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  1. #11
    Elite Member RalphVa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,523
    Location
    Charlottesville, VA, USA
    Tractor
    JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R

    Default Re: Help with connecting my rotary cutter

    Good summary, Michael.

    I use a tension cord stretched across and underneath the PTO shafting to help hold it up.

    Didn't discover that PTO shield that moved until the guy who delivered my MacKissic showed it to me. Raising it helps.

    Moving my PTO selector to the forward PTO location allows the rear PTO to free wheel.

    JD provided a PTO shaft on my MacKissic that has a push button. I find this works easier than that collar on the PTO shaft they provided for the LX4. It seems you're working against yourself in pulling that collar back when you want to push the PTO forward onto the shaft. Bad ergonomics.

    I always clean off the PTO and reapply white grease to it when putting a new implement on.

    I didn't go with iMatch. One reason was the KK carryall isn't compatible. Another reason is accessibility to the PTO. Still another reason is that I've found that having castors underneath implements that don't easily slide (like the carryall and LX4) makes it a whole lot easier to affix the lift arms. I've tri-castors at the ends of a 1 by underneath the front of the LX4. Can roll it around all over the basement floor.

    Ralph

  2. #12
    Elite Member rockyridgefarm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    4,461
    Location
    Road 4310
    Tractor
    Deere 4310 HST MFWD

    Default Re: Help with connecting my rotary cutter

    Ok I missed the painted pto shaft issue. I am gonna clean that up and see if that helps things for me, too. Maybe Mrs RR could put the mower on by herself then... (OH, NO! What would she keep me around for? [img]/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]!!!)

    For some reason, I have never thought to try iMatch on my MX6.... [img]/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

  3. #13
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    1,692
    Location
    SW Indiana
    Tractor
    Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST

    Default Re: Help with connecting my rotary cutter

    When I got a new mower, I noticed it was much easier to hook up than my old one. The difference was that the PTO shaft telescoped easily on the new one, making that 3 handed job into a 2.5 handed job. I guess I should have lubed the old one once in a while.

    Wish they would make that plastic PTO shroud near the tractor differently. If they would mold in some plastic bellows so it would slide back, you could get a better grip on everything.

    I like your idea of stretching the PTO shaft so you have room to work, Imatch or not.


    John


  4. #14
    Veteran Member jeffinsgf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,256
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Tractor
    JD 4410

    Default Re: Help with connecting my rotary cutter

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( Ok I missed the painted pto shaft issue. ..... )</font>

    Hmm. My 4410 did not have a speck of paint on the PTO shaft. It was nice shiny -- almost polished -- bare metal.

    I need to get one of the plastic covers for it, though. When not in use, it can get pretty grungy and it is a little awkward to get in and clean it up before hooking something up. Michael, glad I could help. I can tell you, I know EXACTLY what you went through.

    RE: turning the implement shaft instead of the tractor shaft. I guess different tractors have different set ups, but if your tractor shaft will turn, this has to be easier. Turning the 65 HP gearbox on a MX-5 takes more leverage and strength than I can exert on that floppy shaft end.

    Hope you had as much fun with your MX-5 as I did (after you finally got it attached) this weekend. I tore through some 6 ft. high multi-flora rose and 2 inch hackberry saplings. If we're going to keep fighting this drought, I am going to remove as much competition as possible from my big oaks and hickories.

  5. #15
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    66
    Location
    Southeast Iowa

    Default Re: Help with connecting my rotary cutter

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">(

    Hmm. My 4410 did not have a speck of paint on the PTO shaft. It was nice shiny -- almost polished -- bare metal.

    I need to get one of the plastic covers for it, though. When not in use, it can get pretty grungy and it is a little awkward to get in and clean it up before hooking something up. Michael, glad I could help. I can tell you, I know EXACTLY what you went through.

    RE: turning the implement shaft instead of the tractor shaft. I guess different tractors have different set ups, but if your tractor shaft will turn, this has to be easier. Turning the 65 HP gearbox on a MX-5 takes more leverage and strength than I can exert on that floppy shaft end.

    Hope you had as much fun with your MX-5 as I did (after you finally got it attached) this weekend. I tore through some 6 ft. high multi-flora rose and 2 inch hackberry saplings. If we're going to keep fighting this drought, I am going to remove as much competition as possible from my big oaks and hickories. )</font>

    My MX-5's driveline turned easily when I had the weight of the shaft suspended from a strap so I could use both hands and grip the actual U-joint. My MX-5 was brand new however. And, unit to unit, there could be a lot of variation.

    There also could be something, a twig even, preventing the shaft, gears, and blades from turning freely. One could reach under and try to rotate the blades slightly to make sure everything was free. Of course, one would not want to do this without jack stands or other support for the cutter in place.

  6. #16
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    237
    Location
    Barton, Or
    Tractor
    JD 3520 eHydro

    Default Re: Help with connecting my rotary cutter

    It was great to read this thread and find that I might not be crazy (or stupid!). I too had some big issues the first time. ...and I have an I-Match.
    It may seem rather strange, but I found laying underneath made it easier for me to hook things up.
    On a machine with so much refinement and comfort, it seemed odd to find such an infuriating and horribly designed interface. If there was just something to hook your tumbs in, it would be almost easy. It's VERY difficult to squeeze the locking ring. I have considered cutting off that plastic guard!

    I really like the bungee cord idea.

  7. #17
    Elite Member RalphVa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4,523
    Location
    Charlottesville, VA, USA
    Tractor
    JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R

    Default Re: Help with connecting my rotary cutter

    Oh, I forgot. I quickly cut away the shroud that projects over the U joint. Couldn't figure out how to twist it so that the slots lined up, etc. to slide it back. Just cut it away.

    Ralph

  8. #18
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    66
    Location
    Southeast Iowa

    Default Re: Help with connecting my rotary cutter

    It boggles the mind why JD wouldn't put a little more thought into these hookup ergonomics. Or, at least, make a manual with decent instructions and some helpful tips. Especially for the iMatch users. How much could that cost?

    I started out crawing underneath the tractor to get around the iMatch blocking my access to the PTO, but I found it not so good for visibility and a awkward position to work from. Also if the driveline slips out of your hands, guess where it lands!

    From the top, I could reach around the plastic shield and get ahold of the actual u-joint on the drive line. With the leverage of both hands, I could turn the driveline easily. I wasn't able to do that as easily from underneath. Also, I am working outside. After crawling on my back for awhile, I have to get someone to broom me off before I get in my nice new tractor cab.

    Supporting the driveline with a strap or cord so you don't have to hold it up while trying to turn and mate the two splines is a great help. It's a safety issue if you're working from underneath. And even working from the top, if you drop the driveline, by Murphy's law, it will land spline-side down in the dirt.

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