Fuel line question 1949 B

   / Fuel line question 1949 B #1  

w9trb

New member
Joined
Aug 27, 2014
Messages
7
Location
Tuscola, Illinois
Tractor
John Deere "B"
This is the B that my Father-in-law bought in 1949 when he started farming. My wife and I would like to get it running and then painted up nice so that we could run it in local parades. The problem is that it will start first try and then dies out. Part of that problem,I think, is that the fuel line from the fuel bowl to the carb is home-made and has too many curves in it for a gravity flow system. I purchased a new fuel line on-line from Steiner's and it is about two or more inches too long as you can see from the attached photos.

My questions are:
1. Is this the right fuel bowl?
2. Is this the right carb?
3. On the right hand side of the carb is a fitting, if I bend or fabricate a new fuel line, can I attach it to the right hand fitting?

Of course, if anyone reading this sees anything else that is incorrect, please chime in.

Much thanks for anyone who can help with this situation.

Terry Bassett





B_serial247351-1-6.jpgB_serial247351-1.jpgB_serial247351-1-8.jpg
 
   / Fuel line question 1949 B #2  
Suggestion is to go to jdparts.com and look at the parts that are associated with the carb and fuel line. May help satisfy your question about correct carb too. Knowing your serial number will help.
 
   / Fuel line question 1949 B
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The serial number is 247351, so it is a late production tractor. I will take off the fuel line and check that it is not cruddy inside. If not, then I will try adjusting the idle to see if that helps. Is there a certain number of turns of the idle adjustment that is desireable for starting? The carb has a rebuild kit in it, the work was performed by a local shop. Perhaps they don't have it set right or the colder weather requires a different position?
 
   / Fuel line question 1949 B #4  
Did you look at the parts shown for your B in the jdparts.com site?
 
   / Fuel line question 1949 B
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Beenthere: Yes I have looked at jdparts.com. In catalog PC330 it shows the fuel bowl oriented 180 degrees differently than the orientation of the one mounted on my tractor. I will rotate mine and see if the new fuel line will mount that way.
 
   / Fuel line question 1949 B #6  
I would also su spectacular the could be lots of rust in the tank that is plugging the petcock connects to the tank. IIs the fuel bowl empty when it quits?
 
   / Fuel line question 1949 B
  • Thread Starter
#7  
The tank has been acid washed this summer and a small nipple was added to where the fuel flows to the bowl, such that the very bottom of the tank does not get sucked to the bowl. The additional nipple extends about one half inch upwards into the tank. The tractor has fresh fuel and has been stationary for a few weeks. I clean the bowl and filter prior to attempting to start. The tractor starts with first try but soon dies. The bowl has been full each time when this happens. So, I am still scratching my head over this situation. I will get over there Saturday and see if I can rotate the fuel bowl assembly and get the new fuel line attached. I still need to find out the initial turns setting for the idle adjustment and the high speed adjustment, I am thinking that they are not right or that the person who did the rebuild kit on the carb did something incorrect. But, I am an amateur at all this, so who knows what the solution will be!
 
   / Fuel line question 1949 B #8  
Then I would think the float is sticking and not allowing the needle to come off the seat.
 
   / Fuel line question 1949 B #9  
Idle should be about 1 1/2 turns out and the load about 1 turn out.
float level should be about 1/2" from the bowl to the top of the float when you tip the whole thing upside down.
Open the drain on the bottom of the bowl to check for good gas flow after it dies.
There is a brass filter screen under that brass bolt where the fuel line goes in
Carb should be a #67 or 73 for the serial number others will certainly let it run ok

It may have a rebuild kit in it but it doesn't look like any of the brass screws have been removed recently, only way to clean the passages is to get a wire through them.

Good luck
Tim
 
 
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