Hello out there. I'm new to this discussion board and just bought my son a 1941 John Deere Model H. I want to drain, flush, and refill all the fluids. I was wondering whether or not synthetic oils and lubricants can be used? I know they have a tendency to find fissures and or other small imperfections in gaskets as opposed to conventional lubricants. Anyone with any experiences, whether good or bad please help me out. Thanks in advance.
Synthetics in old two cylinders?
- Thread starter JD IN Pa
- Start date
DonWorrell
Gold Member
I personally wouldn't. A John Deere A has babbitted bearings. The are not bearings you can replace. You bave to have the pistons rebabbited. Don't know abut a Model H. But with that old of a gtractor i would just use a good detergent oil.
Don
Don
I thought the same thing with my newly restored 60 but because of the use it would see it would not be worth it.Besides will be changing motor oil every couple of years anyway.The new dino oils are so good today they are very hard to ignore in these vintage machines.
buickanddeere
Super Member
If starting and using the tractor at 0F and colder temps.
A good grade of detergent oil or non detergent depending on factory specs and personal prefference. In my Case I use 30weight non detergent because that is what it has used for the last 67 years and still runs strong.
67 years ago wow that must have been about the time the world was converting from whale oil to petroleum.I do agree especially as good as the oils are today.Only been at it a little over 50 yrs just a pup.
Without any thought, do not replace a nondetergent oil with a detergent, or for that matter a synthetic oil. All you will do is stir up desolved deposits in the oil pan and cause it to get stuck in oil gallies etc.. Unless the engine, etc. has been completely went thru, acid bath, etc, never change the original oil. And especially, as stated above, babbitted bearings are an art, no longer practiced. Trying to find one of these real mechinist, or mechanics is a lost art.
Soundguy
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going from a non detergent oil to a detergent oil is not a big deal.
if you are worried about a massive amount of sludge breaking loose.. just do it gradually.
besides. if it took 60 ys to deposit. it's not all coming out on the first oil change anyway.
I've converted many ND machine over to detergent.
the dirties one was a jd B
took about 5 oil changes and 3 filters till she ran clean.
for synthetics?
I'd want to go thru and change all seals and gaskets before doing so.
the benefit? marginal on a machine that sees low hours.. though in cold weather there might be some better lube at startup.
if I was rebuilding one and planned on using it.. syn sure won't hurt. just did so on a 63 4000 ford.
if you are worried about a massive amount of sludge breaking loose.. just do it gradually.
besides. if it took 60 ys to deposit. it's not all coming out on the first oil change anyway.
I've converted many ND machine over to detergent.
the dirties one was a jd B
took about 5 oil changes and 3 filters till she ran clean.
for synthetics?
I'd want to go thru and change all seals and gaskets before doing so.
the benefit? marginal on a machine that sees low hours.. though in cold weather there might be some better lube at startup.
if I was rebuilding one and planned on using it.. syn sure won't hurt. just did so on a 63 4000 ford.
Thinking back can remember some old timers talking about flushing motors with kerosene.Back in the 60's a friend bought a can of motor flush at auto parts store poured it in a 400ci Pontiac and drove it 4 miles home,by the time he drove in his driveway it was starting to knock.The can of flush stated "Do Not Drive" only idle for so many minutes.