Another Painting Question

[flusher]

Ok sounds like I am going to be getting a smaller gun and doing everything with that. I guess I never really thought about god paint sticking to rattle can. Currently I have a siphon feed gun but have been reading about the gravity feed guns a harbor freight ( purple guns). I think I might pick one up and use it. I hope to get painting soon, but I will not rush the prep work.

Any other suggestions on paint to use? Is the dealer paint any good, like I said I really don't want to to fade and look some crazy color of green in 5 years. Lol. Thanks for all the input!

I use those purple Harbor Freight guns. I wait for a sale and pick up a few. When they become too time consuming to clean properly, I junk them and break out a fresh, new gun.

 

[Soundguy]

i tend to prefer a syphon gun with an aluminum tank. less leakage issues.. bit both work. gravity gun uses less air overall.

lil 40z guns are neat for shooting a single aprt or panel.

all my painting is single stage alkyd or synthetic enamil. dealer paint is fine. you can get the same formula from other places though. IE.. tsc has majic paint that will be alkyd. nason makes a synthetic alkyd line.. just uses different reducer..e tc..

Ok sounds like I am going to be getting a smaller gun and doing everything with that. I guess I never really thought about god paint sticking to rattle can. Currently I have a siphon feed gun but have been reading about the gravity feed guns a harbor freight ( purple guns). I think I might pick one up and use it. I hope to get painting soon, but I will not rush the prep work.

Any other suggestions on paint to use? Is the dealer paint any good, like I said I really don't want to to fade and look some crazy color of green in 5 years. Lol. Thanks for all the input!

 

[nc redneck]

I ran my own collision repair center for 30 years until a large corporation thought it was worth more to them than it was for me. Good paint is a very expensive project. Most people don't realize that 10 to 15 % of the cost of a new car or truck is in refinish cost. Everyone with a new car is driving around in a $ 2 to $5 thousand paint job and don't understand.
I have found for farm equipment a good but not the best by far ( cheap ) procedure for bare metal is. Purple or great stuff ( sold at Agri Supply )applied dry and hit with a red 3M pad. Rinse with fresh water then apply Metal Prep according to directions and rinse again with fresh water. Dry with compressed air.
DP-40 Epoxy comes in a few different colors depending on finished product. Air dry then apply finish coat. Look for at least a polyurethane 2 part for finish coat. If you get paint for less than $ 150.00 per gallon you are wasting your time.
Hope this helps
Scott

 

[Soundguy]

If you get paint for less than $ 150.00 per gallon you are wasting your time.
Hope this helps
Scott

or wasting money??

I understand your opinion, as you did AUTO refinish.

I can tell you that the paint that came on the tractor from the factory for these antiques was a single stage alkyd. The dealers still sell that. single stage alkyd.

That paint will be as good as when they left the factory.

I simply can't see putting a multi stage 'car' paint job on a machine that is going to drive thru weeds and bushes.

if it was a parade queen, done for an advertisement.. or you had enough money that you light cigars with 100$ bills. go for the car paint job on the tractor.. then for lunch you can hop in the private plane and fly somewhere.

The look of a paint job is WAY more in the prep work, than the stuff you spray on.

5$ and 5 minutes of prep work and 200$ a gal paint is gonna look like a 5$ paint job.

hundreds or thousands of dollars in equivalent labor and time and prep on the tractor and 35$ a gallon paint will look like a million bucks after you shoot it.

I've kept logs of when i do my tractor refurbs. Labor hours can go into the 300-400 range on a unit needing average work,.. and that's not including engine rebuild time. just regular fixing and tin work.

figuring them hours into cost and prep.. and you are into real money invested if you paid yourself even minimum wage. that's the kind of good prep work I'm talking about... not a pressure wash and then auction-style prime and paint all the hoses and cables spray job.

 

[MH50]

if it was a parade queen, done for an advertisement.. or you had enough money that you light cigars with 100$ bills. go for the car paint job on the tractor.. then for lunch you can hop in the private plane and fly somewhere.

LOL light cigars with 100 dollar bills! Thats a good one! I usually dont do that when flying in my private jet since i dont want the jet smelling like cigars! lol

I have used a single stage polyurthane paint and a single stage alkyd paint. The polyurthane has really seemed to hold up much better. Three years after painting it still really shines! The other paint still looks good, but its color has changed a little and its a little dull. These are from painting Masseys and some other red things...

I really have little experience with the green paint and I didnt know the quality of the different paints out there. I do not need an automotive paint job its a tractor and it will be getting scratched and abused...lol! But at the same time I have alot of prep work in on this and I want it to look good and stay looking good for a long time.

That being said i am still on the fence between the NAPA paint and the JD dealer paint. Anyone have any paint codes for napa?

 

[nc redneck]

souNdguy
I was not trying to start a argument, just supply some information that could help you. One thing you may want to consider. Removing and repainting a failed , faded or peeling coating on a tractor is a huge and expensive job. Most times it will require 100s of hours of disassembling parts. Removing bad coating by chemical stripper, sand or bead blasting and or sanding. Then you still have to buy paint again and repeat the whole job. It seems to me that this makes a few $100 dollars in material a very good investment.
Paint technology has gone through huge advances over the past 20 years. If you decide to buy a higher end paint I don't think 15 years from now when it still looks as good as the day you painted it. You would ever regret the extra money. Newer paints can withstand repeated harsh chemical power washing and years setting in the sun with no ill affects.
Any local Auto Paint store will have a color match camera. Just take a part ( in best non faded ) condition to them and color camera will produce mixing formula instantly. You may want to purchase a small amount usually 1/2 pint. To see color before buying complete amount.
Best of luck to you in whatever you decide. Hope this info helps
Scott

 

[MH50]

souNdguy
I was not trying to start a argument, just supply some information that could help you. One thing you may want to consider. Removing and repainting a failed , faded or peeling coating on a tractor is a huge and expensive job. Most times it will require 100s of hours of disassembling parts. Removing bad coating by chemical stripper, sand or bead blasting and or sanding. Then you still have to buy paint again and repeat the whole job. It seems to me that this makes a few $100 dollars in material a very good investment.
Paint technology has gone through huge advances over the past 20 years. If you decide to buy a higher end paint I don't think 15 years from now when it still looks as good as the day you painted it. You would ever regret the extra money. Newer paints can withstand repeated harsh chemical power washing and years setting in the sun with no ill affects.
Any local Auto Paint store will have a color match camera. Just take a part ( in best non faded ) condition to them and color camera will produce mixing formula instantly. You may want to purchase a small amount usually 1/2 pint. To see color before buying complete amount.
Best of luck to you in whatever you decide. Hope this info helps
Scott

I totally agree with you the single stage is a little easier for me and it was still like 130 bucks a gallon. I would much rather buy the nicer paint to get it to last longer. In my opinion the difference between what I have used and the even nicer paints is mostly the finish, not necessarily the fade resistance and durability of the paint. But I do not have any pofessional experience. The single stage eurthane has definatly held up much better than the single stage alkyd. That is a fact. My Massey Harris 50 is two different colors red and a bronze gold and was painted almost 4 years ago. The bronze gold (eurthane) still looks like new (when i spray the dirt and mud off...lol) the red (alkyd) still looks good but has definatly faded some and is getting a little dull. Now I also used the TSC paint, so I think the dealer paint might be better. The biggest negative to the eurthane paints that I see is the bad health effects, seems they are far worse than most other types of paints and this is one of the reasons i was asking about the dealer paints.

I have around one hundred hours into this thing and it still proabbly needs 20 more before it is ready for primer. I do want it to look great and have the colr last.

thanks,
Matt

 

[Soundguy]

I wasn't arguing.. and I'm not the one doing the painting.

Just relating my experience painting tractors and farm implements and construction equipment.

I'd kind of hard putting on 100+$ a gallon of paint, then makeing the stack smoke.. then driving into the woods and start pushing trees or drive thru chest high multi flora rose to hog it, and see that high dollar paint peel up when a limb swings up and hits the machine.

I don't drive a caddy in the pasture.. or a tractor in a car show.


As for the peeling paint? sound slike application and or non compatible paint / primer / metal prep.

I've never had one peel.

I full;y iunderstand the housr of prep that go into a restoration... I do all my own body work and painting.

I've simply found single stage alkyd to be fast, cheap and easy to lay down.. for a worker it's always been fine for me.

No question I wouldn't paint my lotus espree turbo ( that i don't own ) with it.. but then.. the dealer still sells alkyd paint as the oe paint for their machines.

if it was good for them?? good enough for me.

my opinion only.. anyone else is free to burn as much money as possible putting racing stripes and chrome on their weekend mulch mover. ... I mean hey.. the paint execs need their bonus and vacations too!

souNdguy
I was not trying to start a argument, just supply some information that could help you. One thing you may want to consider. Removing and repainting a failed , faded or peeling coating on a tractor is a huge and expensive job. Most times it will require 100s of hours of disassembling parts. Removing bad coating by chemical stripper, sand or bead blasting and or sanding. Then you still have to buy paint again and repeat the whole job. It seems to me that this makes a few $100 dollars in material a very good investment.
Paint technology has gone through huge advances over the past 20 years. If you decide to buy a higher end paint I don't think 15 years from now when it still looks as good as the day you painted it. You would ever regret the extra money. Newer paints can withstand repeated harsh chemical power washing and years setting in the sun with no ill affects.
Any local Auto Paint store will have a color match camera. Just take a part ( in best non faded ) condition to them and color camera will produce mixing formula instantly. You may want to purchase a small amount usually 1/2 pint. To see color before buying complete amount.
Best of luck to you in whatever you decide. Hope this info helps
Scott

 

[MH50]

So does anyone have experience with the paint from the dealer? Does it hold up in the sun?

 

[mfreund]

A guy I know that does tractor restorations for a living will only use JD paint. I don't paint, just forwarding what I have seen.