Water is coming out of my exhaust on my JD 2010

[Tx Jim]

Is it water or is it coolant ?

Op stated liquid was "yellow in color" so it's probably antifreeze.

 

[Tx Jim]

Sorry but I'm not a mechanic I don't understand what you're referring too, sleeve deck or both deck gasket and top gasket. Can you please tell someone that's not a mechanic what you are referring too......lol, Thank you for the information

Sleeve deck is parts key 1 & deck gasket is parts key 2

 

[danpaul1]

Is it water or is it coolant ?

It's yellow in color so I believe it's the water from the radiator. I'm certain it's the Prestone antifreeze, I only use Prestone Antifreeze in all my vehicles. Plus I used my shop vac. to vacuum the water out of the one inlet exhaust manifold, that's the only one of the two ports the antifreeze was in, could it be from one of the four turbulence chambers that I pulled out and got the old glow plugs out of I replaced all of the O-rings and cleaned them with Scotch Brite cloth, I even used the correct lube on them so one of the O-rings would not be cut when I re installed all four of the turbulence chambers.

 

[danpaul1]

The Sleeve Deck and the Gasket can I replace those two items, or doesn't the Sleeve Deck just pull out and the new one set back into place. Does the head need to be machined down or does the engine block need to be machined (I made a living until I retired as a Electrical/Electronic person in Nuclear Power so I've been around very good machinist and I paid close attention) what I'm trying to say I know certain areas need to be resurfaced or resleeved, plus this is on a 1963 Diesel John Deere model 2010.

 

[buickanddeere]

The Sleeve Deck and the Gasket can I replace those two items, or doesn't the Sleeve Deck just pull out and the new one set back into place. Does the head need to be machined down or does the engine block need to be machined (I made a living until I retired as a Electrical/Electronic person in Nuclear Power so I've been around very good machinist and I paid close attention) what I'm trying to say I know certain areas need to be resurfaced or resleeved, plus this is on a 1963 Diesel John Deere model 2010.

Not to insult you or your tractor. The 1010's diesel engine and the 2010's diesel engine plus the 2010 chassis are problematic and best stayed away from. Unless you have deep pockets and like a challenge.
It's going to require less time and money to cut your losses and find something better.

 

[danpaul1]

Thank you for your honesty, if I had not purchased this tractor when my late wife and I bought the land that I live on to this day, the 2010 may not have meant to me what it does but it was our first tractor and it means the world to me, I think I'll keep working on it a little longer and if I could not get it running again then so be it, it would look good sitting at the end of my drive way "Good Memories"

 

[63spyder]

Did you replace the copper washers that seal the turbulence chambers to the combustion chamber to keep out the antifreeze, if nothing else you need to aneal the copper washers so they are soft again. My self I would replace. I have a 1010 diesel crawler with six way blade.

 

[rScotty]

Thank you for your honesty, if I had not purchased this tractor when my late wife and I bought the land that I live on to this day, the 2010 may not have meant to me what it does but it was our first tractor and it means the world to me, I think I'll keep working on it a little longer and if I could not get it running again then so be it, it would look good sitting at the end of my drive way "Good Memories"

I am a mechanic, but unfortunately I do not know that engine. Which means I can't help with the engine-specific little tricks that apply to it.

But I'd like to back up a step. If it did not leak before you did the initial work on the turbulence chambers and it does blow water out the exhaust afterwards then that's where I'd look. I'd ask myself, "Where could water be leaking in the work that I did? What could I have done?" and, "Can I test it somehow or do I need to unbolt and have a look?" It sounds to me like you are questioning the O rings, so that's where to start.

Those copper washers that the previous poster mentioned sound like a real good place to look as well. His advice is very good.
BTW, you anneal copper by heating the washer with a propane torch until it is quite hot and the letting it cool slowly. But I'd rather see you use new soft ones. That's because old ones have already compressed and annealing isn't always the answer for things that have been compressed - especially when the washer fits between two (steel) surfaces that are harder than the copper. Or if you aren't familar with doing it.

I can't tell you how many times I've had to go back and reseat something that I thought I'd gotten right the first time. It happens.

What I am saying is that lets not start talking about cracked anything until we are satisfied that it isn't something simple and obvious and due to the work that was just done. Double check that first.
good luck, rScotty

 

[DLTTrekkers]

I am a mechanic, but unfortunately I do not know that engine. Which means I can't help with the engine-specific little tricks that apply to it.

But I'd like to back up a step. If it did not leak before you did the initial work on the turbulence chambers and it does blow water out the exhaust afterwards then that's where I'd look. I'd ask myself, "Where could water be leaking in the work that I did? What could I have done?" and, "Can I test it somehow or do I need to unbolt and have a look?" It sounds to me like you are questioning the O rings, so that's where to start.

Those copper washers that the previous poster mentioned sound like a real good place to look as well. His advice is very good.
BTW, you anneal copper by heating the washer with a propane torch until it is quite hot and the letting it cool slowly. But I'd rather see you use new soft ones. That's because old ones have already compressed and annealing isn't always the answer for things that have been compressed - especially when the washer fits between two (steel) surfaces that are harder than the copper. Or if you aren't familar with doing it.

I can't tell you how many times I've had to go back and reseat something that I thought I'd gotten right the first time. It happens.

What I am saying is that lets not start talking about cracked anything until we are satisfied that it isn't something simple and obvious and due to the work that was just done. Double check that first.
good luck, rScotty

Anneal copperwashers by heating it to a red couler and the dropping it in cold water ! Thats how I was taught .

 

[rScotty]

Anneal copperwashers by heating it to a red couler and the dropping it in cold water ! Thats how I was taught .

That will work just fine.
It is convenient - but not necessary - to quench copper quickly, it will get just as soft if you let it cool naturally.

I hope that the OP takes another look at the injector sealing. It is such a natural impulse to "over-diagnose", that mechanics have to train themselves to doublecheck their own work first. I used to have a repair shop and it was an everyday experience that someone would come in who had done something simple - like rebuild the carb or time the engine. And now it was running weirdly so they were convinced it was something exotic like a warped head or cracked block or slipped cam timing.

I tried to see those occasions an opportunity to do some teaching. The last thing in the world we want to do is discourage someone who is adventerous enough to do their own work.

We read a lot about how over a lifetime a college education is more than worth what it cost. But I suspect that the money & anxiety a person saves over a lifetime by doing their own simple repairs on home, auto, and appliances is just as valuable.

rScotty