John Deere Model A (1946)

   / John Deere Model A (1946) #1  
Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Messages
25
Location
Dentsville, MD
Tractor
1946 John Deere A, 1964 MF35, 1958 MF 50, Farmall Super A's x3, Farmall 140, Farmall Cub, Ford 3000, JD 1520
I pryed and broke apart the original exhaust/intake manifold to get it up and off the original studs and I found a mouse nest in the head. I'm now removing the head to clean it out and I've decided I might as well hone and rebuild the cylinders so I have a pretty fresh engine. I was wondering what is the best way to do this? If I remove the block it looks like the front frame of the tractor is actually attached to the block but that doesn't make sense to me. Anyone done this and if so what kind of fun do I have to look forward to, despite removing the 60 year old bolts? Thanks.
 
   / John Deere Model A (1946) #2  
I haven't done this on an A but did it on a 60 and a B and in the process of the second B. A 1949 B that was my Dad's. You can pull the block and not have to break the tractor in two. Gotta pull the sheet steel and the gas tank. Good luck with the bolts and studs. Willie
 
   / John Deere Model A (1946) #3  
I pryed and broke apart the original exhaust/intake manifold to get it up and off the original studs and I found a mouse nest in the head. I'm now removing the head to clean it out and I've decided I might as well hone and rebuild the cylinders so I have a pretty fresh engine. I was wondering what is the best way to do this? If I remove the block it looks like the front frame of the tractor is actually attached to the block but that doesn't make sense to me. Anyone done this and if so what kind of fun do I have to look forward to, despite removing the 60 year old bolts? Thanks.

Rusted bolts--50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid and a lot of patience if the bolts are really rusted tight. Nothing more aggrevating that snapping off an old bolt and then having to carefully drill out the hole without messing up the threads in the casting. I'm doing this now on a 1948 Farmall Cub (the two bolts that hold the seat bracket and floor to the right rear axle housing are really rusted).

Good luck.
 
   / John Deere Model A (1946) #4  
I really like "PB Blaster" for rusted bolts. I am constantly amazed. "Kroil" workers great too but unless you work in aircraft it's hard to come by. Either way all the stuff has to sit and work. Can't imagine spraying it on a turning out by finger. Good luck. Willie
 
   / John Deere Model A (1946) #5  
WillieMcCoy said:
I really like "PB Blaster" for rusted bolts. I am constantly amazed. "Kroil" workers great too but unless you work in aircraft it's hard to come by. Either way all the stuff has to sit and work. Can't imagine spraying it on a turning out by finger. Good luck. Willie

Try Kanolabs.com for all types of solvents. They are great to order from and their prices are reasonable.
 
 
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