HELP..rear wheel breaks off!

[ejb]

Darn!, just when we get a few days dry enough to cut my fields...my JD5410, less than 75 hours on it, I am driving along (luckily at a slow speed on level ground) and the left rear wheel breaks off and falls to the ground...upon closer examination, it looks like the bolts loosened up and fell out and the rest of them broke off...pretty scary experience!.

The question is, now what do I do? I checked all three other tires, and not a single bolt on any of the other three wheels is loose, which leads me to beleive that this tire was not put on the tractor right; I figure if bolts are prone to losen than they should loosen up on all the tires not just one of them, right?

The problem is several fold:

1. the "disk" that bolts to the rim (and thru which the bolts pass) is completey stripped, the holes which I assume were once round are now three times the normal size and oval...definitely need to replace this.

2. One bolt did not fall out, but broke off, so half of it is still in the axel, any ideas on how to get that out? If I knew how to weld I would guess trying to get something welded on there so that it can be unscrewed would do it? what about drilling into it and try to get it out that way?

4 or 5 of the holes look "OK", and may accept a new bolt, 1-2 of the holes look fair, any may accept a new bolt with some encouragment and 1-2 of the holes look marginal, and may be stripped beyond repair, but I can't tell for sure. Anyone think you can re-thread the bad ones? or does the whole axel need to be replaced? Anyone think, I could get away with using 6 or 7 out of 8 bolts long-term? I don't even want to think about what a new rear-axel is going to cost me if it comes to that?

Anyone think I could get away with using 3-4 bolts, and the existing stipped dish long-enough to drive the tractor back from the field into my shop (it looks awfully sad sitting on their in the fields with no wheel on it...)

Lastly, and perhaps most importantly...IS THIS A WARRANTY ISSUE? My feeling is that it is and the dealership must not have checked the bolts after the tire was taken off (to put in a tube and fill it), in order for 7 of the 8 bolts to fall off and the last one to break off. How many of you guys check the torque on your lug-nuts on a periodic basis? (Maybe you should now). What would be the best approach for getting this resolved as quickly as posssible, unfortunately, my dealer was closed by mid-afternoon yesterday when this happened so I have to sit and stew at least until Monday.

Any or all words of wisdom appreciated!

 

[Bird]

ejb, that's a tough thing to happen to a new tractor./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif I think every car, truck, trailer, and tractor manufacturer includes a statement in the manual to check the torque on the lug nuts (or bolts) frequently, so they can avoid the liability for accidents. My Kubota manual says to check them every 50 hours. Now I doubt that anyone actually does it, other than maybe once or twice when they're new. It sure does sound as if someone forgot to tighten that one wheel when they put it back on, and I believe I would expect the dealer that took them off to put the tube in and fill them to warranty that. Of course, I'd approach them courteously, telling them about the problem, but with the attitude that I just naturally assumed they were going to make it right.

As for your other questions, you can drill into the center of a bolt and sometimes remove it with as easy out, but remember that lug bolts are pretty hard steel. And damaged threads can sometimes be re-threaded, but in your situation (something as serious as holding the wheels on, and an almost new tractor), I'd want it fixed right and completely.

Bird

 

[W5FL]

After normal legal disclaimer.....

If you are going to do the repairs yourself, I would jack it up and see if you can get 4 or 5 of the lugbolts holding the wheel and drive very slowly back to the shop stopping every 100 feet or so to be sure nothing is moving. I don't believe there is a back on the axle plate, so you may be able to put nuts on the other bolts anyway. The dealer has dealt with this before, if you are going to have him do it.

It is NOT a warranty issue, but it is an expensive issue. The dealer (or you) will have to put in the 1/2 rear axle to fix it. It is possible that JD makes an adapter plate that can bolt to the old flange and save pulling the axle.

Sure hate you had this kind of problems, but let us know what they did to get it going again.

p.s. My Wife has a Jeep Cherokee and every single bolt on the car was locktited by the factory. They must have had problems too.

 

[W5FL]

ejb

When the front casting broke on my old Massey, it stopped dead when the front end hit the ground and had no front wheels at all. My son had been mowing at 5 mph or so and he said it felt like he was going over the steering wheel. It had no seat belt.

We got a guy with another tractor to help us get it out of the field. However; in retrospec, it would have been cheaper to have called a wrecker to move the tractor. Did another $100 worth of damage to the radiator moving it with a front end loader holding the front of the tractor off the ground.

Your case is different (if the ground is dry) and if you can put nuts on those bolts, you may be rolling quickly. Good luck.

 

[ejb]

If, I have to replace 1/2 of the rear axle, any guess as to how much money I am looking at? My guess is its going to cost about 8 hours labor ( x $40-$65/hr) and around $300-$400 for parts, which gets me somewhere in the $700-$1000 area. Seem about right?

Replacing the axel doesn't seem like the type of job I want to do myself...I am pretty handy but this is something that if I screwed up it would cause major problems.

Also, why not a warranty issue? I am undecided myself as to whether or not it is...half my brain says I should have been smart enough to catch it (I am very good about regular maintenance), and the other half of my brain KNOWS that that wheel couldn't have been put on right...

The bright side is I know it could have been a lot worse, had I not had the 7 foot rotary mower on, It may have rolled right over, especially since just the previous day I was cutting on some steep-ish hills.

 

[ejb]

...continued, If it turns out that the 1/2 rear axel replacment is god awful expensive, and I can't afford it right now, what do you guys think about this:

I need to get a new "dish" anyway(the part that fits inside the rim); that can't cost more than about $150 (I hope) and new lug bolts.

See how many of the holes are still good. I have a feeling that 4 or 5 will be just fine.

See how many of the remaining holes I can "encourage" a new bolt thru with my impact wrench...my guess is that 2 of them at least will work, which will leave me with 1 or 2 that won't accept a new bolt even w/encouragment.

My question: how much damage might I do if I really try and force a bolt in there and it won't go? Its already stripped (the front 1/3 of the threads) so can I make it worse?

Another question, say 1 or 2 are stripped beyond repair, what do you think about drilling out the threads to make a smooth hole, and then using a slight larger, like 1/32 or 1/16ths (and longer) bolt, and then put a nut on the backside to hold it in place. Seems like if it was done right it would avoid the need for an expensive (possibly) new rear axel.

I know that the "right" thing to do is replace the axel, but I am trying to figure out ahead of time what my options will be.

Thanks all.

(...and thanks for no "Kubota would never have these types of problem" wise-cracks, it wouldn't be a good time for that)

 

[TomG]

Real sorry that happened.

I wouldn't give up on the warranty issue. As mentioned, a diplomatic approach to the dealer might get it fixed. If that doesn't work, it might be worth a lawyer letter. Large organizations often will settle rather than risk a court case. Court cases make bad publicity and may set a disadvantageous precedent.

You might want to document the situation as much as possible. Detailed pictures of the damage would be good, and a reconstructed log of the tractor's use and any service performed by you or the dealer is useful. The first step in a liability action is called 'discovery,' and it's all about documentation.

The second day I had my used tractor, the steering arm came off the sector. Fortunately, no damage done. Good thing I was able to steer with the brakes. I remember driving back by holding the steering arm on with my toes. I do periodically do go through a tightening routine. It's an habit acquired from working on old British motorcycles, but I hadn't gotten around to it yet for the tractor. I was brand new, and just wanted to 'move that pile of dirt.'

 

[art]

The warrantee issue is grey as keeping your wheels tight is the owners repondsibilty. Often times when wheel holes get stripped out we put in longer bolts with a nut on the back and a washer on the front. Not perfect to look at but does get people by but this to would need to be retorqued after some use.

 

[Thomas]

I doubt very much if your dealer will will consume the cost of the repair.

Can you insert one size smaller bolt w/ a lock washer and nut enought to limp back?

A good machine shop or equipment mechanic might beable to do the repairs on site.

I also lost a back wheel on my Speedex tractor,for Speedex use nylon nuts at one time and when the wheel came lose the fender was badly damage.
The total cost was about $350.oo,rim,repairs,new fender,paint.

I seen on the older tractors where king pin nuts are installed,and I kinda wonder the pros and cons of that idea for the rear.

Take care and good luck.


Thomas..NH

 

[JerryG]

ejb, what I would do if my dealer wouldn't fix it is. I would put in a heli-coil. Go to your local auto parts place and tell them you want a heli-coil KIT for the size you bolt was. That large of size will have to be ordered. In the kit you will get a special size drill, some coil threads and a inserter tool. The threads will be as strong as originally or stronger. JerryG