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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    2

    Default John Deere 1010 wont start

    Hello all thanks for reading my post. I will give you a brief history of the tractor i have. I bought it in november of last year, when i bought it i knew it needed a clutch and it would be a good winter project. The tractor had sat out for years and i was buying it off of the son in law who knew nothing about it. Long story short it was in good shape for as long as it had been sitting. It was not running. I brought it home, put points,condensor and fresh gas in it and it started and ran. After knowing the motor was good i decided o split it and put a new clutch in it.
    I got the clutch put back in it and went to start it to test it and it would not start. I had good spark but found out no gas. When i pulled the choke i would get gas coming out of the carb onto the starter. I tried several different things but not luck, then the carb started pouring gas out non stop so i figured the float was stuck. I tore it apart and ended up rebuilding it. I put it back together and put it on and it still will not start.
    While trying to start it i put my hand over the carb to Choke it and i didnt feel like there was much suction. So i thought maybe a valve was sticking open or something. I decided to take the exhaust manifold off and see if it was the gasket. When i got it off i saw a crack in the exhaust side. I had a guy weld it(for now). I put new gaskets on and tried it again but nothing still will not start.
    I decided to try pulling it. I pulled it with my 4010 and went about 10 feet and it started and ran like a champ. And i found out my clutch works fine.
    Any ideas what it could be?
    Im guessing the intake/exhaust manifold need replaced but i dont want to spend $275-$475 on a new one if that isnt the problem.
    Im guessing it could be a crack in the intake side that i cant see and that its sucking air in the crack intead of through the carb, with the starter its not turning over fast enough but when pulling it turns faster.
    On another note the ignition switch was missing, i have a new one and i cant find a wiring diagram does anyone know which wires go on what terminal? i have the following wires.
    1.headlights
    2.starter solenoid
    3.hot from battery
    4.power to coil
    5.power to oil pressure/voltage light/fuel guage
    6. and im thinking the other is a wire that gives the coil a full 12 volts when starting(not sure)

    Any imformation or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks

  2. #2
    Silver Member Varmint1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    170
    Location
    Deville,La
    Tractor
    JD 1010, JD 970, Farmall Super A,Komatsu D20A-5,Ford 4500,Ford 4000 forklift,Ford 640 w/703 loader

    Default Re: John Deere 1010 wont start

    I would remove the valve cover and check valve clearance, also check and see how much movement you have with the valves (back and fourth) valve guides could be bad

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Jerry/MT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,059
    Location
    Western Montana
    Tractor
    New Holland TD95D, Ford 4610 & Ferguson TO-30

    Default Re: John Deere 1010 wont start

    Quote Originally Posted by crib79 View Post
    Hello all thanks for reading my post. I will give you a brief history of the tractor i have. I bought it in november of last year, when i bought it i knew it needed a clutch and it would be a good winter project. The tractor had sat out for years and i was buying it off of the son in law who knew nothing about it. Long story short it was in good shape for as long as it had been sitting. It was not running. I brought it home, put points,condensor and fresh gas in it and it started and ran. After knowing the motor was good i decided o split it and put a new clutch in it.
    I got the clutch put back in it and went to start it to test it and it would not start. I had good spark but found out no gas. When i pulled the choke i would get gas coming out of the carb onto the starter. I tried several different things but not luck, then the carb started pouring gas out non stop so i figured the float was stuck. I tore it apart and ended up rebuilding it. I put it back together and put it on and it still will not start.
    While trying to start it i put my hand over the carb to Choke it and i didnt feel like there was much suction. So i thought maybe a valve was sticking open or something. I decided to take the exhaust manifold off and see if it was the gasket. When i got it off i saw a crack in the exhaust side. I had a guy weld it(for now). I put new gaskets on and tried it again but nothing still will not start.
    I decided to try pulling it. I pulled it with my 4010 and went about 10 feet and it started and ran like a champ. And i found out my clutch works fine.
    Any ideas what it could be?
    Im guessing the intake/exhaust manifold need replaced but i dont want to spend $275-$475 on a new one if that isnt the problem.
    Im guessing it could be a crack in the intake side that i cant see and that its sucking air in the crack intead of through the carb, with the starter its not turning over fast enough but when pulling it turns faster.
    On another note the ignition switch was missing, i have a new one and i cant find a wiring diagram does anyone know which wires go on what terminal? i have the following wires.
    1.headlights
    2.starter solenoid
    3.hot from battery
    4.power to coil
    5.power to oil pressure/voltage light/fuel guage
    6. and im thinking the other is a wire that gives the coil a full 12 volts when starting(not sure)

    Any imformation or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks
    The first thing I recommend for "no start" conditions is the spark. make sure that you have a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, the color of lightning. A spindly blue, reddish blue, or yellowish spark won't cut it. You can take an old spark plug open the ground up to about 1/4" and use it to test the spark., or you can simply pull the center wire outof the distributor cap, hold it near a good ground and with the ignition "ON" crank the starter. If you have the requisite spark, make sure your firing orer is correct. if you don't have the requisite spark, check the points for burning, corrosion, oil, and make sure they are correctly adjusted. With the key on and the points closed you should have battery voltage on the battery side of the coil and near zero volts on the distributor side of the coil. Make sure the coil is properly hooked up with the distributor side of the coil having the same sign as the battery ground. If you get it running again check the timing and the advance. This check will cover the normal ignition system problems. you may have what I call a by pass ignition system(This has two circuits to the coil; one with a resistor and one without. When the key is in the START position, the resistor is by passed and when the key is in the RUN position, the resistor is in series with the coil for a reduce primary currrent. This gives max coil current and a hotter spark for starting and a reduced current for normal running, extending point life.) If the resistor fails( open circuit) the engine will tend to start but as soon as you releae the START switch it will die.

    Make sure you have adequate fuel delivery to the carb. If the intake manifold is cracked or rusted out, or has a gasket leaking, the mixture will get overly leaned because air will enter the manifold bypassing the carb's metering section. make sure the carb is properly adjusted.

    Since you were able to pull start it, I'd suspect the valves need adjustment. If you can get it started again, let it come to operating temperature and then do a compression check, both dry and wet. (Remove the plugs to make it easy on the starter. The throttle plate and the choke plate should be wde open and the air cleaner should be disconnected.)This will give you an indication of the condition of the rings and valves.

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