Added a Yellow Top to the 3320 today - Mounting Instructions and Pics Enclosed

[Rob-D]

OK, I did a little checking.

The Optima 'yellow top' is a deep cycle AGM battery. Deep cycle batteries are used in solar applications for instance, where the battery is usually discharged to 50% of capacity.

Batteries are rated in charge/discharge cycles. The life of the battery is an aspect of how many cycles it is capable of before it needs to be replaced. The deeper the discharge the shorter the life (fewer cycles) of the battery.

Using this battery for starting puzzles me. It seems the standard battery (red top) should work fine.

 

[ovrszd]

OK, I did a little checking.

The Optima 'yellow top' is a deep cycle AGM battery. Deep cycle batteries are used in solar applications for instance, where the battery is usually discharged to 50% of capacity.

Batteries are rated in charge/discharge cycles. The life of the battery is an aspect of how many cycles it is capable of before it needs to be replaced. The deeper the discharge the shorter the life (fewer cycles) of the battery.

Using this battery for starting puzzles me. It seems the standard battery (red top) should work fine.

I'm not sure if the Yellow Top would be any better than the Red Top on a tractor. If you have accessories on your tractor that would cause a large amp draw maybe, but under normal conditions I think the Red would work just fine.

I use Yellow Tops and Blue Top Marine versions on my Jeeps but that's because of large dramatic drains from using winches a lot. I tried Reds and they didn't last very long. I like the Blue Top Marines because of the extra terminal lugs on top for accessories.

 

[Rob-D]

If you're Red Top battery isn't lasting as long there's a good chance that you're either exceeding the alternator capacity or running the electrics when the engine is off.

What is happening is the battery is being drained excessively because it is making up for the alternator deficiency.

Automotive batteries, regardless of the vehicle, are designed to get the engine going with a tremendous initial CCA for a short duration. Once the engine is running the alternator should take over and assume complete load requirements including bringing the battery up to float charge.

Deep cycle batteries are not designed for the CCA but rather, as the name implies, deep cycles. If you look at the Optima battery line you will see that the Red Tops have a higher CCA then the Yellow Tops.

 

[Rob-D]

Continued.....

So what you should be doing is looking for a Red Top battery with the same size and specs as the original tractor battery. If the CCAs are higher then your battery will likely still be OK but don't exceed the amp hour rating by to much or the alternator may have morework to do then it can. What happens is that you start your engine and turn on the electrics while the alternator is still bringing you battery up to float voltage while it is also burdened with running your tractor lights, stereo and other accessories.

 

[ducati996]

Continued.....

So what you should be doing is looking for a Red Top battery with the same size and specs as the original tractor battery. If the CCAs are higher then your battery will likely still be OK but don't exceed the amp hour rating by to much or the alternator may have morework to do then it can. What happens is that you start your engine and turn on the electrics while the alternator is still bringing you battery up to float voltage while it is also burdened with running your tractor lights, stereo and other accessories.

Physical size is dictating everything here - if the red Optima came in a group 51 or a 22NF, this thread really wouldnt be needed. Optima dosent offer a 22NF series. So far its just a Yellow Group 51 which may no longer be available.

 

[ducati996]

Thanks Ducati.

A couple of things:
First, my statement about being able to use more electrical devices with a bigger battery still holds true. You can't.

I must of missed where this was even a question or even an objection - I think its obvious and I know I wasnt questioning it -

You have a few factors as to why it happens - the batteries location next to aluminum, the venting caps, engine heat, etc....lots of old threads on this

the batteries need to be sealed, way to many complaints about this and Im sure Deere knows by now

 

[Rob-D]

I'm not trying to be argumentative here.

As far as batteries go I'm sure there are SLA batteries that fit the specs and size of the 22NF Deere battery aside from the 51 which has been removed from the market. There are several excellent AGM batteries suppliers, Concorde for one.

I will contact some of my battery sources after measuring the battery both electrically and mechanically.

What is the time frame that battery acid problems begin to occur? Also I'm wondering if there is a way to fix or modify the caps (Hydrocaps, Water mizers, etc. also may be an option).

 

[ducati996]

I'm not trying to be argumentative here.

As far as batteries go I'm sure there are SLA batteries that fit the specs and size of the 22NF Deere battery aside from the 51 which has been removed from the market. There are several excellent AGM batteries suppliers, Concorde for one.

I will contact some of my battery sources after measuring the battery both electrically and mechanically.

What is the time frame that battery acid problems begin to occur? Also I'm wondering if there is a way to fix or modify the caps (Hydrocaps, Water mizers, etc. also may be an option).

I didnt think you were being argumentative - I just didnt want you to think I wasnt in total 100 % in aggreement with you -

I didnt mean to start a panic regarding the battery on your brand new machine. We both have time, I dont think the problem shows up right away anyway. And besides some folks never have an issue - I just raised it as a possible ( I think its most likely based on the battery design and such), so I will be addressing it and will share any info I come across....I havent found a 22NF that makes for a bolt in fit yet - So Im thinking a group 51 might work better for those with the 22NF. I really want to kick "John Deere" in the shins for picking a battery that nobody offers in a special aftermarket model.

 

[Highbeam]

This isn't a problem unique to JD. On my Kioti a typical automotive acid battery was installed when I bought it new. It leaked acid all over the place and made quite a mess. The nose of a tractor is subjected to lots of bouncing due to terrain and lack of suspension, an acid battery is just not sloshproof. I had two options, a plastic battery box which would slowly fill with acid as the battery cells empty or just replace the bloody bugger with an automotive style AGM optima style STARTING battery that meets the manual's CCA spec. I bought it from NAPA for 100$ and it matches the one I put in my pickup years ago. No acid, no spills, the way it should be.

I think the reason JD folks like the yellow top is because the color matches their tractors. There is no need for deep cycle battery in a tractor. Either that or there is no readily available starting battery meeting the physical size specs.

Rockyridgefarm nailed it when he recommended all tractor owners dump acid batteries for AGMs. The AGM battery does not give you any more power for accessories though, just superior service.

 

[GreenMtns]

The real problem here is not understanding that the OEM battery will fail in this application but that Optima has discontinued the group 51 that fits. I would certinly use a red top if it was available.
Now the thing is to get a AGM replacement battery that is the same as a 22NF that Deere and some other makers use. I have found 22NF's but Deere ties the battery down with clips at the bottom and most batteries I have found have no provision for that type of tie down.

Al