Buying Advice I think this is a DK35se Is it a good deal?

[cqaigy2]

Do you own one???Wrong? Says you.

I own a small one. I was in the market for a kubota, i still think they make one of the best tractors....but im not rich and i needed something that can get around well on hillside woods. I borrowed a friends kubota and my wife caught me maneuvering with the backhoe extended out to the side trying to keep it upright and said to knock it off and get something that can handle rough sloped terrain. Something that won't fall over if you drop it into a hole. So i looked for a tractor i could extend the wheel base etc. Somebody on tractorbynet suggested looking at a Power Trac. My first thought was it's not a tractor and im not interested. I grew up on tractors, real ones used for farming and there isn't anyway that PT golf cart would work. I did a bunch a research and finally decided to risk it. Now i know i take mine places there is no way in heck i'd drive a tractor, maybe log skidder but not a tractor. It's articulated so turn very tight, maintains contact with the ground because the "tubs" the wheels are on tilt side to side and up and down. I mostly use the "brushhog" and bucket. I can dig and mow better and faster then my buddy with the kubota. But it's no tractor and no way would i get one to plow or use other ground engagement implement. Im really glad i pulled the trigger cause it works well for me.

 

[MossRoad]

All right folks... this is a Kioti discussion, not a Power Trac discussion.... or argument as it may be leaning towards. As the owner of a Power Trac PT425 for the past 11 years all I will say is don't knock it until you try it. If you're interested, go over to the Power Trac forum here on TBN and check them out or click on my little animated Power Trac and check out some of my videos.

As for the original poster, he mentioned cleaning up 8 acres, which a Power Trac would excel over a comparable conventional tractor, but he also them mentioned "and then attempt to farm a little ", which, to me, may mean plowing furrows in the soil and cutting hay, which the Power Trac sucks at. I guess it all depends on your version of what "and then attempt to farm a little" really means.

Also, the subject of dealers came up. While Kioti dealers may be few and far between, there are ZERO Power Trac dealers... they are factory direct ONLY. So, if you are not prepared to work on them yourself or you do not have a trusted equipment mechanic, seek something else.

Look, the Kioti line of tractors are tough, well built machines. However, just as with any other machine, they all have their plusses and minusses. The first thing someone that wants to buy a tractor should do is identify the chores that they need to accomplish. That is the most important thing. Then you have to find machines that are capable of doing those chores, Some will do most of the chores well, some will do some of the chores exceptionally well, but nothing will do all of your chores exceptionally well... you may need multiple machines. Then you have to look at your budget and decide if you can afford the machine of your dreams, or if you will have to compromise, downsize your chores, rent larger machines, etc....

For us, the decision we made was to buy a large, 50 PTO tractor/loader to get the huge chores knocked out, then downsize to our Power Trac PT425 for maintenance tasks. Rental of large equipment for large tasks is also a good option rather than purchasing large equipment then trying to sell it later.

Anyhow, the OP needs to make that chore checklist, go to multiple brand dealers and get some seat time in as many different makes and models as feasably possible and talk to owners of his top 5 list to get their thoughts before writing a check he may regret later. Especially if he is inexperienced.

That's just my 2 cents worth.

 

[IslandTractor]

MossRoad nailed it. Great summary.

 

[gumshu]

Being a complete novice, I am not aware of the kinds of things that can be attached to a tractor.... that grapple would be a massive time saver. I plan on cutting the large, unwanted trees into 4' segments and then stacking them to dry (I will cut them in half and split them in the future) and removing all of the honeysuckle and privet weed shrubs. The front loader would work, but I can tell it would be awkward and somewhat inefficient in getting a hold on the brush.

Anyway, it was a little late to call the Craigslist guy yesterday, I'll try today. He is a little far away (60 miles each way).... not sure how to work the logistics if I go for it. Maybe he'll have an idea.

So what, very generally, does a grapple cost (for a tractor of this size)?

Kelton

You asked about grapple cost... all depends on the size. The popular ones on this forum are Wildcat and North American Implements. I bought the 60" North American Implements for just over $900 plus shipping. The 48" Wildcat was the same price and weight. I also bought the Construction Attachments 3rd function "Direct Fit Kit." That will run about $750 plus shipping. This 3rd function kit was made for the Bobcat CT335 which I believe is the same as the DK35. Just check with a dealer to make sure the Banjo Bolts on the "Power Beyond" tube (loader valve & tank sides) are the same as on the CT335... 18MM. I preferred the Construction Attachments Kit over the WR Long kit as it has a Scorpion Control joystick handle, nicer hydraulic valve and better setup design. Construction Attachments also has excellent customer service. After getting it all together, the operation is very smooth.

 

[IslandTractor]

You asked about grapple cost... all depends on the size. The popular ones on this forum are Wildcat and North American Implements. I bought the 60" North American Implements for just over $900 plus shipping. The 48" Wildcat was the same price and weight. I also bought the Construction Attachments 3rd function "Direct Fit Kit." That will run about $750 plus shipping. This 3rd function kit was made for the Bobcat CT335 which I believe is the same as the DK35. Just check with a dealer to make sure the Banjo Bolts on the "Power Beyond" tube (loader valve & tank sides) are the same as on the CT335... 18MM. I preferred the Construction Attachments Kit over the WR Long kit as it has a Scorpion Control joystick handle, nicer hydraulic valve and better setup design. Construction Attachments also has excellent customer service. After getting it all together, the operation is very smooth.

The third function kit is an option but not necessary for a Kioti DK as the rear remote can be used to control the grapple. I used rear remotes on my first tractor and have a WRLong diverter now. I actually preferred the rear remote set up and would personally not fork over extra bucks for a third function again. Anyone with existing rear remotes should at least try that method as the cost of lines and fittings is small and they can all be reused as part of a third function if you decide to "upgrade".

 

[k0ua]

The third function kit is an option but not necessary for a Kioti DK as the rear remote can be used to control the grapple. I used rear remotes on my first tractor and have a WRLong diverter now. I actually preferred the rear remote set up and would personally not fork over extra bucks for a third function again. Anyone with existing rear remotes should at least try that method as the cost of lines and fittings is small and they can all be reused as part of a third function if you decide to "upgrade".

Island, is it because with the rear remote you can "feather" the grapple closing speed? and with the electric over hydraulic true 3rd function you cannot? I plan to get a grapple someday.. and considered that I would hook it up with the rear remote at least at first to save $750.

James K0UA

 

[IslandTractor]

Island, is it because with the rear remote you can "feather" the grapple closing speed? and with the electric over hydraulic true 3rd function you cannot? I plan to get a grapple someday.. and considered that I would hook it up with the rear remote at least at first to save $750.

James K0UA

You do have essentially the same control with either. You can feather the rear remote but you can just as easily do the same with the FEL joystick.

The feature I don't like as well with the diverter valve is that when working fast it is easy to get out of synch and have the button pushed when you don't want it and vice versa. I find not infrequently that I open the grapple when I really wanted to just reposition the bucket etc. Never an issue with the rear remote as you drop your hand off the FEL joystick to touch the remote lever. It would not be an issue with a true third function valve but I'm too cheap for one of those.

 

[gumshu]

The third function kit is an option but not necessary for a Kioti DK as the rear remote can be used to control the grapple. I used rear remotes on my first tractor and have a WRLong diverter now. I actually preferred the rear remote set up and would personally not fork over extra bucks for a third function again. Anyone with existing rear remotes should at least try that method as the cost of lines and fittings is small and they can all be reused as part of a third function if you decide to "upgrade".

I thought about using the rear remotes on mine, but decided that I wanted a true third function, and not a diverter style setup. I like having the instant button access/functionality and not having to go from lever to joystick to control the jaws. It was more money, but I do like the convenience.

 

[J_J]

k0ua ,

Read my post #9.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...w-3rd-function-grapple-valve.html#post2992961

Usually the operations of the FEL and the grapple don't cause any trouble, as long as you know.

 

[IslandTractor]

I thought about using the rear remotes on mine, but decided that I wanted a true third function, not a diverter. I like having the instant button access/functionality and not having to go from lever to joystick to control the jaws. It was more money, but I do like the convenience.

I'd probably like the true third function but as the cost is equivalent to many implements, I've always seemed to go for the extra implement rather than upgrade the valve. Right now there is a post hole digger, a quick coupler for my backhoe and a hydraulic conversion kit for the backhoe thumb that are all higher on my wish list. The main reason I always seem to advocate for just using the rear remotes is that it fees up money for implements as well as doing a perfectly fine job of running the grapple. Kind of similar to just using a manual tranny on a car and applying the extra cost for an automatic transmission upgrade to buy other extra options instead.