BloomingtonMike
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2004
- Messages
- 746
- Tractor
- John Deere 3320
I make no guarantee or warranty on the supplied instructions. If you blow up your machine it is on you. No warranties explicit or implied, etc, etc. Read all instructions first and print them out if needed. This is an easy install rated at a #2 on a scale of 10 - 10 being most difficult.
I Wanted to install a 30 amp relay circuit that powered a 12V cigarette lighter receptacle, and wanted a switch to control these on my 3320. I wanted it to work once armed with my lights on. Lets get started.
1. Here are some of the parts you will need - 30amp relay, a 20-30amp fuse and fuse holder (try and match the fuse holder gauge wire to the ga wire you will run from the battery), a switch to install in the JD panel (I used a gator switch part number AM117324), and a Cigarette lighter plug receptacle of your choice - try and get one with a cap. A kit box from Radio Shack is optional as is a spade block - makes things easier to connect up and reconnect up in the future. Also some small screws and nuts to mount the relay and spade block in the kit box, some wire loom, zip ties, and some various barrel, blade, and spade wire connectors in size 16-14ga (blue) and 10-12ga (yellow), also a battery ring terminal and a ground ring terminal.
Tools are wire cutter, wire stripper/crimper, screw drivers, 10mm socket for 3X20/4X20 panel bolts, drill and bits to make holes in kit box, and scissors to cut the loom and zip tie ends.
We are going to need to make up some wires.
Wire #1. This will be the wire that goes from the battery to the rear of the tractor (or wherever you want to mount the relay). Go ahead and run this now being careful to mount it where it will not come in contact with too much heat, or any moving parts. Use loom as much as you can to shield this wire. Also zip tie it up and out of the way - also be mindful to mount this so that no debris from the ground can come in contact or snag this wire. Leave the wire disconnected from the battery for now (call this #X). At the rear tractor end leave this wire end (#A) alone for now.
Wire #2 will be the switch wire. Two strands of 14ga wire will be enough. Take apart your 3X20/4X20 panel now - two 10mm bolts and two Phillips screw hold it in place. Once it is removed, remove a space blank and install the new JD switch, At this time Loom, route, and zip tie the pair of 14ga wires now as well. For the 3X20 and 4X20 panel users use the existing loom and run these wires back to the rear of the tractor as well. At the switch end attach two Female blue blade connectors and plug them into the newly installed switch - it does not matter which wire connects to at all. At the rear of the tractor end of this wire, on one strand mount a male barrel connector (call this #Z). Leave the second end (#B) alone for now.
Wire #3 will be a short ground wire 8-10ga wire about 12" long. Mount a grounding ring terminal on one end that has a big enough diameter that a screw (that goes into metal) on the tractor can pass through. Leave the other end (#C) for now.
Wire #4 will be the negative low amperage wire. Take a piece of 14ga wire about 12" long and mount a female barrel connector to it (#Y). Leave the other end alone (#D).
Wire #5 powers the barrier strip. Take a piece of 10-12ga wire about 3" long and mount a female spade connector on one end (#E) and a 12ga spade connector on the other end (#F).
Take out your Radio shack kit box. On the base mount the relay and spade strip. On the coil there will be numbers - 30, 85, 86, 87. Pins 85 and 86 are the low amp coil pins and Pins 30 and 87 are the high amp circuit pins.
In the cover on one side mount your cig lighter receptacle and drill holes for the positive and negative wire from it. Push these two wires through and mount a spade connector to the positive (#G) and Negative (#H).
On the other side of the cover drill two 1/2" holes. In one hole Push through wire #A and mount the 12ga female blade connector.
In the other hole push through #B and mount a female blade connector.
Next Push through wire #C and mount a spade connector.
Next push through wire #D and mount a female blade connector.
OK lets begin to hook this circuit up.
The Spade strip I will refer to left to right top 1,2,3,4 and bottom 5,6,7,8.
So it looks like this:
1234
5678
Take #A and plug it into relay 87.
Take Wire #B and plug it into relay 85.
Take Wire #D and plug it into relay 86.
Take wire end #E and mount it into relay 30.
Take that wire's other End #F and screw it to spade block #1.
Take Cig receptacle positive #G and screw it to spade block #5.
Take Wire #C spade and screw it to spade block #4.
Take Cig receptacle negative #H and screw it to spade block #8.
Take female barrel connector #Y and plug it into the black connector at the back of the 3X20/4X20 where the additional lights connect to (or if you have another model/type of tractor, tap into any 12V ground.
Take male barrel connector #Z and plug it into the purple connector at the back of the 3X20/4X20 where the additional lights connect to (or if you have another model/type of tractor, tap into any switched 12V source such as a positive of a lighting circuit or switched 12v source.
Next bolt the ground to a secure metal connection - try and avoid painted surfaces.
Next at the battery wire up the fuse to #X also wire in a battery ring terminal. Connect up the fuse. Watch for smoke - just in case - if you follow this write up you will be fine
Everything is connected.
This is a good time to test if you have a bare wire male cig adapter and a volt meter. Connect the leads to the wires and insert the make plug into the lighter receptacle. Turn on the lights (3X20/4X20) or flip the switch that controls your 12 switched source. Then turn on you newly installed switch - switch in the panel in the case of this write up. It should activate the relay coil pins 85 and 96 closing the circuit in the relay and allowing 12V to pass between pins 30 and 87 from the battery. The lighter adapter is also grounded so you should see 12V on the volt meter. By turning off the switch you will shut down the relay and open the 12V positive circuit and the volt meter will read 0. The same if you turn off the lights or whatever you primary switch is - volt meter will read 0.
All in all I like this setup. I know when my lights are off EVERYTHING is OFF.
Here are some pictures as well to help reinforce the write up above.
Enjoy.
Mike Heidrick
First Pic - parts
Second Pic - panel before switch
Third - panel open - new switch installed - and wires at the switched plugged in and loomed.
Fourth - New switched installed in panel
Fifth - Switch wires and 8ga from battery at rear. One of these connectors and is wrong in the picture - I changed one of these to a male barrel connector (follow the instructions above - they are correct).
Sixth - Installing the receptacle, wires, relay, and spade block in the kit box.
Seventh - The installed kit box
Eighth - Installing the fuse and battery ring terminal at the battery. I used a waterproof AGU fuse holder that is different than in picture 1 above.
I Wanted to install a 30 amp relay circuit that powered a 12V cigarette lighter receptacle, and wanted a switch to control these on my 3320. I wanted it to work once armed with my lights on. Lets get started.
1. Here are some of the parts you will need - 30amp relay, a 20-30amp fuse and fuse holder (try and match the fuse holder gauge wire to the ga wire you will run from the battery), a switch to install in the JD panel (I used a gator switch part number AM117324), and a Cigarette lighter plug receptacle of your choice - try and get one with a cap. A kit box from Radio Shack is optional as is a spade block - makes things easier to connect up and reconnect up in the future. Also some small screws and nuts to mount the relay and spade block in the kit box, some wire loom, zip ties, and some various barrel, blade, and spade wire connectors in size 16-14ga (blue) and 10-12ga (yellow), also a battery ring terminal and a ground ring terminal.
Tools are wire cutter, wire stripper/crimper, screw drivers, 10mm socket for 3X20/4X20 panel bolts, drill and bits to make holes in kit box, and scissors to cut the loom and zip tie ends.
We are going to need to make up some wires.
Wire #1. This will be the wire that goes from the battery to the rear of the tractor (or wherever you want to mount the relay). Go ahead and run this now being careful to mount it where it will not come in contact with too much heat, or any moving parts. Use loom as much as you can to shield this wire. Also zip tie it up and out of the way - also be mindful to mount this so that no debris from the ground can come in contact or snag this wire. Leave the wire disconnected from the battery for now (call this #X). At the rear tractor end leave this wire end (#A) alone for now.
Wire #2 will be the switch wire. Two strands of 14ga wire will be enough. Take apart your 3X20/4X20 panel now - two 10mm bolts and two Phillips screw hold it in place. Once it is removed, remove a space blank and install the new JD switch, At this time Loom, route, and zip tie the pair of 14ga wires now as well. For the 3X20 and 4X20 panel users use the existing loom and run these wires back to the rear of the tractor as well. At the switch end attach two Female blue blade connectors and plug them into the newly installed switch - it does not matter which wire connects to at all. At the rear of the tractor end of this wire, on one strand mount a male barrel connector (call this #Z). Leave the second end (#B) alone for now.
Wire #3 will be a short ground wire 8-10ga wire about 12" long. Mount a grounding ring terminal on one end that has a big enough diameter that a screw (that goes into metal) on the tractor can pass through. Leave the other end (#C) for now.
Wire #4 will be the negative low amperage wire. Take a piece of 14ga wire about 12" long and mount a female barrel connector to it (#Y). Leave the other end alone (#D).
Wire #5 powers the barrier strip. Take a piece of 10-12ga wire about 3" long and mount a female spade connector on one end (#E) and a 12ga spade connector on the other end (#F).
Take out your Radio shack kit box. On the base mount the relay and spade strip. On the coil there will be numbers - 30, 85, 86, 87. Pins 85 and 86 are the low amp coil pins and Pins 30 and 87 are the high amp circuit pins.
In the cover on one side mount your cig lighter receptacle and drill holes for the positive and negative wire from it. Push these two wires through and mount a spade connector to the positive (#G) and Negative (#H).
On the other side of the cover drill two 1/2" holes. In one hole Push through wire #A and mount the 12ga female blade connector.
In the other hole push through #B and mount a female blade connector.
Next Push through wire #C and mount a spade connector.
Next push through wire #D and mount a female blade connector.
OK lets begin to hook this circuit up.
The Spade strip I will refer to left to right top 1,2,3,4 and bottom 5,6,7,8.
So it looks like this:
1234
5678
Take #A and plug it into relay 87.
Take Wire #B and plug it into relay 85.
Take Wire #D and plug it into relay 86.
Take wire end #E and mount it into relay 30.
Take that wire's other End #F and screw it to spade block #1.
Take Cig receptacle positive #G and screw it to spade block #5.
Take Wire #C spade and screw it to spade block #4.
Take Cig receptacle negative #H and screw it to spade block #8.
Take female barrel connector #Y and plug it into the black connector at the back of the 3X20/4X20 where the additional lights connect to (or if you have another model/type of tractor, tap into any 12V ground.
Take male barrel connector #Z and plug it into the purple connector at the back of the 3X20/4X20 where the additional lights connect to (or if you have another model/type of tractor, tap into any switched 12V source such as a positive of a lighting circuit or switched 12v source.
Next bolt the ground to a secure metal connection - try and avoid painted surfaces.
Next at the battery wire up the fuse to #X also wire in a battery ring terminal. Connect up the fuse. Watch for smoke - just in case - if you follow this write up you will be fine
Everything is connected.
This is a good time to test if you have a bare wire male cig adapter and a volt meter. Connect the leads to the wires and insert the make plug into the lighter receptacle. Turn on the lights (3X20/4X20) or flip the switch that controls your 12 switched source. Then turn on you newly installed switch - switch in the panel in the case of this write up. It should activate the relay coil pins 85 and 96 closing the circuit in the relay and allowing 12V to pass between pins 30 and 87 from the battery. The lighter adapter is also grounded so you should see 12V on the volt meter. By turning off the switch you will shut down the relay and open the 12V positive circuit and the volt meter will read 0. The same if you turn off the lights or whatever you primary switch is - volt meter will read 0.
All in all I like this setup. I know when my lights are off EVERYTHING is OFF.
Here are some pictures as well to help reinforce the write up above.
Enjoy.
Mike Heidrick
First Pic - parts
Second Pic - panel before switch
Third - panel open - new switch installed - and wires at the switched plugged in and loomed.
Fourth - New switched installed in panel
Fifth - Switch wires and 8ga from battery at rear. One of these connectors and is wrong in the picture - I changed one of these to a male barrel connector (follow the instructions above - they are correct).
Sixth - Installing the receptacle, wires, relay, and spade block in the kit box.
Seventh - The installed kit box
Eighth - Installing the fuse and battery ring terminal at the battery. I used a waterproof AGU fuse holder that is different than in picture 1 above.
