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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    9
    Location
    Dentsville, MD
    Tractor
    1946 John Deere Model A, 1964 MF35

    Default John Deere Model A (1946)

    I pryed and broke apart the original exhaust/intake manifold to get it up and off the original studs and I found a mouse nest in the head. I'm now removing the head to clean it out and I've decided I might as well hone and rebuild the cylinders so I have a pretty fresh engine. I was wondering what is the best way to do this? If I remove the block it looks like the front frame of the tractor is actually attached to the block but that doesn't make sense to me. Anyone done this and if so what kind of fun do I have to look forward to, despite removing the 60 year old bolts? Thanks.

  2. #2
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    18
    Location
    Northen Michigan
    Tractor
    John Deere

    Default Re: John Deere Model A (1946)

    I haven't done this on an A but did it on a 60 and a B and in the process of the second B. A 1949 B that was my Dad's. You can pull the block and not have to break the tractor in two. Gotta pull the sheet steel and the gas tank. Good luck with the bolts and studs. Willie

  3. #3
    Super Member flusher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    6,461
    Location
    Northern California-Tehama Co.
    Tractor
    2008 Mahindra 5525, 1964 MF-135 diesel, 1951 Farmall Super A, 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF, 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop, 1949 JD B widefront

    Default Re: John Deere Model A (1946)

    Quote Originally Posted by WranglerBowman View Post
    I pryed and broke apart the original exhaust/intake manifold to get it up and off the original studs and I found a mouse nest in the head. I'm now removing the head to clean it out and I've decided I might as well hone and rebuild the cylinders so I have a pretty fresh engine. I was wondering what is the best way to do this? If I remove the block it looks like the front frame of the tractor is actually attached to the block but that doesn't make sense to me. Anyone done this and if so what kind of fun do I have to look forward to, despite removing the 60 year old bolts? Thanks.
    Rusted bolts--50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid and a lot of patience if the bolts are really rusted tight. Nothing more aggrevating that snapping off an old bolt and then having to carefully drill out the hole without messing up the threads in the casting. I'm doing this now on a 1948 Farmall Cub (the two bolts that hold the seat bracket and floor to the right rear axle housing are really rusted).

    Good luck.

  4. #4
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    18
    Location
    Northen Michigan
    Tractor
    John Deere

    Default Re: John Deere Model A (1946)

    I really like "PB Blaster" for rusted bolts. I am constantly amazed. "Kroil" workers great too but unless you work in aircraft it's hard to come by. Either way all the stuff has to sit and work. Can't imagine spraying it on a turning out by finger. Good luck. Willie

  5. #5
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    59
    Location
    LUzerne,MI
    Tractor
    JD 3520

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WillieMcCoy
    I really like "PB Blaster" for rusted bolts. I am constantly amazed. "Kroil" workers great too but unless you work in aircraft it's hard to come by. Either way all the stuff has to sit and work. Can't imagine spraying it on a turning out by finger. Good luck. Willie
    Try Kanolabs.com for all types of solvents. They are great to order from and their prices are reasonable.

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