'39 H engine problems

   / '39 H engine problems #1  

69911e

New member
Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
6
Location
Hebron CT
Tractor
JD '39 H,MF TO-35 '55, Case580B
I need to identify and repair the engine on the '39 H my grandfather purchased new. One of the cylinders has no compression and thought this would be a good project with my 2 boys. The engine was rebuild in the early 70s and very little time was put on it. When I took it out in the early-mid 80's for a few tractor pulls (running on the good cylinder) the cylinder had no compression and I didn't have enough engine experience to address at the time. In retrospect, I should have checked the simple stuff.
I do plan on doing a leak down test prior to opening it up.
I stopped running when I found 2 1/8" to 1/4" ball bearings (so long ago, I can't remember the size) in the oil the last time it was drained. As this was before the internet, I had no easy way of identifying where these could have come from.
Any ideas where these balls could have come from? Obviously, I can't run it until this is fixed.....
 
   / '39 H engine problems #2  
I am thinking the bearing is from the crank shaft. Most likely the rear bearing. Have you checked your clutch to see if there is oil in its housing. When the bearings go they almost always take the seals with them.
 
   / '39 H engine problems #3  
Do you see the tube that houses the fan driveshaft? The back end of it terminates in an angle drive and I believe your ball bearings came from one of the bearings in that angle drive. It's possible that the balls were from a bearing that was replaced in the 70's rebuild, and the two loose ones just didn't get cleaned out. You'll find out when you pull it all apart. :)

Here's a little manual that is about how to start, operate and adjust the John Deere Model H.

http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/v...1052&context=tractormuseumlit&type=additional
 
   / '39 H engine problems
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for replies.
Mike: It has been so long since it has run, I don't know about a rear bearing-seal leak.
Mace: Do I have to remove the angle drive to inspect? Thanks for the manual link; there is lots of info I didn't know about in it.

We will start taking things apart until I find the origin.

Ed
 
   / '39 H engine problems
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I noticed the manual from the link above was dated '38. There has been a long standing debate related to this tractor.
The story involved my grandfather, this tractor, and the flood in CT Sept 1938. We all assumed this was incorrect due to the first tractor made in '39. Anyone know when production actually started?
 
   / '39 H engine problems #6  
Thanks for replies.
Mike: It has been so long since it has run, I don't know about a rear bearing-seal leak.
Mace: Do I have to remove the angle drive to inspect? Thanks for the manual link; there is lots of info I didn't know about in it.

We will start taking things apart until I find the origin.

Ed
Yes, I don't think there is any way to inspect it without disassemble.
 
   / '39 H engine problems
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I looked further and found oil in the clutch housing. Will I be able to see the bearing by removing the top cover of the crankcase or do I need to remove the clutch and bearing from the clutch side?
I found the serial #; 3616
Thanks
Ed
 
   / '39 H engine problems
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Found a problem: the cam gear is very loose. About 1/4" play sliding on the camshaft and it can twist about 3-5 degrees on the shaft. I can't believe this is as designed as all the engine power is transmitted through this cam gear. It appears this is unrelated to the bearing issue as the flywheel; side cam bearing seems fine and the nut is tight.
Anyone know if this should be like this? Is there a definitive rebuild manual for this? I have seen general manuals, but not ones which carry this level of detail.
Thanks
Ed
 
   / '39 H engine problems
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Yes, I don't think there is any way to inspect it without disassemble.

How do I disassemble the fan driveshaft to inspect the bearings? I removed the clip at the end of the gear, but it does not seem to come off. Should it simply slide off? Should I use some heat?

How much clearance should the rod bearings have? They currently have enough to visibly see movement relative to the crank; I would guess .010" to .020". On any engines I have worked on this would be way to much. Is this acceptable or do I need to change the rod bearings also?
 
 
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