My CK 35 review.

   / My CK 35 review. #1  

Rowdius

Silver Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2006
Messages
151
Location
Nugent, Texas
Tractor
Kioti CK35 With KL130 Loader
Well, this may be a bit premature, as that I've only put twelve hours on the machine in the three days I've owned it, but here is what I think so far.

Bad: The location of the fuel tank (and the folding cover, and to a lesser extent, the fel's hyd lines) make this machine much easier to refuel with a pump than a fuel can. In fact, it almost promises a spill, even with a funnel. Now that I have a way to unload full barrels of diesel, I'll start using bulk fuel again with my transfer pump, so this won't be a problem for long I guess.

The hood and the fuel tank location make it hard to power a transfer pump from the tractor's battery and fuel the tractor. I've not studied the angles of it all, so this might not be as bad as I think.

The fuel tank is a bit small. I firmly believe that a machine's fuel tank should get it through a full days work, which I consider 10-12 hours. At about .75 gallons an hour, it will barely get through a ten hour day. My calculations might be a little off. This is the first tank I've run through it, and only used the gauge, and did not actually stab the tank. (Still, I don't want to run the tank that low anyway.)

The level indicator on the bucket is not accurate. This is annoying, and once I get used to this particular loader, I'll probably never look at it again, but I'll still probably take a saw to it.

Less than 15 hours on the machine, and things are falling off. Nothing major, just that the glue holding the little placard on the shuttle shift lever gave way, and the knob on the FWD shifter came off. I've gone through and tightened everything I could think to put a wrench on, so this should no longer be a problem.

The front bucket is too small. The CK has more than enough power to have a little more capacity in the bucket as a standard feature. Perhaps not any wider, just a bit deeper.

The shuttle is not quite as smooth as I would like. It takes a little effort, and the action of having to lift the shifter kinda irks me. Not a major issue, especially on an economy machine.


Good:
This little machine has an amazing amount of power. Even without ballast on the rear, the loader is powerful, and the controls are quick and strong. With ballast, the machine is even more amazing for its size.

The telescoping ends on the 3 point hitch are nice, and make hooking up quite easy. The sway bars are easy to adjust, and the little bracket to keep the top link out of the way is quite handy! In fact, the entire three point hitch on this tractor is pretty darn good. I've hooked up almost all of my attachments(landscape rake, yanmar tiller, woven wire stretcher, shredder, middle buster, grubber) and everything was cake. I even hooked up the little 4' king kutter XB box blade, which has cat 0 spacing. I didn't get to hook up the PHD, as that my brother is borrowing it.

The operator's station is pretty roomy, even for a big guy like me. The integrated fel control is perfect (and one of the reasons I picked this machine over the branson.) The lift controls are easy to reach and to use, making fine work with things like rakes, blades, boxblades much easier on the hand.

The ROPS is pretty easy to fold down, and to put back up. Makes it a lot easier to get around the trees.


Conclusion: I do not regret buying this machine at all. Some of the faults are probably the dealer's, and some others are just personal preference. There are a few changes I'll end up making, like welding some chain hooks on the bucket, along with the bracket that'll hold my pallet forks (and later, brush rake) in place.

I'll most more of this review after I reach and finish the 50 hour service.
 
   / My CK 35 review. #2  
It's good to see you are having an overall positive experience with your tractor. I agree that most of the small things seem to be from dealer prep like loose knobs and shifters.

I wonder if lowering the working rpms a few hundred would save a little more gas. I have just a 21hp CK20 but will go 16-24hrs (time not engine hours) on a full tank depending on the work.

As far as the level indicator, I bet you could get the bucket flat with a level and then use a hack saw to make the level indicator correct. If the rod is sticking out through the tube, you can cut off the extra. If the rod is too far inside the tube, you can probably cut the tube so that it is flush with the rod. Of course this is assuming you have the same level indicator that I do.
 
   / My CK 35 review. #3  
Interesting, the level indicator on my CK30 was "on". The one on the 40 disapears into the tube before it is level. With only 4 hrs on the machine, i am still learning.
I agree on the depth of the bucket. If the 35 has quick disconnect i would suggest looking around for a different brand. I put a Bush Hog on mine & it is almost twice as deep as the Kioti bucket.
The three point is thankfullty the same & like you i really like the ease of use. My bud has a new "other color" tractor & hooking up his implements is almost impossible without 2 people.
It is a good idea to post a review, so i'll shut up now & work the tractor for a few hrs before posting my own.
Be safe on that new machine.......!

RD
 
   / My CK 35 review.
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Dmace said:
I wonder if lowering the working rpms a few hundred would save a little more gas. I have just a 21hp CK20 but will go 16-24hrs (time not engine hours) on a full tank depending on the work.

I'm sure it would, especially if I were just doing some light work. This tank was spent doing about quite a bit of heavy loader work (very rarely without a load) and then shredding some heavy, tall, damp weeds. My next project involves a lot of little things, like moving fencing materials to a better place, and putting alot of things on pallets for when I get the forks, so we should have an indication of how far a tank will go doing 'light duty.' I figure somewhere between the two might be a good average.


As far as the level indicator, I bet you could get the bucket flat with a level and then use a hack saw to make the level indicator correct. If the rod is sticking out through the tube, you can cut off the extra. If the rod is too far inside the tube, you can probably cut the tube so that it is flush with the rod. Of course this is assuming you have the same level indicator that I do.

Yeah, I'm more than likely taking a saw to it.

Thanks for the words!
 
   / My CK 35 review. #5  
Rowdius said:
The shuttle is not quite as smooth as I would like. It takes a little effort, and the action of having to lift the shifter kinda irks me. Not a major issue, especially on an economy machine.
QUOTE]

When I was test driving, I thought the same thing with the shuttle. I asked the dealer about it and he had his mechanic look at it. The next time I came out, he shifted a lot smoother. Sounds, again, like maybe dealer prep.
 
   / My CK 35 review. #6  
The shifters all tend to get much smoother after some use.
Depends on what you are doing so it's hard to put an hr amount on it.
Loose things just tend to happen, that's the bad about a new machine.
If the dealer does the first service everything should be tight after that.
You'll still have to "touch them up" but normally that first re-tightening takes care of it.
One thing everyone needs to check often...loader bolt torque.
We torque and loctite all of ours to spec before they leave the shop.
BUT, they still need retorqued from time to time depending on the amount of loader work you do.

I'm glad overall you are happy with your CK35.....they are a little hotrod of a tractor.

BTI
 
 
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