Farwell]

Russ,
Thank you very much. You have given me a starting point. I have been at a loss as to where to begin the process. I have studied the loader and can see that it can be a little, if not a lot of danger if not done correctly. Also the hydraulic lines have to be joined so the oil continues to flow if the engine is started after the loader is removed, this much I figured out. I am at the planing stage now because I will be needing the JD until the snow is gone for the season.
Thanks again.
Farwell

 

[1savoy]

Farwell,

How are the hydraulics set up on your tractor for the loader. Is there an external pump off the front of the engine or are the tractor hydraulics plumbed to the loader? I do not remember if the 2010's are open or closed center hydraulics. I can find out if you do not know. But if it is closed center and fed from the tractor, you would just want to disconnect the lines and cap them. Open center from the tractor, you may have to loop them or possibly just cap them depending how the hydraulic system is set up on the 2010. If it is an external pump, it may be easier to let the pump come off with the loader.

Russ

 

[Farwell]

Russ,
My 2010 has the plumbed to the loader type hydraulics and has the open center type system so the loop is the way I will have to go if I start my engine. If I do not start the engine I can cap the hoses while I work on the engine.
To add a little to my JD story, a friend of mine was scraping out an old self propelled JD combine that had a motor on it that looked a lot like mine so I did some research and cross referenced the numbers and found out that the combine motor was a 115g, the same motor that was used in the 1010. I checked out the casting numbers on the block and the numbers were the same as my 2010 block. According the my friend the combine motor has about 500 hours on it and it ran very good. My 2010 motor is due for a rebuild due to the almost 5000 hours on it. If I pay for a motor overhaul, I have been told that it will cost in the neighborhood of $1500 so to me the obvious choice was to swap out the motors. There are some differences in the two motors as far as the bolt on parts but other than that it should work. From the research I have done the horse power is about the same so hopefully I will end up with a smooth running motor that will give me a few more years work out of my 2010.
Farwell

 

[1savoy]

Farwell,

Sounds like a fun project. Keep us posted how it works out. It is great when parts can be mixed and matched from one product to another.

Good luck,
Russ