JD 4500. Turn key and nothing

[jeverhart99]

My 4500 has been running great. I had maintenance in the spring, replaced fuel filter, air filter, battery, battery cables. Two weeks ago I got it ready for winter by using a blower to knock of dead grass (including around the engine), then cranked it up and parked it under a shelter about 2 weeks ago. Went out to crank it and *nothing*. Well, I do see the panel lights and if I hold key far to the right I hear click click. Acts like one of the safety items is kicking in, but I am in neutral, PTO is not engaged, I am sitting on the seat. Voltmeter show the battery at 12v. Water level in battery looked low, so I refilled it. Nada.

Ideas? I have been using crappy off road diesel, but if this were the fuel filter, wouldn't it at least try to crank?

Any help is appreciated....

 

[gunmaker]

Try a multimeter (voltage meter) on the battery, if it is fully charged it should read 12.6 volts dc. If is only 12 volts, it is discharged though not fully, and you can try charging it with the appropriate battery charger and then try starting. Diesels need a strong battery to crank over, cold weather decreases the batterys capability to deliver the cranking amps needed. You might try jump-starting. If the batterys several years old, it might be time for a new one.
I use a 'battery tender' maintenance type 'smart charger' on all my vehicles, and it keeps them peaked and extends their life. There could be other solutions, but I always try the simplest first. Good Luck

 

[ShookFarm]

Similar issue with my 5103. I've used my tractor and "hog" to cut in the fields several different times late summer and fall. I keep it in a wooden outbuilding to protect it from the elements. Two weeks ago it was 34 degrees out and the battery wouldn't even turn the engine over one revolution. Click, whir, cough. I jump started it off my pickup and it ran great.

Pulled my battery and took it to the dealer as it is still under warranty. They tested the battery and said, "it's good. It just needs a full charge cause it's a little low."

Parts department stated my 15 minutes of run time (since mowing stopped - I've been running it at least every two weeks) is not enough to bring the battery up to full charge. They recommended putting it on a charger to bring it up to full charge and stated it might take 1 hour of run time to get the battery to "full." They stated a maintenance charger would be a good idea.

I know the maintenance charger is not a bad idea, but, I'm not sure I'm buying this one hour story. We'll see, I guess....................

 

[rmonio]

I've had the same issue with my 4600 - but a new battery and block/hydraulic heaters helped address the problem. I also have to make sure that I let the tractor idle a bit after I shut off the lights (I installed the top and rear light kits - 4) and they can take down a battery if left on for a long time.

Good luck with it! btw, how much does a battery tender cost?

-Bob

 

[gunmaker]

They run about $30-40, but are worth the investment. I've had motorcycle batteries last 10 years, my 425 battery went 12, and my old chevelle has gone 8 now.
-Craig

 

[rcooper]

If you 4500 has a power reverser, the lever has to be moved slightly up or down as you try to start it. The safety switch is very tempermental on models equiped with the power reverser. I usually have to jiggle the lever after the machine has been run for awhile. The sad part is that this began after JD upgraded the safety switches on mine.

 

[dbdartman]

Check your fuses. If your 4500 is anything like my 4400, the starter circuit is fuse protected. I went through the whole "it won't start" thing last spring & it turned out to be a $3 thermister (thermal resister) in the shut-off solenoid circuit (it cranked but wouldn't start). Now, the last 2 times I used the tractor it would do NOTHING when I hit the starter. I started fooling with the fuses (removing & installing, scraping the contacts) & it suddenly cranked over!